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  #1  
Old 05-08-2011, 06:33 AM
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Talking so i removed my engine from my car need tips rebuilding it! PLEASE :D

I took the bum engine out of my 82 300 SD and cannot figure out how to get the pre chambers out I can get the retainer out very easily but the pre chamber is really in there any tips? also what kind of bit do I need to remove the head with and is there any special tools I need?

unrelated but is there any way to bore out the injectors for more fuel delivery?



Last edited by pmally; 05-08-2011 at 06:48 AM. Reason: pictures
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  #2  
Old 05-08-2011, 08:32 AM
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I took an old injector and welded the rod and "hammer" from one of those "puller" tools to it to pull em out.
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Old 05-08-2011, 09:01 AM
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Now there's the face of a happy chap!

Have you seen this for the pre-chamber tools?

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617PreChamberTools

Also more fuel? I assume you equate more fuel with more power? That could be, under certain circumstances, but I think you are more likely to produce more soot! The first thing I would do is check your timing:-

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TimingChainStretch

Good luck!
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  #4  
Old 05-08-2011, 10:54 AM
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Start by getting the factory service manual for your car/engine. Easy to find on CD.
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  #5  
Old 05-08-2011, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
I took an old injector and welded the rod and "hammer" from one of those "puller" tools to it to pull em out.
What Injector did you use?

On the 617 Engines the Prechembar is threaded for m22X1.0 and as is the Prechamber Puller.

A 617 Injector is threaded on the out side for M24x2.0 so that is way too big.
If you take apart the Injector the threaded area on the upper body where the Nut screws onto is M22x1.5. So the 22mm is correct but the 1.5 pitch of the threads is not.

If he follows your instructions he could damage the threads inside of his Prechamber.
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  #6  
Old 05-08-2011, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Now there's the face of a happy chap!

Have you seen this for the pre-chamber tools?

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617PreChamberTools

Also more fuel? I assume you equate more fuel with more power? That could be, under certain circumstances, but I think you are more likely to produce more soot! The first thing I would do is check your timing:-

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TimingChainStretch

Good luck!


"All tools worked exceptionally well and some of the ideas came off this site from previous threads, however I was not able to find pics (that does not mean they are not there). The entire job after the tools were made took roughly 4 hours and went very smoothly. The only hitch was with the collars, 2 of them came out easily with the homemade tool, the remaining 3 had to be loosened with a hammer and chisel because the collar started to break apart using the tool. During assembly the tool worked like a charm.
Feel free to PM me if any additional details are needed."

The Socket to remove the Prechamber rings needs something to lock it into the Ring so it does not pop up.
The homemade Ring Remal Tool Worked Exceptionally well only on removal ov 2 of the Rings. After that the Tool Failed.
He tells you and shows you the results with; in the first Pic.

In the other 2 pics of homemade Prechamber Tools both tools are made so that they have a screw that locks them into the prechamber Ring and will not jump out of the Slot in the Prechamber Retaining Ring.
Attached Thumbnails
so i removed my engine from my car need tips rebuilding it! PLEASE :D-prechamber-rings-buggered-2.jpg   so i removed my engine from my car need tips rebuilding it! PLEASE :D-prechamber-my-tool.jpg   so i removed my engine from my car need tips rebuilding it! PLEASE :D-prechamber-tools-2.jpg  
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Last edited by Diesel911; 05-08-2011 at 12:26 PM.
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  #7  
Old 05-08-2011, 12:39 PM
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Leave the Prechambers in the Head. Clean the surface and see if the head needs to be resurfaced.
If it does not need to be resurfaced there is not much need to remove the Prechambers.

If the Pistons cannot be reused the cost of the rebuild shoots up. The same with the Exhaust Valves.
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  #8  
Old 05-08-2011, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
"All tools worked exceptionally well and some of the ideas came off this site from previous threads, however I was not able to find pics (that does not mean they are not there). The entire job after the tools were made took roughly 4 hours and went very smoothly. The only hitch was with the collars, 2 of them came out easily with the homemade tool, the remaining 3 had to be loosened with a hammer and chisel because the collar started to break apart using the tool. During assembly the tool worked like a charm.
Feel free to PM me if any additional details are needed."

The Socket to remove the Prechamber rings needs something to lock it into the Ring so it does not pop up.
The homemade Ring Remal Tool Worked Exceptionally well only on removal ov 2 of the Rings. After that the Tool Failed.
He tells you and shows you the results with; in the first Pic.

In the other 2 pics of homemade Prechamber Tools both tools are made so that they have a screw that locks them into the prechamber Ring and will not jump out of the Slot in the Prechamber Retaining Ring.
Sorry I've never used this thread - I assumed it was OK as it was officially approved (i.e. on the wiki) - if you're being really picky I did ask if he had seen it and I didn't specifically recommend it!

When I looked at the cost of the special tools for this job - even at Dutch labour rates - it worked out cheaper to pay someone to remove and reinstall the pre-chambers as part of a machining job. (As you know) The pre-chambers need to be removed in order to skim the head.
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1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #9  
Old 05-08-2011, 02:02 PM
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I'll have to look to see what I used to make the prechamber puller. I was thinking it was an old injector but it may not be.
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  #10  
Old 05-08-2011, 03:33 PM
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yeah im just gonna leave thoes in I have a block thats already been completely rebuilt so i just gotta piece things together um what bit do I need to take off the head?
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  #11  
Old 05-08-2011, 03:51 PM
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  #12  
Old 05-10-2011, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
I'll have to look to see what I used to make the prechamber puller. I was thinking it was an old injector but it may not be.
Well here is what is odd. It depends on what Engine you have and if it has the Angled Prechambers (that uses the Splined Prechamber Collars).
In the Angle Injection Prechambers the Injectors screw into the Prechamber. This means that you could use an old Injector to make the tool from. Those prechambers have 22mmx1.5 Threads inside of them for the Prechamber Puller.

If you have a 617 the inside of the prechambers is threaded different and is 22mmx1.0. So there is no part of the Injector that will fit them.

In the pic of the Factory made Prechamber Puller you can see the 2 different threaded ends.

If you have a 635,616, or 617 Engine you use the end or the Prechamber Puller that is 22mmx1.0; if you have the Angle Injection Prechambers you use the 22mmx1.5 end of the puller.
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so i removed my engine from my car need tips rebuilding it! PLEASE :D-prechamber-puller.jpg  
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  #13  
Old 05-10-2011, 09:38 PM
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The bit You need to remove the head is called a xzn? or triple square. I think it is a 12mm. They do not seem to be an in stock item at most box stores.
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  #14  
Old 05-11-2011, 10:55 AM
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they are on the shelf at orilies and autozone in a 4 bit pack.
you do not want torx or spline bits, you want TRIPPLE SQUARE/XZN and I'm pretty sure it's 12mm too.
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  #15  
Old 05-11-2011, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
they are on the shelf at orilies and autozone in a 4 bit pack.
you do not want torx or spline bits, you want TRIPPLE SQUARE/XZN and I'm pretty sure it's 12mm too.
Yep M12

Daft W123 300D nut and bolts sizes

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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