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#16
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From my link:
Point Seven Fill every space inside the engine with lubricating oil or diesel fuel (which is easier to work with). Replace the drain plug and fill the crank case with the oil. At the same time, pour oil into the carburetor (if it has one) or air intake system until it flows out of each spark plug hole thereby displacing the water. Now, with plugs or injectors removed, turn the engine over by hand using a wrench or bar (or with a borrowed starter). Turn the engine over several times to distribute the oil. Refill the cylinders and carburetor to overflowing. Now you can wait for a mechanic, or if you have the mechanical inclination to do the work yourself, then proceed with the next set of steps. The point of filling with diesel is to displace the water from every little crack and crevice. You do not try to start it at any point with diesel in the crankcase or turn it over if compression can occur. If you followed the steps on step four the starter and alternator were removed. |
#17
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No petroleum product will displace water. All oils float on water,not the other way around so the water will always stay in small spaces such as around piston rings.You have to get it running and the sooner the better.With diesels in boats when we raised a sinker 2 techs stayed on the job until they had both engines running or if it took longer than they could work 2more guys stepped in.The tough part of really preventing all damage is that it is essential to run the engines long enough and hard enough to get the oil up to operating temperature and keep it there for at least a few hours to drive the moisture out of every nook and cranny, if that is not done some damage will be done,may not show up right away,little things like rust pits in the area of the crank seal areas on the crank. with a boat it was not too tough to jury rig stuff enough to get it in gear and in some case actually get under way with,i have no idea how you could do that with a car as you pretty much cannot drive it and you will never get the oil temp up running in a no load condition.
Don
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Red Green "This is only temporary,Unless it works!" 97 E300D 157000 miles 87 300TD ?141k? miles |
#18
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Answer
Quote:
You must watch the temperature every second... .
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#19
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yeah. I said get it running ASAP. The diesel will displace the water long enough to buy some time.
Did you guys even read the link? Point Seven Fill every space inside the engine with lubricating oil or diesel fuel (which is easier to work with). here it is again so you don't have to search http://www.boatus.com/hurricanes/pickle.asp sinking is common. There are established procedures. arguing is like arguing with the service manual, good luck with that. |
#20
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WATER DAMAGE
Quote:
The water was up to the lower rim of the vehicle. The remote did not work and I could not enter the vehicle. The vehicle would not start at first. It finally started and water shot out of the exhaust. The vehicle locked and would not start and the display screen was red with ABS and battery messages. My insurance carrier is covering the repairs under the comprehensive coverage with a $500.00 deductible. I have a rental car for thirty days direct bill to insurance carrier. My vehicle has been in the shop for over sixty days. The wiring harness was delivered from the factory in Germany in about six weeks. The dealer removed the seats, the flooring and the dome to replace all the wiring. The dealer told me that the dashboard was removed earlier this week. The work has been limited to replacing the wiring in the vehicle. The dealer does not see any reason at this time to replace the battery or the oil. The dealer indicated it would be another two or three weeks before the dealer will be repaired, |
#21
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As above, change all the fluids. Don't forget the dump and replace trans fluid, rear end fluid etc. Also, don't neglect the tie rods, or anything else that might need to be greased. (wheel bearings, axles the list goes one and on)
Rice works ok, dump a 10 pound bag of it in and let it sit. spray all the electronic down with a good non residue cleaner. This is the worst part. Most insurance companies will total a car if water gets as high as the dash due to the electrical issues. I've been though this myself and even after you think you have fixed everything your going to find more... Also put a dehumidifier inside the car, anything you can do to get that water out. |
#22
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Quote:
The water level was above the exhaust during the night. When I was the vehicle the first time in the morning the level was just above the lower part of the wheels. The interior the water was at the lower door level and just above the seat tracks. The dealer ordered new carpets from the factory. |
#23
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#24
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WATER DAMAGE
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When the vehicle was removed from the water. The screen displayed ABS and battery errors. Then the vehilce locked and would not start for about an hour. The defroster stopped working. I was unable to drive in distance without the windsheild fogging up. The total repair time may be over three months. |
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