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Fuel Lines by the head
I have a 1981 300SD.
I had a line by the fuel injectors leaking. It's where they go from one injector to the next. I took the lines off and put new lines on. It's leaking again. I don't know if there is a certain type of line I need to get. Do I need to use a clamp to put these lines on? Is this a common problem on these? Also, I cannot get the compressor to kick on for the AC. I've tried to gas it up and it won't kick on at all. This is after I evacuated the system. I have checked to make sure there is power to the compressor, the plugs are making contact and that the fuses are working. Is there anything else I can do to try to make this thing work? |
#2
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There are actually two types of hose - one for most parts of the world and one for (colder?) parts of the world. I've had a look at "buy parts" above and it looks like they are no longer stocked...
...and I can't find them on the Febi website either... Perhaps you should ring or mail the sponsors of this site? These are "just" over flow pipes that don't need any clamps.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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The jumper lines I use are 3.2mm ID braided stuff. Comes by the meter, as mentioned, no clamp.
Inspect the nipple carefully for any nicks.
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83 SD 84 CD |
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Injector Return Line
Here are a couple threads on the Injector Return Line.
Injector Return Line This one is for the 60x engine, but same size line What diameter fuel hose is used on the fuel injector return lines of an OM603? You want to very careful with the nipples, be gentle with them. sometimes the old hose pulls right off, and sometimes it will stick and rip off and a piece will stick of the nipple. using a knife to cut it can knick the nipple and possibly cause it to weep fuel. as far as I know, there is no fix for this. when a piece does stick, I use a small pair of pliers and grab the side of the hose w/o touching the nipple. the hose will bunch up and then pull it off. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works Last edited by charmalu; 07-18-2011 at 09:18 AM. |
#5
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The hose is not that rare. It is used on many different motors including VW, heck even some of the London taxis have it. Anything that used the Bosch injectors.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#6
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If you are in the US NAPA, the Mercedes and VW Dealers sell the Injector Fuel Return Line/Hose.
If the Nipples that the Hose attaches to on the Injectors is nicked due to using a Knife or careless use of a Screwdriver to remove the Fuel Hoses they can leak. Once in a while the Nipples themselves become loose as they are wedged/crimped in place. If that happens the upper part of the Injector needs to be replaced and because that changes the opening pressure the Injector should be pop tested to set the pressure. One Member who has one Nipples loose cut the Nipple off and welded over the Hole. He put that Injector in the #5 position on his 617 that only needed one Fuel Return Hose coming off of it.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#7
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1) Use a blow torch to heat the hose/barb gently. It will lift off real easy. Or when the engine is warm.
2) If one barb broke and you are stuck then move it to the last one. Shove a piece of plastic in and JB weld it. You one need one barb there. 3) Plenty of return lines for sale.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
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Quote:
...why have they disappeared from Fastlane then? (Or is it my fantastic ability to use the catalogue?)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#9
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Answer
Quote:
6050780581 diesel Looped Fuel Return Hose, one meter 6050780581 diesel Looped Fuel Return Hose, one meter .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
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