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  #16  
Old 05-12-2011, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Sometimes I just "arrive" at conclusions. (And sometimes I conduct continuity checks prior to arrival. You should give that a shot.)

Just curious, what type of warning does a wire issue right before it breaks from one flex too many?
Where I work at it normally give a breaker open or intermitent failure, slow operation for no reason, have to hit the switch multiple times for operation.

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  #17  
Old 05-12-2011, 07:33 AM
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I am not sure soaking the switch in contact cleaner will get you the results you want.
To clean the switch unsnap the cover and remove the contacts and roller balls. The contacts get full of crumbs and old soda and whatever has been spilled on the console over the years. I use emery cloth to clean the contacts.
If that doesn't straighten you out and you need to go into the door panel, my experience has been that the motors will sometimes seize in the spring from a combination of old grease and water leaking past the window seals and causing corrosion.
I have never personally experienced a "dead" window motor. The seemingly dead motors I have worked on just needed to be disassembled, and the bushing at the tail of the motor freed up and lubricated with lithium grease.
I am constantly amazed at how many repairs can be done on the old benzes with dis assembly cleaning and reassembly.
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  #18  
Old 05-12-2011, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by buffa98 View Post
Tx76513-I have a new lift motor already in the door. Dealer did that. Thanks for the info on how to pull console out.

TangoFox,Vstech- Will try that when i get home.

Deisel911-ashedd- The first thing I will do is change a switch. I seems to be the quickest and easiest to check.

Will report back this evening. Hopefully with good news.
When re-assembling, watch the fader switch connector -it like to come loose.
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  #19  
Old 05-12-2011, 10:06 AM
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fortunately, the door panes are easy to remove on these cars. If they just replaced that motor, maybe they failed to properly connect the wiring permanently in the door or something. Certainly dealers have been guilty of far worse, worth checking their work

Id pull the panel, apply direct power as you say, then work my way through the wiring.
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  #20  
Old 05-12-2011, 11:53 AM
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Turn on the ignition (engine off) and the dome light. Operate the offending window. If the light dims, the switch and motor continuity are good. If not, some part of the circuit is open. I had a problem with the RF window on my '83- it was intermittent and fortunately stuck closed. I removed the motor, all that was wrong was one of the bearings was dry and seized. Lubed it up, along with the gears, and it works like new.
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  #21  
Old 05-15-2011, 07:04 PM
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Well the verdict is it is the lift motor. Dead short across it. I am waiting for one to come in. Should have it back together tommorrow!!
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  #22  
Old 05-15-2011, 08:25 PM
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I wouldn't condemn it until you take it apart and inspect it. These are very simple permanent magnet motors. If the magnets have come loose or you see the commutator is NG then it's junk, but it only takes a couple minutes to look. If its OK, you have a spare motor for another window.

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