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  #1  
Old 05-11-2011, 01:01 PM
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616.916 engine out of a 1976 240D

Now that I have the engine pulled, cleaned up and on an engine stand what do yall suggest I do to the engine before I install it.
This is a 616.916 engine out of a 76 240D than ran great when removed a couple months ago.
I would like to do whatever I can while the engine is out that will benefit me and it in the long run.
Per the paper work that came with the car I think it is a low mileage engine 130K miles but who knows. I removed the engine because of major rust to the body, car spent its whole life on beach side.
The lobes on the cam shaft do have some very small grooves in it, but the darn thing ran great for the 2 years I drove the car before pulling the engine, I would think it has a long life ahead of its self.
The engine did not burn any engine oil between oil changes.

Adjust valves
New oil pan gasket
Rebuild vacuumed pump
Should I replace the intake & exhaust gasket or leave it alone?
I was thinking vale stem seals maybe

engine swap 1976 240D

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1976 240D parts car
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  #2  
Old 05-11-2011, 01:40 PM
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Timing chain elongation

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TimingChainStretch

If you are looking for extra work then how about:-

Remove the prechambers and clean them out - apparently they get gunked up over time.

Refurbish your starter motor

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617StarterRebuild

Refurbish your alternator

Refreshing the alternator on an OM617

Front crankshaft seal if there is any evidence what so ever that it has leaked (much easier to reach it now!)

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617CrankshaftSeal

Replace your oil cooler lines for the automatic transmission and engine if you have them.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #3  
Old 05-11-2011, 01:53 PM
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Wow I asked and I got
Thank you for the info.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Timing chain elongation I have 0 strech on the chain & I will check this out

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TimingChainStretch

If you are looking for extra work then how about:-

Remove the prechambers and clean them out - apparently they get gunked up over time. I will check this out

Refurbish your starter motor replaced last year

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617StarterRebuild

Refurbish your alternator yes thank you

Refreshing the alternator on an OM617

Front crankshaft seal if there is any evidence what so ever that it has leaked (much easier to reach it now!) I will check this out thanks

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617CrankshaftSeal

Replace your oil cooler lines for the automatic transmission and engine if you have them.
oil cooler lines YES in the works
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  #4  
Old 05-11-2011, 03:28 PM
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Oh yeah I forgot to say... whilst you've got the coolant drained tackle the thermostat housing. You often get corrosion on this bit - the bolts get welded / corroded into place. This is also a 'much easier now' job.

Same goes for the vacuum pump (but you have already said you're looking into that).

And replace your engine mounts with new ones when you fit the engine!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #5  
Old 05-11-2011, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Oh yeah I forgot to say... whilst you've got the coolant drained tackle the thermostat housing. You often get corrosion on this bit - the bolts get welded / corroded into place. This is also a 'much easier now' job.
I have all the parts off and cleaned up they are still in good shape. I also have a 1 year old 3 row recored rad to go with the engine.
Same goes for the vacuum pump (but you have already said you're looking into that).

And replace your engine mounts with new ones when you fit the engine! Yes
Should I replace the intake & exhaust gasket or leave it alone? I did not remove this yet.
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  #6  
Old 05-11-2011, 06:44 PM
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If you don't mind me asking how big a job was pulling the motor? I have the same job, in my furutre.
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  #7  
Old 05-11-2011, 06:54 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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I guess I would have recommended running a compression test before pulling it out of the car. If it is good I would do nothing more than superficial stuff as mentioned above. It is very hard to tell without documentation how many miles a benz has on it.

Tom
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #8  
Old 05-11-2011, 09:50 PM
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Change the Oil in the Fuel Injection Pump. If there is no plug to drain they Oil I have read you need to uses something with a tube (Turkey Baster with some skinny tubing attached?) to go in through the Oil Fill hole and suck out the Oil.

There should be some info on that as I read it here on the forum.
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  #9  
Old 05-12-2011, 03:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billhard View Post
If you don't mind me asking how big a job was pulling the motor? I have the same job, in my furutre.
Take a look here for an OM617 - it is just a bit heavier than an OM616!

How I took out my 1981 W123 300D (euro) non-turbo engine
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #10  
Old 05-12-2011, 03:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kpmurphy View Post
Should I replace the intake & exhaust gasket or leave it alone? I did not remove this yet.
I don't really consider this to be a big deal one way of the other it isn't such a pain to change in the car as it would be with a turbo I guess... however, you sound like you are probably about as fussy about stuff as me so why not take a look? If you do take it off though I'd wire brush the exhaust manifold clean and put on some high temperature paint and make it look nice:-

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #11  
Old 05-12-2011, 03:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
I guess I would have recommended running a compression test before pulling it out of the car. If it is good I would do nothing more than superficial stuff as mentioned above. It is very hard to tell without documentation how many miles a benz has on it.

Tom
X2

But seeing as you can't do that now - well it isn't impossible but it is a fuss - how about doing a leak down test?

That would give you more information about the health of the engine anyway.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #12  
Old 05-12-2011, 03:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Change the Oil in the Fuel Injection Pump. If there is no plug to drain they Oil I have read you need to uses something with a tube (Turkey Baster with some skinny tubing attached?) to go in through the Oil Fill hole and suck out the Oil.

There should be some info on that as I read it here on the forum.
Good one Diesel911

That has reminded me about the intermediate shaft play...

When you remove the vacuum pump (as planned) check the end play of the intermediate shaft and see if it is loose.

This is the bit on these engines that shuttles back and forth (with wear) and then wrecks vacuum pumps.

You probably won't be able to make a really good measurement of this play (use a DTI) with the injector pump still on but if it is dangerously loose you should be able to detect it.

However, if you are going to remove the injector pump...




A word of warning:- It is dangerous asking me about what "needs" to be done - I started with a front end rebuild on my car a year ago and now I've almost done every job there is to do on the car... engine rebuild, transmission, rebuild, steering box, steering pump, paint... blah blah blah
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 05-12-2011, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
A word of warning:- It is dangerous asking me about what "needs" to be done - I started with a front end rebuild on my car a year ago and now I've almost done every job there is to do on the car... engine rebuild, transmission, rebuild, steering box, steering pump, paint... blah blah blah
I am not even sure what car I am going to put this engine in. but would like to have it ready. More than likely it will go in the 76 240D I would love to install it in the 70 220D that is an auto right now, not everything from the 76 is going to fit on the 70 talking about the cluch peddel assembely, i need to track the parts down.

On the 76 I am going to do what you are talking about above, including A/C if I can last this summer with out A/C.
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  #14  
Old 05-12-2011, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billhard View Post
If you don't mind me asking how big a job was pulling the motor? I have the same job, in my furutre.

engine swap 1976 240D

I did the hole thing by my self not by choice, it was a job the thred above is pulling the engine & front sub frame I am painting the subframe shortley I do not want it to rust away anytime soon.
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  #15  
Old 05-12-2011, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Good one Diesel911

That has reminded me about the intermediate shaft play...

When you remove the vacuum pump (as planned) check the end play of the intermediate shaft and see if it is loose.

This is the bit on these engines that shuttles back and forth (with wear) and then wrecks vacuum pumps.

You probably won't be able to make a really good measurement of this play (use a DTI) with the injector pump still on but if it is dangerously loose you should be able to detect it.

However, if you are going to remove the injector pump...




A word of warning:- It is dangerous asking me about what "needs" to be done - I started with a front end rebuild on my car a year ago and now I've almost done every job there is to do on the car... engine rebuild, transmission, rebuild, steering box, steering pump, paint... blah blah blah
New Vacuum Pump Ruined due to too much Timer Shaft End Play (the title from my notes).
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=258062&highlight=vacuum

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