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  #16  
Old 05-15-2011, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Oh yes don't leave them out in the cold...
I don't think they mind the cold much, but getting wet and dirty is bad for them.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
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  #17  
Old 05-15-2011, 08:07 PM
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I think the strips are mostly a gimmick for the Jiffy Lube shops. They can bring back the strip to show a customer "scientifically" how grotty their brake fluid is.
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  #18  
Old 05-16-2011, 03:12 AM
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I forgot to say brake fluid moisture is checked as standard during the yearly (government) checks in Germany and the Netherlands - I think they do it too in the UK as well. I don't think they use bits of paper anymore though. They probably have some overly priced scientifically approved space age probe thingy... that costs the price of a small house every year to calibrate... that's progress in case you didn't know.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #20  
Old 05-16-2011, 12:31 PM
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FWIW, I flush every two years, brake fluid is cheap, components are expensive - my two cents -
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  #21  
Old 05-16-2011, 09:07 PM
vstech's Avatar
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... I made the mistake of flushing the fluid in my SD... with my brake pedal... it's now needing a master cylinder. won't hold brake at a stop light...
be sure and use a power bleeder on old master cylinders. pedal method will kill the seals on it and require replacement of an otherwise good MC...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #22  
Old 05-17-2011, 03:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
... I made the mistake of flushing the fluid in my SD... with my brake pedal... it's now needing a master cylinder. won't hold brake at a stop light...
be sure and use a power bleeder on old master cylinders. pedal method will kill the seals on it and require replacement of an otherwise good MC...
That's a shame - the FSM states that you should pump the pedal a few times... are you sure the master cylinder is shot and not just full of a stubborn bit of air? (You probably are - I'll shut up)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #23  
Old 05-17-2011, 09:41 AM
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When pumping the pedal, you shouldn't go beyond the normal pedal position. That causes the master cylinder to go beyond the "used" area and onto the often times corroded part. That's what damages the seals. Some folks put a brick or a block of wood under the pedal to make sure they don't depress it more than normal.
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  #24  
Old 05-17-2011, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
When pumping the pedal, you shouldn't go beyond the normal pedal position. That causes the master cylinder to go beyond the "used" area and onto the often times corroded part. That's what damages the seals. Some folks put a brick or a block of wood under the pedal to make sure they don't depress it more than normal.
Exactly......and I have written about how to avoid this in a thread lately....I think the one where the woman was doing the work on her brakes...
The responsibility is on the person down at the bleeder valve...
If that person just lets out a small amount and closes the bleeder...then the person or machine pressing the brake pedal has no way to go too far with the travel.... It takes more squirts.....but keeps this standard procedure from causing one to have to replace the MC... and start all over in terms of bleeding the brakes of air....
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  #25  
Old 05-17-2011, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Exactly......and I have written about how to avoid this in a thread lately....I think the one where the woman was doing the work on her brakes...
The responsibility is on the person down at the bleeder valve...
If that person just lets out a small amount and closes the bleeder...then the person or machine pressing the brake pedal has no way to go too far with the travel.... It takes more squirts.....but keeps this standard procedure from causing one to have to replace the MC... and start all over in terms of bleeding the brakes of air....
The woman - the woman? You make it sound like there's only one!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #27  
Old 05-17-2011, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Name the second one !
Drezel and Mistress count I think! But there's a whole world outside the confines of the forum. I know we both spend a lot of time here - but seriously our arm chair mechanics have to stop at sometime or other... perhaps we're missing out?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #29  
Old 05-17-2011, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Were they working on their brakes anytime lately ?
How would I know that?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #30  
Old 05-17-2011, 02:52 PM
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FYI

Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
... I made the mistake of flushing the fluid in my SD... with my brake pedal... it's now needing a master cylinder. won't hold brake at a stop light...
be sure and use a power bleeder on old master cylinders. pedal method will kill the seals on it and require replacement of an otherwise good MC...
If that killed it = it was bad and needed replacement..

Generally it will only fail if the PO did not follow the MB flush schedule.

I prefer finding a damaged master during flushing, my family's lives are worth more than any master cylinder..

In an emergency/panic stop you over stroke the master cylinder = the worst possible time for it to fail.

Power bleeders are nice, but you should never fear pumping the brake pedal full stroke.

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