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#1
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Anyone in Northern Colorado want to help me with a torsion bar repair kit? UPDATE
Hi,
new to the forum. I just traded my 05 subaru and its associated car payment for a 1985 300d turbodiesel sedan. Body isn't bad, 143k miles on it. I'm back in college, so funds area obviously on the shallow end of the spectrum. The end of my torsion bar failed on the passengers side yesterday. clunking around like crazy, scary during braking. So i ordered the peach parts kit after some research. my friend who welds is out of town for a month so Anbody from the forum willing to help? I'll buy ya pizza and beer. Thanks Schuyler Last edited by sky44; 05-24-2011 at 01:18 AM. |
#2
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welcome to the forum.
I wish I was closer, i'd help for pizza! it's REALLY unsafe driving the car with the ends busted off. best to have a tow to a welder.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#3
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I live in town, i'll be driving it just a few miles at <30 mph if i do end up needing to move the car. for now i'll be riding my bike to work. |
#4
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Best find some one who is very good at welding. Maybe some one at your college? Also welcome!! Moving from a subie to a MB is a big step forward !! My youngest brother started with a subie & has had 3 MB's since. He will never go back now.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#5
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yeah i think i may know some good welders.. what's preferred on this? TIG or MIG?
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#6
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sounds like i should be able to get this done at work. they encourage personal projects
so any noco folks? Seems like i see these cars really often. someone at CSU has a beautiful beige one. |
#7
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I live here in Fort Collins. Welding is about the only thing I can't help out with. Good luck with the repair.
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http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...-RESIZED-1.jpg 1991 300E - 212K and rising fast... |
#8
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Who's my best bet in the area for parts like brake pads and such? |
#9
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Is the end to be welded subject to torsion? I mean, a weld on a twisting bar doesn't sound like a good combination, wouldn't the weld give out?
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Cheers! Scott McPhee 1987 300D |
#10
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To remove the front torsion bar and replace with a good one would mean battery out, master brake cylinder etc out, disconnect heater coolant pipes, disconnect some vacuum lines, accelerator linkage, er may be some more bits! And then you're still stuck struggling with a very awkward rod of steel that will probably scratch the heck out of any paint it contacts and most likely will get itself stuck at the back of the engine... ...I removed my front torsion bar with the engine out and engine bay stripped to virtually nothing in it (done for painting) and it was still a pain in the backside. It took me nearly 10 minutes to get it out and there wasn't anything that could be removed in the way. So to cut a long winded answer short - welding on an end seems like a good way out - although it really does need to be done correctly. Regardless of which method you choose - you need to get the front suspension geometry adjusted.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#11
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I'm a sophomore engineering student with 4 years of experience in production metal work, for whatever that's worth. also learned how to run a wire feed mig welder today. |
#12
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this is an 85 W123... was there a torsion bar issue on these things? |
#13
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Naah I don't think so - all cars rust... I guess you're just a bit unlucky
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#14
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all done! right side anyway...
so things i learned-you gotta take out the battery tray to get to the inner control arm bolt. take off the air filter housing too the baum part is NOT stainless as far as i can tell. it welds very nicely with standard mild steel MIG wire. |
#15
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pardon my ignorance... its late...
is the torsion bar the sway bar?
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1981 300TD 4 speed manual Euro bumpers, zender valance and skirts, H&R springs, billy HD's, leveled sls, real AMG Pentas 16x8 et11, vdo boost/egt gauges intergrated into ash tray, eurolights, led 3rd brake light |
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