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Old 05-22-2011, 12:57 PM
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Question Noob needs help with Injector Pump

I've been a lurker for a few years on and off. Now time to post my first question. For the sake of brevity, I will just do a number outline of the situation.

1. Find local deal on some diesel fuel for $1.50 /gallon.
2. Runs fine in my dodge 2500 cummins truck (with water separator)
3. My 1982 Mercedes 300d (with engine from '83) is filled with 14 gallons, I pull out of the driveway after fill up and it stalls about 150 feet away.
4. Use Dodge to tow Mercedes home
5. Try to run on straight Diesel Purge. No luck
6. Try to bleed fuel system. Notice what seems to be water, then milky, foamy substance, coming out at lines from injector pump.
7. Remove hard fuel line manifold. Use compressed air to blow out manifold as well as every port that is soaked in the nasty fuel mixture.
8. Drain fuel tank completely. Notice what seems to be a little water and some minor debris.
9. Try to run on mixture of Diesel Purge and diesel fuel (mixed in can) and bleed the system. I have straight diesel now squirting out of four of the ports from the injector pump. However, the first port (closest to the front of the car) is bone dry, with nothing coming out.
10. I hook the manifold back up and am able to bleed a little more nastiness through the hard lines until straight diesel is coming out of the back four.
It looks like I have cleared the watery nastiness from the lines, but with the lines loosened, what pulls up on top of the the injectors is still a bit opaque. Is this normal? Is that what diesel is supposed to look like after it goes through the pump and lines?

I am pretty sure "port" is not the right term to describe the first point on the IP, but I went to try and pull that fitting out to see if I could clear any blockage but it doesn't seem to want to budge. Do I have to take the nuts off first? Do I have to take them off at all? I

I am assuming, and hoping, that with four of the "ports" shooting fuel from the IP that the pump is still good, but the first "port" can be addressed. Can someone give me some direction or advice on how to deal with this?

Thanks for any help!!
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Old 05-22-2011, 03:18 PM
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If your Fuel Injection Pump is an MW Type Fuel Injection pump that has a 13mm Nut on each side of the "Port" Do not touch the 13mm Nuts or shift any thing around. The reason is that you will change the Fuel amout setting for particular Element that was Set on a Calibration Stand.
Each one of those Elements held down by the 2 13mm Nuts is set individually.
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Old 05-22-2011, 03:34 PM
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Don't touch the 13mm Nuts on either side of the Port. The Nuts lock the Element Fuel amount setting that was done on a Calibration Machine.

There 13mm Nut on each side of the Element; I circled as many as were visable in the Diagram in Red.

In the 2nd pic the Blue Arrow points to the Fuel Injection Line Nut. Remove the Line.
The Yellow Arrow #1 points to the Delivery Vlave Holder that is between the 2 Nuts (the nuts you should not touch). You can unscrew that.

In the last pic you see #1 the Delivery Valve holder removed and parts #3 and #4 circled in Red. Carefully go in side of the Fuel Injection pump and remve #3 and #4 .
Put #1 the delivery Valve Holder back in the pump; just tightet it a bit no need to torque it yet.

Not shown in any of the pictures remove the Banjo Bolt where the Fuel Line from the Spin-on Fuel Filter goes into the top of the Fuel Injection Pump Housing. Remove the Banjo Bolt and the 2 Aluminum or Copper Crush washers.
With the Banjo Bolt removed you can now blow Filtered Compressed Air Down through the top #1 the Delivery Valve Holder. Have someone crank the Engine a little while you blow the Air in.
If the Plunger inside is moving like it is supposed to that should clear out any Holes insid that are plugged.

Put everthing back together and torque #1 to the proper Torque.
Find the Torque:
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

Due to the amount of Air in the Fuel Filter Housing before you attempt to start you will need to do alot of pumping on the Hand Primer and also may need to looen the Fuel Injection Hard Line nuts at the Injectors to bleed the Air out.
Attached Thumbnails
Noob needs help with Injector Pump-throttle-1.jpg   Noob needs help with Injector Pump-delivery-valve-1.jpg   Noob needs help with Injector Pump-delivery-valve-2.jpg  
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Last edited by Diesel911; 05-22-2011 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 05-22-2011, 04:28 PM
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I'm curious about a fuel that will run in the Dodge and not the MBZ. What year dodge? 98 or earlier?
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Old 05-22-2011, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post
I'm curious about a fuel that will run in the Dodge and not the MBZ. What year dodge? 98 or earlier?

Quote below is from the first Post:
"2. Runs fine in my dodge 2500 cummins truck (with water separator)"

The Mercedes has no Water Separator.
Also the Spin-on Fuel Filter is not physically as large as the ones on the Dodge so there is less room inside for contaminated Fuel so it would fill up quicker and pushed into the Fuel Injection Pump.

Labor wise the Cheap Fuel has become expensive.
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:53 PM
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water is VERY abrasive to the supremely tight tolerances of the IP... if when you are done cleaning out the mess, it still does not work, a replacement pump will be needed. be SURE and get rid of the fuel filters in your car too... they are gonners.

oh, welcome to the forum! (member since 07 and this is your first need to post! wow.)
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:22 PM
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The fuel filter on the engine is a water separator, but it has its limit after which you will ingest the water.

Water in an IP can cause rust, and damage.

Best of luck.
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Old 05-23-2011, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
The fuel filter on the engine is a water separator, but it has its limit after which you will ingest the water.

Water in an IP can cause rust, and damage.

Best of luck.
I agree with the rust comment. The Fuel Injection Pump an Rust up over night.

If what I suggested in my previous post does not work I would be thinking the there was rust in the Element and The Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft pushed up the Plunger in the Element and wedged it so it is stuck at the top of travel.

The Plunger has a Spring to return it but I have seen them stuck before like that.

If that happens to be that case there is a way to free up the Plunger but I do not want to mention it until the Guy who started the thread tells the other stuff I suggested did not work.
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I agree with the rust comment. The Fuel Injection Pump an Rust up over night.

If what I suggested in my previous post does not work I would be thinking the there was rust in the Element and The Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft pushed up the Plunger in the Element and wedged it so it is stuck at the top of travel.

The Plunger has a Spring to return it but I have seen them stuck before like that.

If that happens to be that case there is a way to free up the Plunger but I do not want to mention it until the Guy who started the thread tells the other stuff I suggested did not work.
I recieved an Email from one of our Members not related to this threads concerning his Fuel Injection Pump:
"Hi,
sorry for the late reply...
we took the pump to a service center and they said that some how some water had gone into the pump and caused something to get stuck, so good news is, found what the problem is... the pump! and not me doing the timing the wrong way LOL anyways we are going to pick it up soon and I'll post back as soon as I've got it"

This sounds like what I was describing in my post. Rust causes the Pluger to stick in the upwards position and the return spring does not have enough strength to push it back down.
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