Problem with brakes - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Junkman · #31 06-04-2011, 09:32 AM

I wonder how the mechanic condemned the MC for certain. Brake pads are easy. MC not so unless he pulled it forward & found a leak or the pedal creeps to the floor or....

digieditny · #32 06-04-2011, 09:45 AM

Would bad rear brakes or driving the car in hot weather in crazy Manhattan traffic for an hour make the pedal drop like that?

Well when I dropped off the car, I obviously told him about the pedal went down to the floor a hand full of times. Immediately he said "You need a new master cylinder". I left the car there for him to inspect. After 2 days of him not calling me back, I called him and he said "I bled your brake system. You need a new master cylinder and rear brakes" (something like that).

leathermang · #33 06-04-2011, 10:56 AM

In post number 6, my first post in this thread..
I suggested you put new fluid into the system..
Did you do that ?

charmalu · #34 06-04-2011, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by digieditny

Thanks for the response. Yes my 1984 300 TD. When I first got this car about 8 months ago, the first thing I did was take it to the mechanic and they installed new brakes and rotors. I haven't been dragging steel pads. The brakes haven't really made any noise since today. I didn't smell anything overly hot...

My girlfriend took the car to work today. She said the brakes were normal.

This from post #4, exactly what did he replace here 8 months ago? Now he said you need rear pads? was it only the fronts he worked on? Iam thinking if he replaced the rear rotors also, why use the old pads?

Iam with Maxbumpo In post #14, its the master cylinder.

I had mine go straight to the floor a few years ago. never an indication of a MC problem. luckly it was in the front yard turning around, not the steep mountain road I was a couple days earlier.

When i pulled the MC the Booster was full of brake fluid. it was leaking past the seal in the MC. so I replaced both at that time.

If you don`t have a noticable leak at at one of the wheels, (calipers/hoses) then the MC is either leaking into the Booster, (and you would notice a drop of fluid in the reservor) or leaking internally past a seal, then you will not notice a drop in the resevor.

Not really all that difficult of a job to do. do a search in Google on how the brakes work. how to maintain the system. how to replace the various components. Google is you friend for info.

then come to the forum and search here for specifics on your car, and then you can be walked through the basic steps from the guys that have done it.

Charlie

digieditny · #35 06-04-2011, 11:08 AM

The mechanic bled the brakes. I thought that bleeding the brakes myself would be risky since I don't know what im doing? How am I going to add new fluid without bleeding the brakes afterwards? That is why I haven't done that.

leathermang · #36 06-04-2011, 12:09 PM

Bleeding the brakes .. unless you are conscious of what you are doing.. ie, the amount added.... will not necessarily replace the fluid..
so if the problem has to do with moisture in the old fluid... .you have not done step one in the cheap diagnostic procedures...

digieditny · #37 06-04-2011, 12:21 PM

Lets say I've bled the brakes and replaced the fluid. Now it's filled up with new delicious brake fluid. Moisture and air bubbles are totally gone. How will I know if that was my problem to begin with?

leathermang · #38 06-04-2011, 12:25 PM

If it never happens again and there are no fluid loses... then the chances are it was that....
But if you have to add any fluid anytime soon... then you need to be checking for other stuff....

digieditny · #39 06-04-2011, 12:58 PM

I really appreciate the time you are taking to respond to me.

If you have time, can you take a look at this video HOW TO VIDEO and tell me if the procedure is the same with my 1984 w123 300td. Seems pretty simple... I have a mityvac hand pump.

leathermang · #40 06-04-2011, 01:02 PM

Don't leave.. am going to look.
NO....
There are several great threads lately on the problem with using vacuum at the bleeder nipple to extract the fluid..

the only proper way involves TWO PEOPLE....
one on pedal and one at the bleeder valve....
I have written the proper procedure in more than one thread...
do a search... post them and I will see that you have the correct / best one.
use my name for advanced search...

Getting the old fluid out part is fine... except you can do that with a 3 dollar siphon from Walmart instead of getting dirty fluid into your Mityvac...
keeping lids open minimum time great....

When you see people scared to do the two people deal... having to do with the seal on MC...
they were not following my directions...
which means that the person at the bleeder nipple has responsibility for not allowing the pedal to go too far...

Ok.. it is ok to use one person IF YOU HAVE A POWER BLEEDER... I always think cheap.... but bleeder is fine if you discard the unused fluid afterwards....not keep for the next time...