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#1
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trying to read the serial number off of my IP
It's impossible to see. I jammed my digital camera in there and took some pictures, but it's too close to focus well. I also put some tape over the stamped plate and did a few rubbings, a bit better but not much.
The vehicle is a 1983 300TD. Here's what I know: 3?5 200 MW 28-1 The ? may be a 2 or a 7, I'm not sure. There may also be a 1 right between the 5 and the 2. Any insight as to how many digits there should be, if any are standard, etc. would be great. |
#2
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ip numbers
there should be seven numbers, mine is mw375/2200 stamped left drivers side. then there is another plate with number mw-55/320RS16 THE 375 # Gets you what you want. good luck. i pulled mine to get my number,
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#3
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Try cleaning it with lacquer thinner..
let dry.. use some Prussian Blue machinist marking ink on it.. then after drying use a slightly moist high count cotton rag to wipe the flat surface with a flat block supporting it... that should show the numbers if anything will...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#4
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Mine is drivers left side, to the right and slightly lower than the lift pump. Is it possible my number is 375 1200? I can't see any other plates on there with numbers.
I need the number because I'm trying to replace my fuel shutoff solenoid, but it's a daily driver so I can't take it off the road long enough to pull the pump, aside from the fact that I'd rather not do it at all. |
#5
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LeatherMang,
If I could get my eyes anywhere near it it wouldn't be a problem. The plate faces downward towards the fender, thought about removing the tire but there's no real access hole there so I'd have to drill a peep hole, not the best idea but may be worth a try. |
#6
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have you tried using a mechanics mirror?
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#7
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79 Mercy beat me to that question....
or ... do you have any wax you could press into that area... ? like in the movies where the bad guy presses a key into wax then makes a duplicate... LOL Now, if you already had Prussian Blue in those recesses... that should show up well on the wax imprint....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#8
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Quote:
Bit of thin paper and a crayon.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#9
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ip number? vacume fuel shut off on back of pump
the fuel shut off on back of pump are all the same on 617 engine,s there is also a vacume valve on the ingnition switch,
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