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#1
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w123 ball joint tool
I've just dived into front-end work for the first time, tierods and center link. Had planned to do the ball joints as well... bought parts and THEN looked at the instructions....
Having looked over the threads on ball joints, I see discussion of various tools for different models but beyond a couple of passing references I did not see anything on this one. Opinions? Would I have room enough to leave the spindle in place on the car, using this? It is listed as compatible with the w123/w116.
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Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
#2
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Not sure about that specific tool. But I rented a press from my local autoparts store. Rented for something like $140 but it was refunded in full when I returned it. So it was a free rental. It worked great. I wouldn't by one unless you plan on using it many times.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#3
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Ball Joint Nightmare - chapter 2 I would read the whole Tread and also read Post #27 and the Thread that I started that is in post #27 concerning the OD of the Ball Joints. The biggest advantage of the C-Press is that in my area Autozone has free Rental ones (inspect it before you rent it). So if you return it it does not cost you anything to use it. The disadvantages are that you need to remove the Ball Jont Boot to use it. The Press and the adapters are not a very precision Tool so you need to be careful of the to keep things lined up. The Autozone one seemed to be better made that the PitBull and Harbor Freight ones that I own. Of the 3 the Harbor Freight one seemed to be the lowest quality. (A little over a year ago you could buy them at Harbor Freight for $30 when on sale. The price has go up since the.) Dormison has a thread somewhere in the DIY section where He Modified the C-Press and I believe made an adapter.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 05-26-2011 at 02:55 PM. |
#4
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It really takes a lot of force to get the Ball Joint in (it did on mine).
I am not sure that would be easy to do on the vehicle. Here is part of a pic I copied from another Member where an Impact Wrench was used to install the Joint.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#5
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Ahhhh
Thanks. I'm reading these threads and coming to the conclusion that if I attempt this, I will be introducing my inner child to my inner doofus in no time.
Off to the shop with it. Thanks for the input, guys.
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Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
#6
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That tool will work, but you will have to take the spindle off. Problem is the extenders you have to use to get over the stud on the ball joint will be too long to use on the car. The Mercedes tool is cut away to clear the spindle when mounted on the car. The good news is the spindle is not that difficult to take off.
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#7
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to do a proper job you should replace uppers and lowers at the same time anyway. they both have the same history of use and lubrication intervals. With this in mind its a no brainer to remove the spindle. I bought the long tool from evilbay to do my front end and it made the job pretty darn easy.
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#8
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No one has mentioned this so I will. The C-clamp tool is for installation of the ball joint (the easy part), not removal.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#9
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Quote:
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Ben 1987 190d 2.5Turbo |
#10
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this is the tool I have. you will still need a BFH and a press item # 400215528453
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#11
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Look for the words C-Press in a few of the previous posts; and pics of the same.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#12
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Quote:
from what I remember the c-press adapter didnt fit for removal. you can hammer it out, but its pretty hard on the spindle to do it that way with nothing backing it
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#13
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The Factory Manual has you gripping the long/upper end of ths spindle that attaches to the Upper Control arm in a Vice and Beating it out.
There is no Mercedes special Tool For removal; except there might be a big Punch to beat on. If someone has made any sort of (Tool I have not read of this), even a Tube for backing it up on a Hydralic Press for removal; I wish they would post a pic of it. One of our Members made the below Ball Joint Installer.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 05-27-2011 at 09:52 PM. |
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