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  #1  
Old 05-26-2011, 07:47 PM
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Location: Chicagoland area
Posts: 159
126 SDL rear brake job options

Doing the rear brakes on my 87 sdl. (did fronts over the winter) rear pass side was holding/frozen up, tons of corrosion etc and rotors too thin. so i got it all apart and im considering replacing one if not both parking brake shoe assemblies (pass side was rustwelded to rotor and driver side wasnt much better.

i got the calipers off and the boots are cracked, also tons of corrosion, hose split, etc. so i removed the pads, and split the caliper.... ya i know, not the best idea but i did it before i read on here not to do that. anyways heres my dilema do i A: rebuild them myself, or B: buy the rebuilt calipers... and if i buy the rebuilts does it matter of i get the ATE or Bendix if replacing both? (fronts are ATE) is one brand better or worse? the rear is currently bendix. and if i rebuild myself are those 2 small orings anything special or can i just use replacements from my oring assortment kit?

Also, what is the prefered brake pad type/material?

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1987 300SDL "Rudolf" 239k 8/10


Gone but not forgotten
-1980 F250 4X4 351C Snowplow "The Beast"
-1976 Caddy Eldo Convertible, in triple red. "Red headed Slut"
-2002 Honda Accord EX-V6 loaded 107k, My first brand new car!


*IM A HORRIBLE SPELLER*
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  #2  
Old 05-26-2011, 08:52 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Southern FL
Posts: 227
For the prices of rebuilt calipers I would go that route to avoid possible problems, especially if you've never rebuilt any. If you change both you just have to get the same brand for both sides. My 1990 W126 has ATE rotors all the way around. They work just great. Some of the best aftermarket pads are Pagid and Textar. Original Mercedes pads are not all that expensive given their durability. That's what I use. I didn't go for ceramic pads because I like OE pads and they're not ceramic. That's just my personal choice.
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  #3  
Old 05-26-2011, 09:27 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 4,154
Cardone is the most common rebuilder AND has HORRIBLE quality control. That said, they are cheap and work IF they work AND have a lifetime warranty. Poor quality is the reason to buy locally (or not at all) so as not to get stuck with shipping costs or having to wait for shipping if you need to exchange them.

The 2 brands are interchangeable but should match side to side (Front & rear can differ) so buy whatever brand is least expensive. Buy good brand name rotors & pads. You don't need fancy rotors for the street, just decent steel and proper fit. Change brake hoses & do the parking brake while you have it apart.

How is the brake master? I bought new from here and may be tempted to put a kit in the next one (hopefully not for a long time or unless I get another (additional?)car).
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #4  
Old 05-26-2011, 10:14 PM
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This is the only chart on the Internet that I could easily find that had a torque for 12.9 Grade Bolts (this is the grade of the Bolts on my Caliper Halves). However, they only show Allen Head Bolts on the chart. I do not see why if the Bolt was the same grade the Head on the Bolt would make a difference.
Use your best judgment.
(You will need to know the Pitch of your Threads to use the Chart.)
Has torque for grade 12.9 Metric bolts
http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorque.aspx
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  #5  
Old 05-27-2011, 12:47 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Chicagoland area
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Thank you all for the input.

For those of you who have rebuilt them, what about the 2 small o-rings inside? There is no call out with p/n in the EPC and Its not pictured in the rebuild kits :/
__________________
1987 300SDL "Rudolf" 239k 8/10


Gone but not forgotten
-1980 F250 4X4 351C Snowplow "The Beast"
-1976 Caddy Eldo Convertible, in triple red. "Red headed Slut"
-2002 Honda Accord EX-V6 loaded 107k, My first brand new car!


*IM A HORRIBLE SPELLER*

Last edited by vstech; 05-27-2011 at 11:43 AM. Reason: fixed spelling... :)
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  #6  
Old 05-27-2011, 05:41 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Chicagoland area
Posts: 159
bump
__________________
1987 300SDL "Rudolf" 239k 8/10


Gone but not forgotten
-1980 F250 4X4 351C Snowplow "The Beast"
-1976 Caddy Eldo Convertible, in triple red. "Red headed Slut"
-2002 Honda Accord EX-V6 loaded 107k, My first brand new car!


*IM A HORRIBLE SPELLER*
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  #7  
Old 05-29-2011, 12:47 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsieracki View Post
Doing the rear brakes on my 87 sdl. (did fronts over the winter) rear pass side was holding/frozen up, tons of corrosion etc and rotors too thin. so i got it all apart and im considering replacing one if not both parking brake shoe assemblies (pass side was rustwelded to rotor and driver side wasnt much better.

i got the calipers off and the boots are cracked, also tons of corrosion, hose split, etc. so i removed the pads, and split the caliper.... ya i know, not the best idea but i did it before i read on here not to do that. anyways heres my dilema do i A: rebuild them myself, or B: buy the rebuilt brake calipers... and if i buy the rebuilts does it matter of i get the ATE or Bendix if replacing both? (fronts are ATE) is one brand better or worse? the rear is currently bendix. and if i rebuild myself are those 2 small orings anything special or can i just use replacements from my oring assortment kit?

Also, what is the prefered brake pad type/material?
ATE or Bendex it does not matter. if you are gooing to replace them it doesn't really matter. You will be replacing them in pairs so its better that you buy two of the same brand. A lot aftermaket shops has great rebuilt brake calipers at reasonable prices(surprisingly they're good for something).Ease your worries about the calipers as long as they are both rebuilt.


Last edited by whunter; 05-30-2011 at 11:00 AM. Reason: removed link
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