A/C compressor woes in an 83 European 300D Mommy make the pain stop!
 

Mean while back at the ranch... The continuing travails of Brunehilda the 1983 European 300D:

After having in the last two months replaced the ignition switch (because the key wouldnt turn any more), the windshield (because of a bad/leaking gasket), the harmonic balancer ($95.00 for a good used US version, $368.00 for a new European one), pulled out the dash cluster and cleaned all the connections because of the infamous "dancing" temperature gauge/gas gauge (and we wont even talk about the !@#$%^&* vacuum locks...)

The significant other was driving the other day and smelled a "funny burning kind of smell and then the air conditioner stopped working".

When I looked under the hood I saw the belt was still on the compressor and turning but the clutch was NOT engaging. When I went to touch the clutch plate it was burning hot to the touch. I have since taken the belt off of the compressor (and you ought to hear/feel the bearing noise when you spin the compressor by hand) and Brunehilda/She Who Must be Obeyed continues to run strong (probably significantly stronger without the pull strain of the compressor.

I have been doing research on the site regarding compressors and saw a great write up about alternative compressors for the Euro w123 originally posted by engatwork BUT I am having trouble following the Sanden/Daiavia/R4/York alternate compressor/brackets discussion.

As you guys have pretty much spoon fed me thru some pretty significant repairs in the past, here are my questions:

1. Noting the pictures attached, what kind of compressor is currently in the car? the only identification/numbers I see are on a plate on the compressor and are: 113 130 3470; and 8390

2. What are my repair options? Do I have to get a exact replacement compressor (once again quadrupling the actual value of the car in parts costs;)) or is there a way to obtain adapters/brackets from ebay people or others that will allow me to use an R4 compressor (thereby only doubling the costs) ?

Hopefully the pictures show it but my current compressor has an idler pulley that is almost impossible to tighten more than 1/64th of a turn at a time but as far as I can tell is the only way to apply/maintain tension to the belt.

Failing this can any one put me on to a really good exorcist?

Thanks for any help or thoughts you might have

Sure looks a lot like a Sanden compressor. I'm sure if you got in contact with them with a bunch of measurements from your old compressor that they could come up with one that will fit. Otherwise, you could try and find a clutch that will fit, which might be more difficult then finding the whole compressor. A bearing for the pulley would be easy.

http://www.sanden.com/index.php?tag=U5H0AMX7Q

Who needs A/C anyway?

Move north.

It looks similar to the Sanden 508 mentioned in other threads. Do a google search for sanden 508 images and prices. 139 to more 249, make sure you get the correct pulley.

The symptoms seem a bit odd though. I'd be surprised if you could turn the compressor by hand with the clutch engaged yet the belt squealed and got hot and had a significant load on the engine. If the clutch isn't engaged and it's groaning/squealing then that part is definitely bad.

I think that is a better compressor than the R4. I'm with the above suggestion to contact an a/c parts supply house and give them all the info you can on it. Better yet, remove it and take it to them to match up. The compressor is the most expensive item in the rebuild. I suggest purchasing new.

If you do want to go with the r4 compressor you should be able to find the necessary bracketry and fasteners at a pull a parts with the compressor still intact. You will have to change the hoses.

Any reason why you think it's better? I'm asking because my r4 is noisy and I'm thinking about going with something different. Maybe a V5...

A " V5 " ?
Tell me more about that relative of Bigfoot....

If the car came with an AC Delco R4 compressor then that is what I would replace it with. I am of the opinion that it would not be worth it to change over to the Sanden unit unless you had a parts car sitting adjacent to it with the Sanden unit installed and operable. I have researched this at length a few years ago.

I totally agree....and you would need great metal tube bending skills .... and more patience than JOB.

Here's some stuff about them:


http://65.36.189.119/messageview.cfm?catid=4&threadid=20688&STARTPAGE=1&FTVAR_MSGDBTABLE=

I have a friend who does some hot-rod retrofits and he swears by the V5. You'd have to have some fab skill/equipment to make brackets plus have hoses made etc. I have TIG/MIG welders, plasma cutter plus some machine tools...

It's a small compressor with decent mounting options and hose adapters are available.

Would be sad to go through a bunch of work and have it suck though...

Ok.. can you explain where you get the " V " in the V5 designation ?
A Harley is a V... a York is a V..... an R4 is a Radial.....
but if you have parallel pistons how do you get the " V " ?

That compressor sure looks like a Sanden 508. just replace it with the same thing, just an easy R&R.

Here is a thread started by Engatwork a few yrs back, and I added to it. I found a sanden set up in PNP and removed the whole thing. I posted a bunch of pictures of all the brackets. where the R4 bracket bolts to the 3 mounting points on the side, the sanden bracket uses only 2, and there are 2 threaded holes under the vacuum pump to secure it. the 617.952 eng does no have these 2 holes.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/233365-alternative-compressor-mount-euro-w123.html

Palehorse13, are the brackets the same on your car?
Charlie

1980sd, if you notice the Hot Rod guys at the car shows, use the Sanden compressor instead of the R4. must be a reason?

Well they can be chromed/polished and definately look better than a GM R4. but what I understand, they are more efficient.

Charlie

That is my understanding.

X10