Got an A/C repair price quote
 

1984 300td turbo Euro. Manual A/C.

I'm providing new compressor, drier, and expansion valves.

He says

"you should put in the 134 A in it, but seeing as how you don't want to convert the work can cost anywhere between 500-900.00, you have to provide the freon"

Does that sound about right? Is r-12 hard to come by?

RUN FAST.
Start reading the AC threads starting with the sticky at the top of page..
then provide all info about your car...
you likely do not have manual ac... that would be type one...too late a model unless custom converted....
Greg

check pm's...

This is the A/C unit I have. Type 1?

Well, your bottom dash does look manual....
usually the vertical temperature wheel means later style.. have seen some mixed though...
need picture of your engine compartment including along the firewall...

he's got an euro, it's manual. my 85 TD is manual too.

if YOU are providing all the parts, and the freon and he charges more than 120 or so, he's a crook.

Those Euro models are much smarter than our American ones....

Throw the evaporator in there and it's a whole new ballgame, though. At least on most of these where getting the dash out just to get to it isn't worth it.

$120! Damn! I'd drive my car a few hours to get that price!

One more quick question! I'm looking into doing this myself BUT... If I were to get someone to do it, would it be preferable that they be familiar with mercedes A/Cs or are A/Cs pretty generic in design? NOOB QUESTION!

I don't think you get much A/C labor in Brooklyn for $120.00. I would think that with parts supplied you might get it done for $500.00

Damn! Looks like I'm going to have to take it to dirty jersey! j/king. Ya labor in Brooklyn is ridiculous!

pretty generic.

Pretty generic but it would really help them out if you make available a MB AC FSM....
might save time and broken items ... like the Txvalve coming out...

Ya, if the tech has service information available (which he should, I'd imagine this system is the same as a 240D) they should be able to figure it out.

Even the 81+ fully automatic system is fairly simple.

-J

Im thinking the same thing, heck that compressor is a 2 hour job by itself unless youre a contortionist.

Take some pics and post them here about your system. Since you've got a euro wagon the default parts searches may result in the wrong parts for your car; e.g. you might have a Sanden compressor instead of an R-4.

You can build a parts price list pretty easy if you know what you're looking for. Use the link I sent the other day and review M-B A/C theory and parts. A little knowledge about the basics of what the parts do helps immensely.

Between $500 and 900 may be about right for a ballpark figure for a new compressor ($200-300), R/D (factory price (~200?), leak check, fill and test. But that's the "replace the common broken parts" estimate unless he's already diagnosed the compressor as bad or some other obvious leak, like a hole in your condenser or cut or leaky hose.

Thanks Yak, we are building a list and he is checking on what he can rent instead of buying close to him....
He does not have the R-4 or Sanden... another name..but regular type compressor..

He has not diagnosed the compressor as bad yet... just starting to gather tools... nitrogen, r22, gauges, etc

the price is for labor only... the poster is providing ALL parts!
$500 would be my ULTIMATE high price.
more likely in the 100-180 range.

Going to post pictures of my A/C components in a sec.

In the meantime, check out this sexy photo.

Yes , that is a sexy picture... shows how warped some of us are.....

It's not unreasonable for him to give a range. It's an old car so there is no telling what he may run into. Here the independent labor rate is about $100-110 hr.

5 hours sounds pretty reasonable to change a compressor, expansion valve, and dryer, then pull a vac, let it sit to make sure that there are no leaks and charge the system.

If there are leaks, or it doesn't cool because of a blockage somewhere or a hose is dry rotted etc, then it will need more work which will cost more.

I'm going through this effort myself with a fellow that I met through the forum circles, it was supposed to be just a quick vac and charge, but then it turns out that he needs a new expansion valve, drier, then it doesn't cool because the vents are not opening properly due to vacuum issues etc etc.

I offered my labor for free, but needless to say, had I known it was going to be so much aggro, I wouldn't have touched it with a 10ft barge pole.

Please follow this LINK to see the pictures. They should be large. Let me know if there's anything I should take a picture of closer. Yes that's the dryer that's unplugged.

I was able to turn the front of the compressor. Not sure if that is worth anything. Yes she's kinda rusty...

Al,
Don't take a chance on offering free labor to me.... you are only 200 miles and I will come pick you up in an air conditioned Lincoln Towncar..LOL
What is ' aggro ' ? it is not shortened 'aggrAvation' ... so I am out of guesses....

My indy replaced my compressor, dryer, expansion valve, condenser, radiator, fan clutch, fan shroud, upper and lower radiator hoses, and thermostat for $600 @ $70 an hour labor. I provided all the parts. I went way overboard but now the SL has very good performing AC on 134 and is turn key again. I always seem to find about $2000 a year to spend on it despite only driving it about 2000 miles a year. :o

Exactly (in British English).

That looks like a standard R-4 compressor. Harrison might have been an OE supplier. I pulled a Harrison off and it had the M-B "upside down" X - oil-well thing.

You note that your aux fan high-temp switch is disconnected, so it might be easy to jumper and test the motor. You could easily unscrew the switch and test that with a meter, a high-temp thermometer and a pan of water; if you're building a list and want to consider the temp probe.

In the big picture, I'd keep an eye on those oil cooler lines. The one in pic 2 or 3 looks a bit rusty so it may indicate old age. Or it might just indicate salty NE roads and the rubber is fine. Worth a look, though.

I just asked him if he was sure that was not an R-4....
Sure does look like it...

Service manual Harrison HR110MD. Use at own risk. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CFwQFjAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.twistedandes.com%2Fforo%2Fattachment.php %3Fattachmentid%3D64175%26d%3D1248701503&rct=j&q=Harrison%20HR110MD&ei=8AXwTbfTBIeftweuo6mXCQ&usg=AF QjCNFGZEwcazShVQ8F76yJq2onGTPixA

I found that manual too. How would I be able to tell if it's an R-4?

Do a google search on r4 compressor picture and there are many pics out there on the net.

Yep R-4. Thanks for suggestion.