how to check/tune ip timing on an OM606?
 

I've been hunting around for a good post on how to check/tune the timing on my IP for my OM606. I could not find it on the forum thread on the subject: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/239595-diesel-injection-pump-timing-device-threads.html

The FSM says to use a Digital meter but I do not see one in the loaner thread.

Any one ever tackle this one? ...or should I just take it to my local MB shop?

Why do you think there's a problem? IP timing usually doesn't change by itself, unless you have a great deal of timing chain stretch, which is another problem entirely.

New injector nozzles installed recently and there is a little white smoke in the exhaust now that wasn't there before. Timing chain is new as of 6 months ago.

I've done a lot of pump work on my car and I set the timing by "ear". It's not scientific but it's worked so far. I was getting a burst of clatter upon initial acceleration which indicated far retarded injection so I just advanced it little by little until the clatter went away.

I'd really love to get one of those acoustic interfaces to do a proper job of timing it though but their several hundred dollars.

Thanks. I have clatter too! I'm attaching the pages from my FSM. So it looks like I can loosen the securing bolts and just adjust the 30/1 screw?

More info please
 

I have a 1996 E300 with 220kmi on it. I highly doubt the chain has been replaced, I also have some white/blue smoke when cold and a little too much clatter. My injectors were tested /shimmed, they are perfect. Tank cleaned, good fuel, no bubbles in lines. Runs very good when warmed up with a little too much clatter remaining. Power is a little weak at bottom end RPM, good as it builds more RPM.

Possible to try adjusting the pump slightly to improve? Please explain steps in doing so, Pics. if possible.
Thanks
Lowflyingbird

That PDF is exactly as the procedure is. Use a 3/8" drive with a 3" extension and 13mm socket to loosen the front 3 and rear 1 bolt just a little, not super loose because the threaded tabs will fall off and you'll have a heck of a time putting them back on. (I also used a piece of bailing wire to pull and hold the radiator hose out of the way. Then, put an 8mm socket on a 10" or so extension and slip it down over the adjusting screw.

Start the engine and let it warm up completely. Grab the throttle and slowly rev the engine to around 2k RPM. If you hear a lot of clatter just off idle until about 1500, then turn the adjusting screw a half turn counter clockwise and repeat the rev from idle.

If you still hear the burst of clatter, turn the screw another half turn and repeat this process until you hear some improvement. Keep count of your turns because if you don't hear any change in the engine sound, you have another problem and you'll want to return the pump to it's original position. I went a little too far with the advance and the engine started making a soft "squeaking" sound from somewhere inside so I turned the screw a turn or 2 clockwise until the noise went away.

It's been running perfect ever since!

Evan: Perfect, thanks!!

'Allo ???
 

Y'all Do realize Turning the Adjusting Screw 30/1 WITHOUT the Electronic Meter 001
TAKES the I.P. Outside the Parameters of the Factory Specs.
(FOREVER, as far as you're concerned!)

Only Crazy Owners adjust their I.P.s by EAR!

[For Me,this is like watching a Blind Man teach other Blind persons to fly,over the Internet.]

Obviously it's better to do things according to spec but lacking the appropriate resources: funds/tools, we do what we have to.

Beyond the detonation due to far advanced injection, what are other dangers?

So does driving it 250,000 miles. I'm not that worried :D

Having just done this procedure last night, I'm going to add some knowledge (mainly for noobs like myself):

1. The bolts for the IP are on the mounting plate for the vacuum pump, and kind of hidden Only two of them can be seen without removing the radiator. The FSM manual diagram is, as usual, only slightly better than nothing, giving the impression that the bolts should be both readily visible and easily accessed.

2. The IP bolts, at least on my engine, are EXTREMELY tight. Like, cheap-ratchet-breaking tight. Use a breaker bar and some PB Blaster, and don't be afraid to whale on it a bit. Mine took me most of 20 minutes to break loose.

3. There is a lot of stuff in the way of the IP adjustment screw 30/1. On mine, there's a fuel hose routed DIRECTLY over it. You're going to want to use a 1/4" drive socket and extender here, I can't see how a 3/8" extender could even fit into this space.

4. 30/1 is quite loose. I was expecting it to be slightly stiff, but it turns freely. Don't turn it too far. I ended up taking the extender off the ratchet and turning it by hand because the screw didn't provide enough resistance for the ratcheting action.

Thank you from a fellow noob! :D

I'm going to give this a shot this weekend and I really appreciate the input.

need to confirm the three 13 mm bolts to loosen
 

Guys: I've loosened the three 13 mm bolts that I could find, but I couldn't get the rear bolt loose. There's another device in the way and it's really hard to get a wrench or socket on it. Any advice here would be great.

I got the engine all warmed up and the 8 mm IP adjustment bolt goes just under 2 turns clockwise with my fingers like okto said, then it stops and is hard to turn even with a socket wrench. I do not want to break anything and I'm not sure if I loosened the correct three 13 mm bolt heads.

Can you take a look at the picture below and see if this is the top bolt to loosen? This is the one I am unsure of. It's between the fuel filter and the power steering pump and you have to use a regular open wrench to loosen it because of the pulley wheel. Maybe there's another bolt down below that I did not find?

That's not one of the IP retaining bolts. One of the square nuts is ahead and about the level of the IP lift pump. The other two are between the IP and block so just loosen the bolts. If you remove the bolts, you might never retrieve the square nuts. I don't know where the back end bracket is in a 606.

You need a good reason to move the IP, or more relevantly, the o-ring between the IP and the block, after 250K miles. That o-ring is just begging to leak.

Sixto
87 300D

Hmmm... Well I think I may have found it, but it is a real PIA to get to. See my attachment. The A and B bolt heads I am sure of. The one next to the crankshaft pulley, is that the 3rd one, C?

What O-ring are you referring to? I don't want to break it, but after replacing the nozzles, the engine has a lot of clatter and I've read this may mean the IP timing is retarded. I just want to advance the timing a scosch and see if the clatter subsides. If not, I will return it to the same position.

The o-ring is between the IP and the crankcase. Part # 013 997 09 47. It allows oil to drain from the IP back into the engine (the IP is lubricated by engine oil). At your mileage the o-ring is probably old and hard. It is possible that it will leak externally if disturbed and make a continual mess on that side of the block. Removing the IP just to replace that o-ring is a lot of work.

That's not a good reference image in your pdf, at least the B position looks off. The three IP bolts are around the engine vacuum pump. The vacuum pump is held by bolts that take a 10mm wrench, the IP is held by bolts that take a 13mm wrench.

I circled the three holes for the IP retaining bolts in this picture of a 603 from gsxr's collection. Imagine the engine vacuum pump is sitting over the exposed IP timer and timing chain. You might have to remove the power steering pump pulley for access to the outboard bolt.

Sixto
87 300D

Good picture of my favorite engine:).

Jim, you realize that's a .970, right? No side oil pan and dipstick in front.

Sixto
87 300D

lol - oops I should have looked a little closer before speaking. Good catch.

Thanks Sixto. I'll see what I can do without having to remove to much stuff.

Thanks Jeremy. I will keep this in mind. I do not want to break the oring!!

Jeff, on your picture, C is indeed the last bolt. This is backed up by sixto's picture. I was able to reach all 3 bolts with a 3/8" drive, 3" extension and socket.

I have another question:
Which direction on screw 30/1 does what, and what are the effects of retarded/advanced ignition? I usually need to understand the theory behind what I'm doing before I get it.

I have timed my injection pump on my 190D 2.2 several times (don't ask why), and used the timing tool that is inserted in the governor port (I think that is what it is called). If you loosen the pump enough to adjust it, the O ring may leak (as alluded to earlier). You may be better off just removing the IP, (to replace the O ring) and timing it a little advanced. The tool is available here, but I just made one with a wood dowel and cut a slot in the end with a hacksaw. I placed the crank pulley at the timing I desired (spec is 24-26 BTDC IIRC), and plugged in the IP with the home made tool holding the governor in place.

See my post that has the pages from the FSM: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2731588-post5.html

It has the description of CW versus CCW.

Rollguy: Thanks! Any chance you could post a picture of the wood dowel and the governor port so we can see how it might relate to our OM606's?

I think I stated that the timing was done on a 2.2 4 cyl. I believe all Bosch I P's after about '84 had this timing port (correct me if I am wrong). It is used for the electronic tool called (I think) an A-B light. The port is also used for fitting the timing tool into. I have not worked on a 606 I P, so I can't say for sure if they work the same as the 2.2. Maybe someone else can chime in here. The tool I made was a cheap (and quickly made) version of the M B factory (Bosch) tool. The tool is just basically a wooden dowel with a slot cut in it. The governor has a raised part that looks like a slotted screwdriver sticking out. The dowel (or the actual tool) is inserted in the hole, and the blade fits into the slot, holding the governor steady (and in time). With the crank pulley placed at the desired #BTDC, the I P is installed and bolted down. The timing is now set.
The way I understand it, the A/B light does essentially the same thing, except the crank is turned until both lights light. The degree on the crank is noted, and the I P advanced, or retarded until the both lights are lit at the desired timing. Either method can be used, but I think the A/B light is quite expensive. The timing tool should cost no more than $50.00, but I made one that worked for almost nothing.

Rollguy: Ah, I think you are referring to the RIV method as in the attached pages from the FSM?

It sounds like you are inserting the dowel into the indicated 017 port on the governor housing?

And then the specs indicated for my OM606 is 14 deg + 0.5 deg ATDC. So using this method... my ideal timing would be when the slot in the dowel is aligned with the governor blade and the timing pulley lines up from 14 to 14.5 degrees. Am I understanding correctly?

Yes that looks correct. However, I think the crank is put at whatever degrees BTDC for installing the pump with the timing pin holding the governor.
At least that was what I did on the 2.2. I think it was 24 degrees BTDC.
If your engine is together, you can check where the timing is at now by removing the plug on the gov housing, and lining the blade in the center of the hole. Look at the crank pulley and note where the pointer is. The A/B light does this exact thing, only much more accurate. The professional timing tool is spring loaded, and snaps in when the blade lines up with the slot.Here is an ebay listing with photo:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Diesel-Engine-Injection-Pump-Pin-Timing-Tool-/110695171365?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item19c5f24525

Couple notes of caution:

The timing tool will NOT ride around on the "governor" (no governor on OM606.962) and snap into place because the ramp up on the edge of the device is too steep to push it up and out of the way.

Too, you have to only move the engine clockwise when lining up the locking device. If you overshoot, you have to turn the engine around 2 more times rather than backing it up.

Correct. However, there is about a quarter inch either way that the tool will ride on the tip of the blade, and snap in. The first time I used one of these tools (rented from a local Euro auto repair), I got the blade close, and turned the crank the slightest amount and heard a "snap" as the tool engaged. But you are correct, in that one should not insert the tool and then turn the crank.

I learned this one the hard way. Turn ONLY clockwise!

Excellent! The engine is together currently and I hope to keep it that way :) Now I understand that your alignment was based on a pump install. I will keep that in mind if/when I decide to replace the o-ring and/or pump. For now I just want to know where my timing is compared to ideal.

Thanks for the link to the ebay listing. I had seen this tool before, but I was unsure how to use it. Now it makes sense!