While working on A.C. this happened - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

yuke · #16 06-19-2011, 04:35 PM

The latest thing I've noticed since I tried to work on my A.C. is that now my tach bounces when i am at speeds of 60 mph and over does not do it all the time but it did not do this before was wondering where the problem could be.Still did not patch the leak on my condensor line but i will get to it shortly and will try to go with the J.B. weld method first. 85 300 SD.Whatever caused the awful clanking and knocking noise before did not damage the engine as it runs fine except for the tach issue now.I did have the instrument cluster out a few weeks prior to this to fix a gear in my non working odometer but I think my tach worked o-kay after that fix.

leathermang · #17 06-19-2011, 04:45 PM

Start a new thread for the tach issue..
on the JBWeld...
take a 2 plus inch of copper tube the same diameter as your leaking tube..

Cut it long ways a 1/16 inch farther on both sides than half way...
those two extra distances are to be bent in to keep the rest of the copper splice off the actual leaking tube...if you can leave a tab in the center where you cut to fold in that is great... so you have a certain minimum thickness of JBWeld which is needed for epoxy strength.... so you have four tabs holding it off your leaking tube...
this is just a holder for the JBWeld in a certain manner.... but ties it together to result in several thousand pounds of strength...

Then clean the area and the inside of the hold off patch coppers..100 grit flint sandpaper is good for this...

mix the JBWeld on a piece of cardboard with a spatula ... very thoroughly ...VERY... then have some duct tape ready to seal the underside of the copper stand off patch...

and put it all together...

the Duct tape is just to keep the JBWeld from running out the bottom of the patch holder....you can use Duct tape to hold it all together and do not move anything for 24 hours...

Center the patch over the hole of course..

Any questions hollar at me.... but actually read all the directions on the JBWeld tubes just for the principle...

yuke · #18 06-20-2011, 01:36 AM

Leathermang I do not totally understand the method with the copper tube.Are you saying to get a tube cut it lengh wise to slip it over original tube and then cut some tabs on bottom so you end up with a 1/16" wall of J.B. 2 " long over site of hole.

leathermang · #19 06-20-2011, 01:48 AM

See !!! you do understand exactly !!!

You just have a tube of same diameter as your leaking tube..
cut it longwise with the tabs extra over half the diameter... so they can be folded in on the sides..
and at top and bottom you could just notch the tube in the center... two notches make a flap to fold in to match those side flaps.. so on four sides you have it held away from the leaking tube so that your epoxy winds up at least 1/16 inch deep... more is just fine also... that will be super strong...and the load is shared across all the contact area ... instead of just putting a drop of epoxy on the leak hole..which means the pressure is against one spot basically... this makes sure the patch is a large surface area with sufficient thickness to make it strong... then just use tape to keep it from running out the gaps until it sets up... 24 hours with no movement....

jimmypete · #20 11-11-2011, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Renntag

How about this one for size. Anyone viewing this forum has the ability to do add arrows to photos. All Microsoft operating systems (Windows) include "MS Paint". In the later versions (Win 95 and later), right click on a photo and choose "open with ===> MS Paint" or choose "edit" and MS Paint will be launched by default.

Those of us cool enough to have a Linux distribution get to use "Gimp" for photo editing. Windows users can download Gimp for free and have a photoshop type editing tool for free thanks to the joys of open source.

Or you can just point with your finger when you take the picture.

jimmypete · #21 11-11-2011, 11:01 AM

I replaced my W123 stock condenser with a universal parallel I bought off the internet for $50. Size is 16X20. Got two custom hoses made for $65 total. Those old condensers aren't worth repairing IMHO. Parallel condensers are supposed to do a 30% better job, and I guess that's comparing new to new...the old stock vs new parallel should be better than that. Next summer will tell the story. If anyone wants to see photos of the job let me know and I'll post them.

Jim

leathermang · #22 11-11-2011, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmypete

Or you can just point with your finger when you take the picture.

Yes, yes you could... if you wanted to do the logical,easy, simple, obvious thing... but we seldom even see those answers around here...we are into way more complicated orders of behavior .....

1980sd · #23 11-12-2011, 05:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmypete

I replaced my W123 stock condenser with a universal parallel I bought off the internet for $50. Size is 16X20. Got two custom hoses made for $65 total. Those old condensers aren't worth repairing IMHO. Parallel condensers are supposed to do a 30% better job, and I guess that's comparing new to new...the old stock vs new parallel should be better than that. Next summer will tell the story. If anyone wants to see photos of the job let me know and I'll post them.

Jim

That's what I did on my 116 along with a 16" fan. It works well. You do have to deal with mounting the rec/drier but it's not a big deal.

scottmcphee · #24 11-12-2011, 11:07 AM

I swear, if my A/C ever decides to stop working, it's all coming out... physically removed from the car. For the 5 days per year over a 2 month window where cold air is actually needed it just wouldn't be worth the effort keeping it.

leathermang · #25 11-12-2011, 01:04 PM

Scott,
Why don't you put your location in the right hand corner of your post ?
Why don't you go ahead and take it out while it is working and sell it to someone in the south that needs it ?
Remember that you need to start it up once per month in all weather to keep that front compressor seal lubed...5-10 minutes of actual AC compressor running is enough...

scottmcphee · #26 11-12-2011, 04:00 PM

Good point, I'll updated my location, it's Edmonton, Canada. I see it's showing up now in the corner, great.

The car I care about is daily driver, so it starts every day to get me to work, I'm not worried about A/C lube there. The other ones' A/C, meh. If anybody wants bits and pieces off those, I've got a wrench - parts prices proportional to number of knuckles busted.

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