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  #1  
Old 06-15-2011, 11:37 AM
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Thermostat housing bolt snapped

I was going to put in a new thermostat today but not it looks like it's not happening... The first bolt I tried to remove just snapped! Now I'm not sure if the rest of the bolt is still in there holding the top left housing section in place...

What should I do? I'm afraid to try another bolt and have that one break on me.

I'm doing the work at the autozone parking lot... ya I know that sounds dumb but you'll be surprised how many people work on their cars there in brooklyn.

Jaime

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  #2  
Old 06-15-2011, 11:40 AM
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... very common.
you have to remove the entire housing, drill out the broken bolt/s, and replace them, or replace the entire housing with a good one from a parts yard.
cruddy design. the thin bolts get moisture on them, corrode, and fail. MASSIVE soaking with penetrant is advised prior to service.
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Old 06-15-2011, 11:46 AM
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Is there a pictorial on how to remove the housing? Is it pretty simple?

Would this housing work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-617-300D-Thermostat-Housing-W123-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35b2a6f156QQitemZ230630551894QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries
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Old 06-15-2011, 11:55 AM
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Is it necessary to remove the fan shroud? This might be a bigger job that I can take on at this parking lot. Is there some kind of sealant I can use in hopes of not letting that section of the housing leak?
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Old 06-15-2011, 12:37 PM
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If you can make it home with the car as it is, do so, and do the work there. Soak all of the thermostat bolts in penetrating oil and carefully remove the unbroken one so that you can get the thermostat housing off. It looks like the bolt broke off so short that there may be threads sticking out of the hole to where you can get a Vice-Grip® on them. Again, use lots of penetrating oil and work slowly. If that doesn't work, you'll have to drill a hole in the broken bolt and use an EZ-out.
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
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Old 06-15-2011, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digieditny View Post
Is it necessary to remove the fan shroud? This might be a bigger job that I can take on at this parking lot. Is there some kind of sealant I can use in hopes of not letting that section of the housing leak?
I think you already know there is no sealant that is guaranteed to work.
You could simply get a jug of water and drive a bit pull over and fill up and so on until you get where you want to go. Watching the Temp Gauge so it done not get tool hot.
You could also get on the Internet a join one of the Auto Clubs making sure you could get the free towing today.

People work in the Autoparts Parking lot out here also.
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Old 06-15-2011, 12:44 PM
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If you go with the towing idea you might want to include what Vehicle you have so that someone can say if it has to be towed from the Rear or the Front of the Car.
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Old 06-15-2011, 04:04 PM
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Heat

one of the first repairs i attempted on my 1972 220d was to renew the thermostat. what i didn't know at the time was the housing is pot metal and the wrong coolant (green) only accelerates the corrosion. two of the four bolts snapped off.

after removing the housing i heated the other two bolts and got them out fine. the housing itself was too corroded and could not be saved.

ever since, when removing the bolts on thermostats, i generously apply penetrating fluid (kroil) and heat. with any luck you'll be able to salvage the housing and drill out the broken bolt. good luck!
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  #9  
Old 06-15-2011, 04:59 PM
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Ya the car made is home just fine. It's not leaking one bit. There's still a piece of the bolt holding that section of the thermostat housing together. Ya the car was full of green fluid.

I just always assume that people would look at my signature. It's a 1984 300TD euro.

Does anyone know if this housing will fit my car??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230630551894&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123

I would have to remove the WHOLE housing (like pictured on that ebay listing) to be able to take the bolt out correct?
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Last edited by digieditny; 06-15-2011 at 07:46 PM.
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  #10  
Old 06-15-2011, 08:10 PM
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I think the eBay housing will fit your '84 and yes, you'll have to remove the housing from your engine to get at the stub end of the broken bolt.
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #11  
Old 06-15-2011, 08:44 PM
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Appreciate the response Jeremy. I will go ahead and purchase!
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:00 PM
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If you can manage it, replace the green stuff with distilled water and Mercedes coolant or equivalent (I forget the name of the stuff). It will reduce (I hate to say "eliminate") the corrosion problems of the aluminum in the engine.
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #13  
Old 06-15-2011, 09:02 PM
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I already replaced it. I drained all the green stuff out before trying to remove the bolt. I refilled with the good stuff!
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  #14  
Old 06-15-2011, 10:08 PM
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When I was faced with the same problem, and having to drive the car, I bought a tiny C-clamp and used it to clamp that corner of the housing together as a temporary fix. I safety-wired it to something nearby so it couldn't fall into the belts if it came loose.
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  #15  
Old 06-15-2011, 10:13 PM
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Great idea! I will do the same! Is it a pain to remove the whole housing?

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