JB Weld on oil cooler line? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JWJ · #1 06-16-2011, 05:57 PM

Recently, one of my oil cooler lines rubbed a small hole due to a bracket failing. It's a slow oil drip.

Would JB Weld be a good option for this?

Zulfiqar · #2 06-16-2011, 06:03 PM

do not trust JB weld to hold such a leak - if the metal has rubbed to a leak - better replace the metal or atleast get a hose pipe over it and tighten with clamps.

sixto · #3 06-16-2011, 06:06 PM

No.

Sixto
87 300D

leathermang · #4 06-16-2011, 06:07 PM

JBWeld BY ITSELF...... no..
but to hold on a patch like brass shim stock which I have mentioned before.... yes... clean the area, give it some roughness with flint sandpaper 100 grit.... mix the JBWeld according to instructions....
Is the leak at a spot on a regular round tube ... or in a bend ?

Orv · #5 06-16-2011, 06:11 PM

I don't remember what the maximum temperature limit for JB Weld is. If it's below 250F, you might need a high-temp epoxy.

leathermang · #6 06-16-2011, 06:25 PM

http://jbweld.net/faq.php

patbob · #7 06-16-2011, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orv

I don't remember what the maximum temperature limit for JB Weld is. If it's below 250F, you might need a high-temp epoxy.

JB Weld is good to 500 or 600 degrees F, so temperaturewise it should be OK for an oil line

But yeah, use it to hold on a metal shimstock patch or something if you just gotta use it. However, a splint and high temp hydraulic hose, like the flexible hoses to the cooler are made of, are probably a better juryrig fix.

JWJ · #8 08-02-2011, 07:45 AM

The splint and high temp hydraulic hose worked like a charm.

Thanks!

Diesel911 · #9 08-02-2011, 08:58 AM

If you have a small hole and there is room for it a short Sheet Metal Screw that has the threads and under the head coated with JB Weld would be adequate.
The screw needs to be large enough so that the threads bite into the metal and hold.
Do not over tighten it; snug it and let the JB Weld do the rest.

Since the Cooler is Aluminum a small hole could be Heliarc (spelling?) welded over.

(I have never used a Fluxcore Welder so do not know if that would work or not.)

Either way you need to use Aluminum rod for the weld.

TX76513 · #10 08-02-2011, 09:11 AM

I don't know guys - this is like putting a bandaid on your femoral artery. Failure is not a good thing

charmalu · #11 08-02-2011, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TX76513

I don't know guys - this is like putting a bandaid on your femoral artery. Failure is not a good thing

X-2.

This is a interesting read. there are hundreds of threads about replacing the hose ends with some crimped on by a hydraulic shop, to cutting off the crimp ends and slipping on a hose with a clamp.

All the knashing of teeth and wringing of hands of the horror of the hose bursting. popping off and loosing all your oil and destroying your engine.

now I read to use JB weld, hose clamp. shim stock etc...

there is one clamp at the AC mount bracket. if it has been long enough to wear a hole in the pipe, the other pipe is probably close by.
why not just replace them? I know, Pricy. but so is a replacement engine.

Charlie

leathermang · #12 08-02-2011, 11:07 AM

There are lots of times and various reasons when one fix or another is chosen instead of what you would call ' full out legit '...

IF the physics and procedures are correct... the fact that the ' restoration' mindset is not in play will not affect the useability/reliability of the machine....

charmalu · #13 08-02-2011, 11:44 AM

Should work the same for AC, lil JB weld and a hose clamp.

sorry Greg, couldn`t resist.

that`s it, Iam outa here, shuttin down the computer, Iam off to Portland, see you tomarrow when the dust settles.

comon 240, Giddy up go

Charlie

panZZer · #14 08-02-2011, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

There are lots of times and various reasons when one fix or another is chosen instead of what you would call ' full out legit '...

IF the physics and procedures are correct... the fact that the ' restoration' mindset is not in play will not affect the useability/reliability of the machine....

Yup getting yourself home--or to a place advantageous enough to do it right.

Diesel911 · #15 08-02-2011, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

X-2.

This is a interesting read. there are hundreds of threads about replacing the hose ends with some crimped on by a hydraulic shop, to cutting off the crimp ends and slipping on a hose with a clamp.

All the knashing of teeth and wringing of hands of the horror of the hose bursting. popping off and loosing all your oil and destroying your engine.

now I read to use JB weld, hose clamp. shim stock etc...

there is one clamp at the AC mount bracket. if it has been long enough to wear a hole in the pipe, the other pipe is probably close by.
why not just replace them? I know, Pricy. but so is a replacement engine.

Charlie

He did say it was a small hole.
This means that if a patch was put over it and the patch failed he would be no worse off than He is now.
Meaning, that it the patch fell off the hole is not going to get bigger and suddenly start gushing Oil.

I am also one of the Folks who cut the crimped Collar off of my old Oil Cooler Hoses back in Sep, 2007 and replaced only the Hose itself. Since that time I had to re-tighen the Clamps on one of the Hose ends due to it looking wet/seeping. Other than that there has been to date no other problems.
So for me it has turned out to be a good repair.