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  #46  
Old 06-19-2011, 11:07 PM
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I recall reading somewhere that the early system kinda sucked anyways, Most people leave it be when it breaks. I think I read it somewhere on here.

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1987 300TD 311,000M Stolen. Presumed destroyed
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  #47  
Old 06-20-2011, 01:26 AM
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Ghost of Diesels Past
 
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Posts: 13,285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro View Post
If the right rear wheel has significant negative camber compared to the left, but the ride-height for both sides is still about even, check the right rear trailing arm for damage. Either bent, or more commonly - rusted internally and cracked.

Happy Motoring, Mark
I'll double check. The car has no serious rust at all. Just a spot on the left rear where water sprays from the tires during the rain. If it was hit there would have been considerable damage to that side in the trunk and frame rails and I saw no evidence of stress or cutting/welding. It may just be a collapsed shock(79mercy suggested that). It's not massive camber, just noticeable enough. I'll take a pic tuesday when I go over the car.

When I drove it home I had no issues with it. The car didn't wander, shimmy, shake, etc. It handled fairly well for what is probably all original suspension.
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  #48  
Old 06-20-2011, 02:38 AM
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Join Date: May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadahar View Post
My 1977 does not have cruise, but it is a bare bones car. manual windows and seat. Did MB install Cruise in 4 speed cars back in the 70's and 80's??? I don't think they did.
Something about not being able to assure a speed cut down in the event of a needed downshift.
One of the 240D's i tore into at the Pick'nPull earlier this spring in search of a good crankshaft was a four speed with cruise control. I was kind of surprised to see it, but there it was. I don't know if it was a grey market car, or built for the U.S.; I wasn't paying much attention except in passing.

Kurt
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- '79 240D - engine swap complete! Engine broken in! 28-31 mpg! Lovin' the ride!
- '86 190D (W201-126) - 2.5 NA engine, 5 speed, cloth interior, manual climate controls, 33-34 mpg (sold to forum member).
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  #49  
Old 06-20-2011, 05:36 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
I'll double check. The car has no serious rust at all. Just a spot on the left rear where water sprays from the tires during the rain. If it was hit there would have been considerable damage to that side in the trunk and frame rails and I saw no evidence of stress or cutting/welding. It may just be a collapsed shock(79mercy suggested that). It's not massive camber, just noticeable enough. I'll take a pic tuesday when I go over the car.

When I drove it home I had no issues with it. The car didn't wander, shimmy, shake, etc. It handled fairly well for what is probably all original suspension.
Its possible to hit a curb and bend the big a arm without touching the body. My lovely number two daughter did this in one of my 240d's..
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #50  
Old 06-20-2011, 08:15 AM
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I mentioned the rear trailing-arm because thats how I acquired my first 240D for $225.
Water had been trapped inside the left rear arm and it eventually rusted through, cracking near the spring-shock mount. Except for moving it a few feet to make sure the automatic tranny would go forward and back, I didn't even attempt to drive that car until after I had it towed home and replaced the bad trailing-arm. It was a rustbucket anyway and I wound up repairing the floors under both front seats and patching numerous other holes.
But the car was cheap, it had four new Michelins, and I wanted to learn about diesels.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #51  
Old 06-20-2011, 10:14 AM
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Location: Mount Holly, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadahar View Post
My 1977 does not have cruise, but it is a bare bones car. manual windows and seat. Did MB install Cruise in 4 speed cars back in the 70's and 80's??? I don't think they did.
Something about not being able to assure a speed cut down in the event of a needed downshift.
both my 5 speed 240 and my 4 speed 300 have cruise...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
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  #52  
Old 06-20-2011, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro View Post
I mentioned the rear trailing-arm because thats how I acquired my first 240D for $225.
Water had been trapped inside the left rear arm and it eventually rusted through, cracking near the spring-shock mount. Except for moving it a few feet to make sure the automatic tranny would go forward and back, I didn't even attempt to drive that car until after I had it towed home and replaced the bad trailing-arm. It was a rustbucket anyway and I wound up repairing the floors under both front seats and patching numerous other holes.
But the car was cheap, it had four new Michelins, and I wanted to learn about diesels.

Happy Motoring, Mark
I will inspect it with a fine tooth comb tomorrow. If anything I can easily get another trailing arm from anyone parting a car out here.
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  #53  
Old 06-20-2011, 11:33 AM
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^There is a 300D in the yard we went to last time with trailing arms still attached. Let me know if you need to borrow the spring compressor.
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  #54  
Old 06-20-2011, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colincoon View Post
^There is a 300D in the yard we went to last time with trailing arms still attached. Let me know if you need to borrow the spring compressor.
You don`t need the spring compressor for the rear springs. once the shocks are removed, cut the brake hoses, remove the upper link attachment to the sway bar. then loosen the 4 diff mount to body bolts, and when it drops down the springs will fall out. NOTE: this is when in the junk yard and no Jack.

Once the top of the shock is un bolted, the trail arm will drop down suddenly. then remove the lower 2 bolts.

when the 4 13mm bolts on the diff mount are removed, the diff will drop down a foot or so, really fast. usually the PNP cars are up on welded rims, so up high. keep your head out of the way .

Hey Joe, is that rust along the lower edge of the deck lid? looks like it these pictures.
TheDon Bought a 240D

You mentioned "Cheap 240D Club". you can get much cheaper than I did with our 80 240D. Lady gave it to us 16 months ago. and was orig owner.
It has cruise, but won`t hold. will speed up when moving the stalk.

You have a nice looking car.


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #55  
Old 06-20-2011, 02:29 PM
TheDon's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colincoon View Post
^There is a 300D in the yard we went to last time with trailing arms still attached. Let me know if you need to borrow the spring compressor.
hmmmm, well if need be we could drop the subframe. But I will let you know.
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  #56  
Old 06-20-2011, 02:31 PM
TheDon's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
You don`t need the spring compressor for the rear springs. once the shocks are removed, cut the brake hoses, remove the upper link attachment to the sway bar. then loosen the 4 diff mount to body bolts, and when it drops down the springs will fall out. NOTE: this is when in the junk yard and no Jack.

Once the top of the shock is un bolted, the trail arm will drop down suddenly. then remove the lower 2 bolts.

when the 4 13mm bolts on the diff mount are removed, the diff will drop down a foot or so, really fast. usually the PNP cars are up on welded rims, so up high. keep your head out of the way .

Hey Joe, is that rust along the lower edge of the deck lid? looks like it these pictures.
TheDon Bought a 240D

You mentioned "Cheap 240D Club". you can get much cheaper than I did with our 80 240D. Lady gave it to us 16 months ago. and was orig owner.
It has cruise, but won`t hold. will speed up when moving the stalk.

You have a nice looking car.


Charlie
It's actually the paint flaked off. It's all original paint from what I can tell
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  #57  
Old 06-20-2011, 02:41 PM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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well keep an eye on it. I have 3 little places about the size of my pinky finger nail, that rust bubbling up under the molding along there. It is coming off real soon and get stopped in it`s tracks.

Charlie.
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #58  
Old 06-21-2011, 01:54 AM
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Well, I bought a tan 81 240D like TheDon's the other day. It's now got 160K on the odo and the odo's workin'. It has a fine interior except for cracked dash and twisted seatbelts. Didn't even have wrinkles in the door tex. Sits up nice and high, runs like a top, auto and shifts well. Drives strait and tight but with some knocking when the steering is turned.

Damage on both front fenders, hood and passenger door. Otherwise sound in body.

$840 USD. I think I got a good deal and mom's gonna love it.

Wish I had TheDon's 240D hubcaps and undented body.
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  #59  
Old 06-21-2011, 10:39 AM
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Washed the car and cleaned the door jambs. I did notice the car was wired to tow something and the hitch was missing. That could be why the rear has some negative camber. I will have to get new tires for this car soon. If I can just swap on my ole CLK wheels I will be ok for a bit longer.

pics below with comments


Do I need longer lugs for the CLK wheels or spacers, etc?


I got under the car and noticed that unlike my previous W123 this one was not covered in oil on the underside and the car only left a spot the size of a quarter over the span of a few days.

The shifter likes to bind when going from 2nd to 3rd. When it was hung up I got under the car and saw that the bushings on the shifter end were gone. That could be possibly why it binds. The bushings on the transmission end were fine. The whole shifter mechanism could probably use a rebuild to be freshened up.

I haven't figured out why the idle adjust knob doesn't work.

I need to clean the tex, what should I use to clean it. Tell me what I need to get and use.

There is no structural rust at all. The car is very solid.




what ever this is in the engine needs attention


before

clean-er!


rear


right


left
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  #60  
Old 06-21-2011, 11:37 AM
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Location: Central FL
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Wow, that thing is really eating tires more than it would seem from the amount of camber in the picture. Are you sure these weren't swapped from the front? That looks more like tow (on the left side, the right is basically normal, but the ass end sits high)

That top pic is part of the Rube Goldbergian EGR setup that needs to go, IMO.

Quote:
I haven't figured out why the idle adjust knob doesn't work.
You DO realize that you need to mash the go pedal slightly before you try to turn the idle control, right?

Quote:
The shifter likes to bind when going from 2nd to 3rd. When it was hung up I got under the car and saw that the bushings on the shifter end were gone. That could be possibly why it binds. The bushings on the transmission end were fine. The whole shifter mechanism could probably use a rebuild to be freshened up
You said it. Do yourself ( or your stepdad) a favor and pull the shifter out of its hole and see whats going on with it. My guess is that the problem you describe is that the "top hat" on the crossshaft of the shifter mechanism is missing/crumbled to dust. The parts are peanuts to buy and the enjoyment factor will go up immeasurably once this is sorted. I can shift mine with two fingers. If you can't wait to get the parts, you can just rebush with PVC pipe (3/4" IIRC) and I think I used vinyl tubing on the levers below. Take it all apart and lube it and it will be good to go for 20 years.

Rick

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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