hey guys so i have a 99 e300 td and i love it. engine is in great shape however im having a few minor prolems.

1.when i sit idle or drive alot of stop and go, my coolant temp raises way past 80 degrees... but on highway its right at 80...both condensing fans are working...any ideas?

2. the recline button wont bring the recliner forward it just goes back either way i push the button, but when i hit the memory button it does go up? any iodeas on that?

3. my passenger window seems to get off track but if i hold it straight it will go up or down no problem...is this a regulator problem or motor?

4. lastly i keep getting a lamp defective message however i replacced the burnt out driving bulb, but the socket it goes in seemed to be broken around the edege of it...could this be the problem?

i know thats alot of questions but thanks in advance for the support

Hi, I think I can offer a few solutions:

1. Your viscous coupling is low on fluid. Either replace the clutch or re-fill it. There are threads on the procedure here and a search should provide the info you need.

2. Your seat needs to be re-synced. Press and hold the "seat forward" button (while standing outside the car) until the seat slides all the way forward. When the seat stops, continue holding the button for about a 5 second count.

3. Sounds like the window track is broken or in need of adjustment. I've never done this one before.

4. The lamp holders on these cars are really poor quality. I chase that lamp warning constantly on my car. Many times, there will be an initial lamp out condition but by the time I get out and check things over, it has come back on. I have heard that the '02 rear lamp housings are an improved design and will bolt right in.

Hope this helps!

__________________
-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

wow thanks so much im lending the car to a customer while i work on hers but i cant wait to get it back and try these things...its my first mb, my first diesel, and i love it already...minus the old man gold color lol

one more question..on the fan clutch. ever since the little overheat ive been having i also have been having warm ac at slow driving....i evacuated and recharged and it made no difference..this has only been happening since the overheat problem has been happening...do you think theyre related

Very related. The AC can't cool the cabin without airflow through the condenser.

Sixto
87 300D

You can monitor coolant temp via the CCU while driving. Press and hold REST for 5 secs then toggle to screen 6 using the AUTO buttons. Idiot gauge has a built in dead sopt between ~90-100C; digital readout always reports accurately.

At ~95C the fan clutch should begin to lock up and Aux fans should come on at low rpm stop and go driving with AC on as coolant temp rises. When locked up, the fan clutch should sound like a 747 taking off when you give it throttle.

Cleaning the rad and condenser fins, etc may help. May need to disassemble the rad crossmember in order to separate them.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Thanks!! How do I know what the other 40 some odd numbers mean when I press the rest button just curious

I'm having aux. fan problems too. I was getting a 30 code. I cleaned the electrical connection in the front top of fan unit and now I get a 27 code. I tried a search to find what codes men, but didn't have any luck.

__________________
1998 E300Turbodiesel
1980 300d

Ready- Ronnie

Click on all links and charts in this article.
http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic40142.html

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

well the fan clutch fixed nothing...waste of 130 dollars... but now my compressor smokes from the clutch when engaged...yay time to resurface the clutch

There is smoke from the clutch? Is the compressor rpm sensor disabled? I don't think a clutch can smoke. It's probably the belt slipping on the compressor pulley.

And are you saying your engine continues to run hotter than normal with the new fan clutch? It might be straining against a seized compressor. How strange that some system or other hasn't cut the compressor or thrown a failure code.

Sixto
87 300D

So.... what is the ambient temp when the AC is on and this happens and how hot is "hot"? What was your overheat situation you've alluded to all about?

In my expirience, when its 95-110f outside and you are curising the freeway at 80mph & 80-85C, and then get off into stop and go traffic, it's pretty typical for coolant temps to head up to 90-95c (even 100c) in a hurry and for the fan clutch and Aux fans to begin to engage.

Mine has never gone above 105C even when its hit 110F in stop and go traffic after a freeway run. Of course the AC is on.

My fan clutch, aux fans, and thermo are all original.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

ok well i ran the ac diag and the rubber arouind the compressor clutch is whats smoking...u know those denso compressor clutches have rubber almost like a harmonic balancer and its the original 12 year old compressor lol

i have another problem...the chrom bezel that goes over the ignition where the key goes in came off...how do i reattach that

On the ignition switch, is it just wallowing around in the column? If so, mine was the same way. I just put the key in it, turned it one click and gently pulled out on it so I could screw the bezel back on.

__________________
-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

The overheating and AC seem to be linked - my car loses refrigerant slowly. Have to charge it every year at about this time, but I have yet to experience the situation you described. Does the car overheat if you push the "economy" button? That should shut the compressor off.

The window is guided in tracks with plastic runners that can fail if the grease takes on a lot of dirt and dust over time. The end symptom is the mechanism fails. I have replaced the rear window operating mechanism, but not the fronts. Kind of a cheesy set up on the rears.

I have found the light bulb that illuminates the rear license plate is the one that fails and is most difficult to detect. Huge pain to replace as well - you get to it from behind the bulb under the trunk lid liner. Anyway, it is on the circuit to trip the dash warning, and it is not that apparent (there are two of them) when you walk around the car to inspect bulbs.

Good luck,

Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)