YMMV

Sorry but this is bad advice. Hydraulic systems should always be purged slowly. Fast breaks up big bubbles into tiny bubbles which do not purge as easily and then coalesce back into big ones.



To the OP. Next time always start with the clutch slave. Its cheaper, easier and more likely to fail due to constant exposure.. Also suspect the metal/rubber hose inbetween as well as the rubber hose from the booster to the master clutch cylinder.

As far as bleeding the system, pretty sure I use 1/8" or so hose. I have found that plastic zip ties apply just enough pressure to keep the hoses on the nipples.

Well, went to the mechanic this AM to pick the car up. Paid him, went to move the car. Noticed that the clutch has about half its travel in free play. Tried to put it in reverse -- griiiiiiiind. All the other gears felt "tight" going in as well. Guess they didn't bleed the thing properly after all, and they have the car to play with for another day.

Glad I paid with a CC not cash!

I know I've posted this a couple of times before but it does seem to me that many here are masochists when it comes to bleeding the clutch system:rolleyes:.If you enjoy suffering please ignore this post:).


The method of pressure bleeding from the front brake caliper is most unsatisfactory for a number of reasons:

a) You are filling the clutch system with dirty fluid from the caliper.

b) As the front of the slave is inclined upwards on level ground (much worse on ramps) an air bubble is trapped at the front of the cyl. not purged when bleeding and can remain there giving a soft low pedal.

c) The whole procedure is a time consuming P.I.T.A. and completely unnecessary.

There is a much easier and quicker way to R & R and bleed the slave cyl.

1) Remove clutch feed pipe from brake M/C and drain reservoir. Replace feed pipe and refill to max with new fluid.

2) Remove pipe from slave cyl. and cap the pipe end with one of the bleed nipple rubber cups.

3) Undo bolts and remove slave.

To re-insall:

1)Thoroughly bench-bleed the slave leaving the push rod fully extended. Ensure all bubbles are out and fluid is filled level with the top of the pipe connection.

2) Remove the rubber cup and let at least an eggcup full of fresh fluid drain down to replace old fluid in clutch M/C and then replace and tighten pipe connection. Don’t pump the pedal!.

3)As the piston is pushed back in as you bolt the slave back on any air still in the pipe is pushed back up and through the M/C. Let it stand at least 15 mins before pumping pedal SLOWLY!.

4) Top up the reservoir and you’re done!

If fitting new slave and M/C:
1a) After fitting new clutch M/C, [U]re-set pedal free play[‘U]. Before connecting pipe to slave, fill res. and when fluid is running right through, cap pipe end as before. Let it stand for 10 to 15 min and gravity does the job. DON’T pump the pedal! Reconnect slave as in (2) and (3).]

The system is self-bleeding anyway but the trick is to get all the air out of the slave piston before re-installing it.

^^^

Is there a mechanical free play adjustment on one of the cylinder linkages? If so, where?

Yes, a eccentric bush on clutch pedal connection to master cyl. push rod. Its not critical but should be around 5mm free play to expose the bleed port when M/C push rod is fully extended.

The bolt that connects the clutch M/C pushrod has an eccentric insert

Yes it has and the eccentric bush has a hex head that can be turned when fitting the pin to adjust free play.

I haven't tried purging it Beagle's way ( last time I had to mess with it, I don't think he had posted his method), but it makes perfect sense to me. Next time , I will do this.

Thanks! Passed that info on to the mechanic. I'm really getting disenchanted with the guy. This is why I DO 99% OF MY OWN DAMN WORK -- because I generally get it right the first time, since I have a vested interest in not getting stranded in the middle of nowhere.

Frankly, I didn't want to deal with an under car issue myself, but I should have driven the car to my old mechanic in NJ (who I know well and is actually competent) late at night. Once I got on the highway, lack of clutch pedal wouldn't have been a problem!

Aargh.</vent>

OK - he finished the clutch before the 4th weekend. New master and slave, $450+tax in his bank account :) It did take him quite a while to get the pedal feel right, guess you guys were right that he'd hate me before it was over and done with.

$450 in NYC? It could been worse....

I disagree, Your theory may have merit but I have bled allot of MB clutch systems and doing the "fast" pump method has always worked. Tiny bubbles may have been produced but to no ill effect that I could see.

Rate was $85/hr, not out of line with shops outside NYC that I've seen.

Failed master cylinders, soft pedals etc etc. Of course, if fast and hard pumping makes your master cylinder (brake or clutch) fail then its probably just as well. When you say worked, you had rock hard pedals? I have done it both ways and found that slow and steady makes for the hardest pedals.

Humm, My brake pedal has always been firm after clutch bleeding, as firm as it was before bleeding and I havent replaced a brake master cylinder in years. When pumping I dont mash the brake pedal all the way to the floor, just fast short strokes:P

I'm set up with the oil can for next time however, seems like that method might be even easier. It will be interesting to see if I gain a harder pedal bleeding as you describe or using the oil can. Not fast pumping.