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  #46  
Old 09-25-2016, 10:46 AM
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Beagle I don't understand your method... the way you describe it makes me think i'll end up with fluid everywhere in a big mess.

My clutch seems to not "come back up" after i press it down to disengage it and change gears...

and if the car has been sitting overnight or i've been on the highway for an hour, and i come to my exit and go to shift down a gear...

I press the clutch pedal and it doesn't have enough force or something to come back up ?


Any ideas ?

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  #47  
Old 09-25-2016, 11:49 AM
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So it is de coupling the clutch when you need it to.... no grinding , etc......but the pedal does not come back up to it proper position ?
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  #48  
Old 09-25-2016, 04:47 PM
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If you push it too far it might get stuck. Had that problem with mine. Seems the pedal can go over centre with the spring holding it down...
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1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

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  #49  
Old 09-25-2016, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
So it is de coupling the clutch when you need it to.... no grinding , etc......but the pedal does not come back up to it proper position ?

I have No grinding.

But i cannot change gear when pedal stays 'down', whatever gear it is in when it loses pressure it stays in until i 'stall' the car, then it pops back into neutral freely.

Then after stalling and placing into neutral, i pump the clutch 6 times and pressure rebuilds and i can use the clutch like normal again for a short time...

I will be checking master and slave cylinder for leaks ( visual / physical expection from the outside )

Then i will be re-bleeding the clutch. Using this tip

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Drp055fCBRU
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  #50  
Old 09-26-2016, 12:08 AM
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So it isn't actuating the clutch then.

As a tip you can blip the juice pedal and that takes the load off the gears for you flick the stick into neutral.

Would pay to look into new master and/or slave cylinder as either could have stuffed seals and be leaking internally (well the master at least).
__________________
1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

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  #51  
Old 09-26-2016, 06:33 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 186
felt around the master cylinder and couldn't find any wetness around the rubber :/

couldn't get under the car today as my friend has my stands :/
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  #52  
Old 09-26-2016, 08:35 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Buffalo NY
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The seals on these MCs and slaves are not forever seals, nor are the MC's. On my W201 190D, and W123 240D I've done some work. Looking at my w123 300D manual, the cylinders and arrangement are superficially the same at least.

The clutch/brake pedal cluster comes out for service as an assembly. There's a safety pin that is a little trouble coming out until you look at it and see how it wants to go.

(on the 201 at least) the brake light switch is adjustable, but only one way 1/4 turn in and out with a safety tab. Remove it and save yourself some trouble before you take the above pin out.

The input shaft on the MC for my W201 broke=drive home no clutch. Had to stall it more than 3X. Starter was sufficient for a standing start in 1st.

The pedal cluster from my 201 parts car swapped OK, but take care when pulling the plastic barb out for the fill line out of the MC, it could break, then, sad face and more work.

The dry replacement MC bled in a few minutes. I took care not to let the line to the slave drain when pulling the MC, topped it off w/ brake fluid and screwed it into the new MC. A combination of gravity fill from the brake reservoir, pumping and bleeding at the bottom of the MC did it.

The seal on the replacement MC may have dry rotted, or may just be used up. After a couple months, it will disengage the clutch, but not hold it for long. Could be a problem at the slave as well.

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