We're going over the car with a fine tooth comb and at Saturday's diesel meet George C and I did a suspension check and with John looking on. We saw the rear of my beloved wagon continue to stay down. Now, I will replace what needs to replaced to get this function to operate properly but I don't want to replace the whole setup at once.

My question:

How, if it can be done, do I check each individual component?

thanks in advance,
Andrew

Andrew,

Before you start replacing components, make sure the levelling valve is adjusted correctly. You might just need to take in some length of the linkage to compensate for the low height. Those hydraulic pumps don't fail often, but if it is for sure dead, figure about $550 for a new one. Have you looked at the struts for any leaks? If you don't see any externally, they may be leaking internally. With any of these hydrauli suspensions, you always open up a can of worms when you begin working on them.

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Regards,
Aaron

That is what I thought also.. is there some way to throw away that can of worms and install something straight forward ? I would not have to have self leveling... just easy to maintain and reasonable cost... any suggestions... surely someone has figured out something in this line... so I don't have to .... Greg

I guess you could potentially convert the rear end to coil springs and shocks, like a W123 sedan. Of course the cost and effort might not be justifiable. It could be cheaper to just repair the leveling.

IMHO, the self-leveling is a very nice feature on the wagons (and some of the S-Class cars). I wish our 380SE had it because when we pack four people in it and go on long trips, that rear end sure sags! My 6.9 has hydraulics all-round with leveling at the rear end, but that car is not cost-effective to drive on long trips. You wind up throwing most of your vacation money down the throttle body!

Anyhow, if I were you, I would look into repairing the hydraulics before conversion. Remember too, that conversion may make your car less valuable to a potential buyer later on down the line.

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Regards,
Aaron

Aaron, look at what you said above...when the pump goes out... big bucks... these cars already have coil springs.... one combo might be those adjustable air shocks which are controlled by electrical switch by the driver....

Andrew,

Start off by putting the rear up on ramps and while motor is running (trans in park/brake on/ wheel chocks), crawl under and check the linkage to the controller by moving it up and down. I popped the likage off and just operated the lever off the controller to really see how it worked.

Your car sits & ride is fine, so I doubt that there are any leaks, my guess is that it is the linkage.

My first wagon sat for almost two years before I bought it, like yours, mine also didn't budge when weight was loaded in the rear. Thats when I fiddled with the linkage & silicone sprayed every moving part that was involved. That cured it.

I only wished that I would've remembered to bring my ramps on Saturday...

~George~

George, Aaron

Thanks for the plan of attack. George, I remember you mentioning the linkage on Saturday. I will go out and get some ramps and take a look at what is going on down there. Hopefully just something stuck or out of whack. I'll keep you posted.

thanks again,
Andrew

I wish that you had brought the ramps as well. Both for Andrew's benefit and the sheer humor associated with having a "diesel meet photo" of 8 to 10 legs sticking out from under the car, while we all crawl under together to look, diagnose and argue.

My wife pointed out that the pictures of us wandering around the parking lot, hoods up, engines running, gawking at engine components painted a grim picture. The under the car shot would have put her over the edge and probably landed me in a rehab center.

I told her, just smile and smell the smoke.

Good luck

JCD

There is a lever on the rear sway bar with pinch bolts holding it in place. This lever operates the linkage to the valve that Aaron was talking about. Loosen the pinch bolts, move the lever to the position that gives you the desired ride height while on level ground, then retighten the pinch bolts. I'll bet this cures the problem.

Good luck,

I purchased ramps last night and hopefull will be making the adjustment this weekend. I will let you know how it turns out.

thanks for all the info.
Andrew

Andrew, If they are the 'pressed steel ' ramps be sure and check to see that they are appropriate for keeping you safe under the car... or in the alternative, would you leave me your 300td? Greg

The ramps seem to be extremely well built. I tend not to cheap out on tools, supplies, and etc.

Hopefully the ramps will hold with no problems. But in the event of a total break down my wife would be happy to get rid of the car quickly.... I've instructed her to only sell for "top dollar". She proceeded to say that a gift to charity would be a better write off than selling it.....

She loves to rib me...

I'm in the phone book if you find my name in the obituaries.

later,
Andrew

Boards like these should have obits themselves... it would be a long time before most of us would hear of your demise... some stranger down the street would have already picked over your goodies...
Do check to see if they say " ok for people to be underneath car while on the jacks' or something to that effect... they may say NOT for use with someone under the car.. those can squash you with no prior notice a failure is about to occur...Greg

Well, I put the hot rod up on the ramps and found that linkage connected to what I can only guess is the switch/pump for the rear suspension. I removed the linkage after spraying it heavily with WD40. I moved the arm on the pump up to see what happens and the rear suspension rose to the occasion. Ain't it cool..... Anywho, I found the adjustment on the controller arm and tightened up really well. The car now sits just above level and pumps up when I plant my ass on the rear bumper. Ye Ha!!!!

After that I fidled with the throttle linkage and the alda. Now the car gets up and goes! :

I even got to break mad: a vacuum line which I found out controlled the ignition shutoff switch (Fixed with super glue and a nice new flexible hose). I also took the time to replace the fuel filters.

It is truly amazing how much you can learn about these things after you break them!

thanks again for everyones help. This forum has been worth its weight in gold!!

Andrew

It is nice when things 'pump up' properly and 'rise to the occasion'... I hope my 81 wagon does the same thing soon.