Important part ID: that cylinder is your oil filter housing.

Pressure washer and degreaser.

Welcome to the forum.

Thank you all for your help. My car is actually a 1983 300D turbo, not the 300SD I had originally thought.

I took the cracked turbo oil supply line to a local industrial hose shop in Temecula , CA (name is top-line). They silver soldered over the crack and it is holding up great. Part number for that piece is 617 180 09 27 or 617 180 13 27

I ordered a new central vacuum plug from a local dealer (part # 617 070 02 30) as mine was cracked in several places.

A new radiator expansion tank cap ( 123 501 02 15 )

A new rod that connects the cruise control to the throttle assembly ( 617 070 30 75 )

And a new Throttle bushing Pivot mount (123 300 13 40 )

Thank you all again for the help, I now use the EPC (electronic parts catalog) and got my hands on a copy of WIS 2006 (that I have no clue how to use, hah)

That vac plug is part of the egr system and can be completely eliminated, too bad it's new.

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

So I should just unplug all those vacuum lines that go into the plug?

I have seen people Silver Solder or use Brass Brazing rod to braze up cracks in Tubing before. The repairs do not hold up.

What ever caused the Steel Tube to Crack (the metal crystallizes due to the flexing or vibration) will eventually cause the same to happen with the Solder or Brazing job; which is not as strong as the Steel Tube was.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

See post #10.
Vacuum Hose simplification

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

as far as the cruise control arm being disconnected: i had to disconnect mine on my old SD because when i first got the car i was playing around with the switches and i hit the cruise lever (car in Drive and idling in a parking lot)...it just took off with WOT..hit both feet on the brake and had enough sense to turn the key off...very scary. i guess something went haywire in the actuator or amplifier...never looked further into it even thought i did a lot of interstate driving back then...just something to consider before reattaching that arm

Right on. There were several lines that were capped off or missing. Thank you for that.

After reading your comment I opted not to connect the cruise control arm to the throttle assembly.

Now THAT will cause a severe pucker in the nether regions.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Well now, blanket absolute statements like ' The repairs do not hold up' are a little broad... condemning physical products instead of examining the Technique applied to the situation.

Silver soldering, Brazing and JBWeld are like Paint Jobs.... the PREP and POLISH out are 95 percent of the job...

As I have described lately in the thread about fixing the AC condensor where the holes were in the main tube at the side.. places where some access is allowed... where they can be removed to clean...are perfectly acceptable..and often very cost effective and convenient.

First the cause of the break or split has to be determined if one expects these products to last.

If a support brace is missing and you do not replace that... then a patch of anything is not going to fix it... even welding with the same kind of metal.. particularly since welding takes away the original special physical properties which might have been applied to the situation... almost always it increases the potential of corrosion ... This is why I argue against butt welding of new floor pans into cars... preferring overlapping lips ( and who does not prefer overlapping lips ?) and a combo of holes allowing plug welding and the application of proper ( solid if access is allowed ) rivets at proper intervals...remember.... the planes you fly in are not welded together.. they are riveted ...

You have to determine if something else is causing the problem... and fix that first.... lately on Weldingweb.com someone asked about fixing an oil pan in place... I assumed that it was a one time deal and he hit something... oil pans are not under pressure... so it is possible to use JBWeld sometimes... later in the thread he reveals that this chunk of pan was knocked out by HIS FRONT AXLE... he had swapped in an engine whose oil pan did not allow full travel of his front axle without colliding with the oil pan...a NEW OIL PAN will not fix that situation... the next big bump...and he has another chunk out of the pan.. You have to address the original problem or these things are not going to work.

Cleanliness is important... you can't take this lightly and expect the fix to work... and there are different techniques depending on the materials involved including what they are exposed to ...

SUPPORT is very important .. meaning that one should not expect a single layer of the solder, braze or JBWELD to hold pressure without spreading the load...
This means some kind of patch over the area which makes the pressure have to deal with a large area instead of the size the crack or hole is to begin with.... brass shim , another tube of the same diameter cut in half .. or a little larger than half, spread to go around the tube being fixed then squeezed to capture it... THEN SILVER SOLDER, BRAZE OR JBWELD IN THE SPACE ... JBWeld is particularly in need of being of a certain thickness to work properly..so a stand off can be engineered into the tube by bending in the ends slightly and duct tape can be used over that while the JBWeld is setting up to keep it under the patch ... it gets hot when setting and will slowly migrate downwards if not held a while.. it is not like a wood glue... but a good tight fit is great for the silver solder and brazing medium as long as you get the needed areas as hot as required...

One of the best examples of missing support is when someone has one of their steel fuel lines crack... you can bet that they are missing some of the support brackets which connect them together... they are subject to pulsing obviously and are going to crack unless supported some way...

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

The brakes could stop a WOT 300SD.....thats about 900-1000+hp of brakes vs. 125hp of engine.

with a 560 it'd be a scary experience

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)