My W123 617.952 Engine Swap Thread - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dieseldan44 · #46 08-04-2011, 03:39 PM

I dont quite get how this is done - so I dont know what bolts to buy.

Are they going to thread into the engine itself?

A pic would of a 617 showing the mounting on a stand mean a thousand words here :-)

boneheaddoctor · #47 08-04-2011, 03:52 PM

I can see if I can get to mine to take a pic tonight.....we are getting rain on and off and its shoehorned next to a car I have the glass out of and in primer at the moment I can't move.

I have long high strength metric bolts and nuts I happened to have (equal to a SAE grade 8) that go THROUGH the engine plate and have washes and several nuts on them. I believe in overkill. having it drop to the concrete would break a lot of stuff.

andrewjtx · #48 08-04-2011, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

having it drop to the concrete would break a lot of stuff.

Yeah, like the concrete.

DeliveryValve · #49 08-04-2011, 05:55 PM

The easy way is to attach the engine stand to the intermediate plate because you can leave the flywheel intact... But... If you want to turn the motor upside down, you might not be able to do it because it would be so top heavy. And if you are able to get turned over, you'll might not get it right side up because the weight would now be at the bottom.

If you need the motor turned upside down, you'll need remove the flywheel and intermediate plate. Then bolt the stand directly to the four intermediate plate holes on the block. By doing so will raise the pivot point on the block and effectively balance the motor so you can turn it over easily.

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DeliveryValve · #50 08-04-2011, 06:26 PM

Pictures.

Stand attached to intermediate plate.

Courtesy of konstan

Stand attached to the block. Block upside down.

Courtesy of konstan

Picture of my harbor freight stand attached to the block. Had to put the arms in different positions to attach it because the stand flange is too wide.

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boneheaddoctor · #51 08-04-2011, 06:37 PM

Here are two pictures...

dieseldan44 · #52 08-04-2011, 09:32 PM

Thank you guys! That explains it perfectly.

Do you happen to know the bolt sizes you used?

The compulsion to reapir EVERYTHING is STRONG when the engine is out. Im fighting the urge to replace everything. How to cope?

boneheaddoctor · #53 08-04-2011, 09:44 PM

Not sure, they were spare suspension bolts for a Honda suspension I had that happened to be large and long enough I had handy. The head on mine was a 17mm, not sure the thread size...

I understand the urge........lets just say it took me a long time to get it under control......keeping track of what you are spending helps.....seeing that total helps dispel the thought its only a few bucks more. I'm an engineer and have a habit of going further than I need to or should on projects.

Stretch · #54 08-05-2011, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

Thank you guys! That explains it perfectly.

Do you happen to know the bolt sizes you used?

The compulsion to reapir EVERYTHING is STRONG when the engine is out. Im fighting the urge to replace everything. How to cope?

I used M10 threaded bar and cut to desired lengths.

I used the same coarse threads used on the transmission to adapter plate / block bolts. A couple of the threads in the top part of the OM617 are blind anyway... I'm guessing you'll be using at least one of them.

EDIT - if you choose to use threaded bar make sure it is 8.8...

Stretch · #55 08-06-2011, 12:11 PM

M10 thread size is required - I've just checked and edited the post above

dieseldan44 · #56 08-09-2011, 06:19 PM

OK, so I have swung the other direction with my engine swap.

I am now going to try to do as little 'obsessive compulsive preventative maintenance' to the engine while out of the car as I can and not add extra steps and time. As much as I would like to spend months with the engine, i need to get this done before winter.

For example, I was going to pull the manifolds, clean them and make them pretty. I have canceled that project. Likewise, Ill do the valve stem seals once the engine is back in the car etc.

Am I making a horrible mistake(s)?

At this point I dont have a clear reason to even mount the engine to the stand. I can do all the work I need where it lies on it's pallet.

boneheaddoctor · #57 08-09-2011, 06:24 PM

If you plan on cleaning the intake, and it likely has a LOT of goo inside it by now (its a dirty horrid job to do)...do it before you put the engine in....its a lot harder to do in the car, the attachment between the turbo and block are hell to get at. Same if you plan to put a block heater in it if it doesn't have one now, that's a lot easier with the manifolds off, but might be rough if its on a pallet....the plug can be pretty tight.

Walkenvol · #58 08-10-2011, 01:01 PM

Remove, clean, and reinstall my intake manifold with the motor on an engine stand along with removing the egr system including cutting a block off plate for the intake and cutting a round copper washer for the exhaust took me about 2 hours. Would that kill your build schedule? Sure is alot quicker while on the engine stand not to mention easier on the back.

Some folks appear to take considerable time to clean the intake manifold. The flame method took me about 5 - 10 minutes. Use the egr gasket on the intake manifold as a template. Drill 2 holes and cut the outline on a piece of scrape around 20 minutes. Flatten out a short piece of 3/4" copper pipe then cut it into the appropriate size circle to fit on the exhaust manifold. Secure it with the existing pipe bracket used to hold the egr pipe another 20 minutes. Bolt everything back together.

I'm more afraid of messing something up such that it doesn't run while changing seals and gaskets with the motor on a stand then I'm concerned with the time spent. You should be able to do everything you want in a good day.

Go for it!

dieseldan44 · #59 08-12-2011, 11:56 AM

OK, I went for it. Engine and trans are apart and engine mounted on a stand. the transmission is rolling around on a furniture dolly. Pics to come...

Question: When separating the engine and trans, I forgot about the bolts that connect the flex plate to the torque converter. I pulled on the trans a bit by hand and with an 18" prybar gently bit before I realized something was still connected and found I needed to undo those bolts. The trans was about 1/2" back from the engine at this point

the flex plate looks fine and not bent - is there any way to tell if I damaged it by possibly flexing it? Is it a super sensitive part?

Im acutely aware that if for some reason if that part breaks, i get to pull the engine again.

Im having a lot of fun with this now. Thanks for the encouragement.

Thanks,
dd

Stretch · #60 08-12-2011, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

OK, I went for it. Engine and trans are apart and engine mounted on a stand. the transmission is rolling around on a furniture dolly. Pics to come...

Question: When separating the engine and trans, I forgot about the bolts that connect the flex plate to the torque converter. I pulled on the trans a bit by hand and with an 18" prybar gently bit before I realized something was still connected and found I needed to undo those bolts. The trans was about 1/2" back from the engine at this point

the flex plate looks fine and not bent - is there any way to tell if I damaged it by possibly flexing it? Is it a super sensitive part?

Im acutely aware that if for some reason if that part breaks, i get to pull the engine again.

Im having a lot of fun with this now. Thanks for the encouragement.

Thanks,
dd

Remove the flex plate and place it on a flat surface - if you are short of nice surface tables and surface plates where you live a sheet of modern glass (even a window with modern glass) will help you out. Not as good as the real thing but hey this is a DIY!

Don't get the bolts mixed up with others (like someone I know who lives in Holland!) they are of a different strength than the normal ones. 10.8 if I remember correctly.