|
|
|
#61
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#62
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#63
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Quote:
Is there any need for loctite on any of these bolts? I also haven't been able to find torque specs for eventual reassembly in the FSM. dd
__________________
------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#64
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I think I have seen the information in the FSM somewhere - but I can't find it now. However Haynes says:- Torque converter bolt 42 Nm => 31 Ft-lbs And Transmission to engine bolts 10mm ... 55 Nm => 41 Ft-lbs 12mm ... 65 Nm => 48 Ft-lbs Torque converter drain plug 14 Nm => 10 Ft-lbs For these values the conversion between Nm and Ft-lbs seems believable - but watch out in that book some of the conversions are just wrong. Ft-lbs are roughly two thirds of the Nm value. Haynes does not mention Loctite.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#65
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
DD44, I have a large granite surface block if you want to check it. You will need to bring it here though because I don't feel like dragging it upstairs etc.. Probably 300lbs.
__________________
81 300D Turbo 190K sold 83 300sd 319K best $500 I ever spent-daily driverw/ 2 tank WVO set up |
#66
|
|||
|
|||
Hi guys
Here is a other idea on the engine stand and aluminum cleaning. This parts are just bead blasted. If you get them tumbled, they get even better. aDFa
__________________
76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25. 85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold ) 60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A. 88 560 SEL. Bought without engine and trans. Now powerd by 617A. 67 250 SE. Cuope. For resto or sale. 64 220SE. For resto. |
#67
|
||||
|
||||
Ooooooooooooooooo Does that ever look nice.
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#68
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Do you get a lot of powder forming on the surface?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#69
|
|||
|
|||
It holds up very well, no problems with powder, corrosion or discoloration.
Aftrer you finich cleaning the parts coat them with a dry silicon spray. Do not use high PH cleaners on the aluminum parts after you finish them , it will discolor the aluminum.
__________________
76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25. 85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold ) 60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A. 88 560 SEL. Bought without engine and trans. Now powerd by 617A. 67 250 SE. Cuope. For resto or sale. 64 220SE. For resto. |
#70
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Do you think sand blasting would also be an alternative? And what do you think about those clear coat sprays often used by car dealers who sell "one lady owner from new" vehicles? I mean this sort of thing => http://www.eastwood.com/ew-diamond-clear-gloss-bare-metal-aero-11-oz.html I'm a bit worried that I'd end up with flaky aluminium... well the aluminium wouldn't be flaking but the coating might.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#71
|
|||
|
|||
You should blast the aluminum parts with something sharper then glass beat first. Aluminum oxide works well, and you can use a higher pressure setting on the sand blaster.
It also takes care of baked on dirt or corrosion on parts like oil pans or intermediate plates, that glass beat alone would never remove. The aluminum has a rough grayish surface after the aluminum oxide treatment. Then use the glass beat, and just brush the surface. The drawback is that parts like oil filter housings and vacuum pumps must be completely disassemble before blasting, and cleaned up very well afterwards.
__________________
76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25. 85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold ) 60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A. 88 560 SEL. Bought without engine and trans. Now powerd by 617A. 67 250 SE. Cuope. For resto or sale. 64 220SE. For resto. |
#72
|
|||
|
|||
I would not use any coatings. They all become yellowish and flake, and there are a pain in the you know what to remove, even with a sand blaster.
The detailers around here put that stuff on your engine for some extra cash. Money well wasted.
__________________
76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25. 85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold ) 60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A. 88 560 SEL. Bought without engine and trans. Now powerd by 617A. 67 250 SE. Cuope. For resto or sale. 64 220SE. For resto. |
#73
|
||||
|
||||
Next Round of Progress...
Engine up on stand, manifolds and alternator off (see pics).
I need to install a block heater - note that on this car there is none. Is it possible/realistic to remove the block heater from the 'dead' engine? Or should I buy a new factory heater? Two of the manifold studs came out. How do I re-set them effectively? I didn't test my vacuum pump when the car was running. Is there an effective bench test? I think it was working fine, but 'now is the time'. Other than that, things are going well. My lift load balancer just got here, so its time to pull the other engine. I called around - nobody knows of anyone to 'hot tank' my intake manifold. I'm going to clean around the intake ports, but not go crazy. Slow and steady the project marches on...
__________________
------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#74
|
|||
|
|||
It is possible to change the block heater if you get it out of the block.
Sometimes it's easy, sometimes it's hart. A bigger problem could be the plug in your new engine. If it gives you a hart time, just hit it with a hammer. The goal is to compress the aluminum seal ring behind the plug, and loosen up the threads. Be aware, the hammer treatment may destroy the plug. A quick vacuum pump test. Stand a large socket upright and put the ball bearing of the vacuum pump into the (probably) 1/2" square of the socket. Put a finger over the outlet of the pump and push down on it 2 or 3 times. You should feel the pump sucking on your finger.
__________________
76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25. 85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold ) 60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A. 88 560 SEL. Bought without engine and trans. Now powerd by 617A. 67 250 SE. Cuope. For resto or sale. 64 220SE. For resto. |
#75
|
|||
|
|||
You could always do the redneck TDI intake manifold cleaning:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oet4qWeZuYA
__________________
'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto '19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled '21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition '95 E300d - SOLD '84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one '81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter |
Bookmarks |
|
|