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#1
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w123 SLS leveling question
I was messing around underneath and decided to start the car and push up on the adjusting bar that connects to the SLS valve. The car lifted up. When I let go of it, it went right back down. If I adjust that differently should the car ride at that higher position? Also, the car still bounces like a low rider. I have the new accumulators. Does it still sound like accuators before I install them? Pretty cool to actually see the suspension do something though.
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#2
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Yes, it should ride in the newly adjusted to position.
do not know answer to other questions...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#3
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OK...I read the write up about Adjusting Ride Height:
and it is awesome. Answers a lot of questions. But, the car still bounces over bumps and I was told that it would most likely be the accumulators. |
#4
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Almost certainly the accumulators. Got a new pair off eBay for ~160 US. Don't adjust the lever to set unloaded ride height.
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1996 E300 110,000 1985 300TD 212,000 1980 300D 238,000 |
#5
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Make sure you have the correct fluid in the system. Many cell failures are caused by some idiot putting atf or engine oil in the system.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#6
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Quote:
Soft wallowing bounce, or hard stiff bounce? Did you bleed the air out after replacing the accumulators? The best method I've found for bleeding is to loosen the hose connection on each hydraulic strut until only clear fluid is coming out, then correct the fluid level in the reservoir.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#7
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Still bad accumulators.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#8
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Ah, I re-read the OP and now I think he's saying that he bought them but hasn't installed yet...
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#9
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Install the spheres, bleed system, hit bumps and report back.
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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern" 1980 300TD 1983 300D Euro "China Cat" |
#10
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I am HAPPY to report that I installed the new accumulators this morning and the car rides so beautiful now its unreal. I don't feel any bumps at all. I still notice that the car tilts when taking a turn. I thought that the new accumulators would make it so that the car sits perfectly level even taking a harsh corner? But at least the ride is awesome. Now if I can just fix the clunking in the front end. I got replacement shocks for the front but can't take the old ones out. The bolts on the bottom are heavily corroded.
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#11
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Quote:
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#12
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Quote:
I think they work better when you put them under the car. Having them in the car in a box just doesn't do it.
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#13
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Body roll.
Stiffer (new) springs or a thicker torsion bar to reduce body roll.
Anyone know, off hand, if the 123 wagons have a thicker rear swaybar than the sedans? The front is thicker, correct? No nibbles on the TE, so I'm making a list of things that can easily be pulled before it goes to the crusher. I'll be keeping the front portion of the impeller shaft and the shift rods, for sure. Jay.
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On the road, currently: '83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!) '87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side" '87 300TD 225k mi. Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er |
#14
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suspensions really are not my thing. I would consider new springs if they were cheap enough and easy to install. i'm not looking for a project though. I'll just deal with it. I have a 2011 BMW 328i that I can take corners at 70mph with I can just take it easy with the Benz. It would be cool though!!
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#15
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Handling.
I had 16x8 wheels with 215 rubber on my '84 wagon and it railed! Nothing wrong with the handling on 123 chassis cars. The seats, however.... I fabbed some brackets and put sport seats from a 318is in the car. You'd be surprised what some bigger seat bolsters will do for your car's handling characteristics.
Jay
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On the road, currently: '83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!) '87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side" '87 300TD 225k mi. Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er |
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