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  #1  
Old 06-17-2011, 02:31 AM
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w123 SLS leveling question

I was messing around underneath and decided to start the car and push up on the adjusting bar that connects to the SLS valve. The car lifted up. When I let go of it, it went right back down. If I adjust that differently should the car ride at that higher position? Also, the car still bounces like a low rider. I have the new accumulators. Does it still sound like accuators before I install them? Pretty cool to actually see the suspension do something though.

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  #2  
Old 06-17-2011, 02:41 AM
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Yes, it should ride in the newly adjusted to position.
do not know answer to other questions...
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  #3  
Old 06-17-2011, 02:49 AM
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OK...I read the write up about Adjusting Ride Height:

and it is awesome. Answers a lot of questions. But, the car still bounces over bumps and I was told that it would most likely be the accumulators.
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  #4  
Old 06-17-2011, 06:39 AM
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Almost certainly the accumulators. Got a new pair off eBay for ~160 US. Don't adjust the lever to set unloaded ride height.
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  #5  
Old 06-17-2011, 07:29 AM
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Make sure you have the correct fluid in the system. Many cell failures are caused by some idiot putting atf or engine oil in the system.
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  #6  
Old 06-17-2011, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbozeke418 View Post
I was messing around underneath and decided to start the car and push up on the adjusting bar that connects to the SLS valve. The car lifted up. When I let go of it, it went right back down. If I adjust that differently should the car ride at that higher position?
Yes, but you would destroy the SLS control valve, an expensive piece to replace. When all the rear suspension bits are properly set up, measure from the center of the star in the middle of the wheel up to the lip of the fender. That should be 13 inches, +/- 0.5 inches.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbozeke418 View Post
Also, the car still bounces like a low rider. I have the new accumulators. Does it still sound like accuators before I install them?
Soft wallowing bounce, or hard stiff bounce? Did you bleed the air out after replacing the accumulators? The best method I've found for bleeding is to loosen the hose connection on each hydraulic strut until only clear fluid is coming out, then correct the fluid level in the reservoir.
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  #7  
Old 06-17-2011, 09:04 AM
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Still bad accumulators.
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  #8  
Old 06-17-2011, 09:45 AM
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Ah, I re-read the OP and now I think he's saying that he bought them but hasn't installed yet...
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'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #9  
Old 06-17-2011, 01:24 PM
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Install the spheres, bleed system, hit bumps and report back.
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  #10  
Old 06-17-2011, 04:00 PM
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I am HAPPY to report that I installed the new accumulators this morning and the car rides so beautiful now its unreal. I don't feel any bumps at all. I still notice that the car tilts when taking a turn. I thought that the new accumulators would make it so that the car sits perfectly level even taking a harsh corner? But at least the ride is awesome. Now if I can just fix the clunking in the front end. I got replacement shocks for the front but can't take the old ones out. The bolts on the bottom are heavily corroded.
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  #11  
Old 06-17-2011, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbozeke418 View Post
I am HAPPY to report that I installed the new accumulators this morning and the car rides so beautiful now its unreal. I don't feel any bumps at all. I still notice that the car tilts when taking a turn. I thought that the new accumulators would make it so that the car sits perfectly level even taking a harsh corner? But at least the ride is awesome. Now if I can just fix the clunking in the front end. I got replacement shocks for the front but can't take the old ones out. The bolts on the bottom are heavily corroded.
The SLS Gods say if you don't have a leak it's the accumulators. The SLS Gods are never wrong.
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  #12  
Old 06-17-2011, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
Ah, I re-read the OP and now I think he's saying that he bought them but hasn't installed yet...

I think they work better when you put them under the car. Having them in the car in a box just doesn't do it.
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  #13  
Old 06-18-2011, 12:00 AM
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Body roll.

Stiffer (new) springs or a thicker torsion bar to reduce body roll.

Anyone know, off hand, if the 123 wagons have a thicker rear swaybar than the sedans? The front is thicker, correct? No nibbles on the TE, so I'm making a list of things that can easily be pulled before it goes to the crusher. I'll be keeping the front portion of the impeller shaft and the shift rods, for sure.

Jay.
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  #14  
Old 06-18-2011, 03:36 AM
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suspensions really are not my thing. I would consider new springs if they were cheap enough and easy to install. i'm not looking for a project though. I'll just deal with it. I have a 2011 BMW 328i that I can take corners at 70mph with I can just take it easy with the Benz. It would be cool though!!
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  #15  
Old 06-18-2011, 11:44 AM
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Handling.

I had 16x8 wheels with 215 rubber on my '84 wagon and it railed! Nothing wrong with the handling on 123 chassis cars. The seats, however.... I fabbed some brackets and put sport seats from a 318is in the car. You'd be surprised what some bigger seat bolsters will do for your car's handling characteristics.

Jay

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On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er
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