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#1
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Condenser size (AC condenser)
I'm going with an aftermarket P-flow condenser and maybe 2 fans.
Original condenser: 23"X16" 360 sq. in New: 20"X14" 280 sq. in Original fan : 12" 113 sq. in New: 9 126 sq. in That's a big difference on the condenser size, maybe a 22" X 14" condenser? Any thoughts? Is the P-flow that much more efficient?
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My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... 1980 300SD 1980 300SD |
#2
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You are going to so much effort on everything else...
why would you not stick the biggest condensor you can shoehorn into that area in there ? Why would you be counting on it being that much more efficient to take up the slack... Are you moving to MinySota soon ?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#3
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Because I want to go with a condenser that already has the drier mounted and order from a company that I already have an account with...
I'm staying in Ga. for now... Looks like a 16" X 20" would fit. 330 sq in , vs 368 sq in.
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My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... 1980 300SD 1980 300SD Last edited by 1980sd; 06-29-2011 at 01:36 PM. |
#4
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I agree you should get the biggest condenser you can put in there. Don't get caught up on having the dryer/condenser combo because your loosing efficiency with the decrease in size.
.
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
#5
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Quote:
Not ' FAB ' as you claimed to be lately.....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#6
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16 x 20 looks like the best fit. Gotta have room on the end for the hoses/fittings.
I still haven't even started on the compressor mounting. It'll be in Thursday and I gotta be out of town thursday and friday... Ordered the condenser. I wanna start crawling OUT of this rabbit hole... I transcend FAB...
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My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... 1980 300SD 1980 300SD Last edited by 1980sd; 06-29-2011 at 07:54 PM. |
#7
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What you want...
Is A Mercedes Roof Rack with the Condenser mounted up there
36" X 48". (Have to have Extra long hoses, though.)
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#8
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I already have my solar WVO heater up there...
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My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... 1980 300SD 1980 300SD |
#9
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Quote:
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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles |
#10
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134 or R12?
If you're still R12 stick with the tube & fin.
This, according to my local AC shop. I just replaced mine with a tube & fin this spring. It was 100 here today and I was getting 45 at the vent. I'm running R12. Jeff
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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup 2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end |
#11
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I'm thinking about going back with 134a. It was working well before at low 40's taken at the center vent before my compressor clutch went out. Hopefully a modern compressor (Sanden 709) and a P-flow condenser(16 x 20) should at least make it as cool as it was before.
It could also flop... Which would really suck... The compressor has a label on it that says the oil is compatible with R12 and 134a. It has R12 valves on the back of the compressor head and I'll have 134a valves on the rigid tubes that fasten to the compressor so I guess I can charge with either. I'll check out the label and see what kind of oil it is.
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My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... 1980 300SD 1980 300SD |
#12
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I bought a can of R134a last week... it was $18......
so there isn't much advantage cost wise.... with everything upgraded it should cool fine...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#13
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does the replacement have more effective volume, even with less area?
Id imagine that the most important thing would be to have maximum refrigerant volume to maximze working fluid total heat capacity.
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#14
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Quote:
I couldn't find anything on volume. It'll be interesting comparing them side by side.
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My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... 1980 300SD 1980 300SD |
#15
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OK, if this system works when you are done, you have to do a real complete write up on it. Seriously, because I'm right behind you if it does!
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'82 300SD - Somewhere over 220k - Becoming reliable... |
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