w123 front shock replacement issues
I started a new thread here from my past one to narrow down another issue for my ongoing front suspension issues. I wanted to replace the front shocks in the car but the lower bolts seem to be rusted into the control arm and also have those tiny ridiculous torx head bolts. Does anyone have advice on how to remove them?
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You can get those fancy sockets that grip onto knackered hex heads. They might help.
To get more space to work on the screw head behind the shock remove the shock connection at the top (making sure you don't undo the internal parts of the shock by accident! This means hold a spanner on the flat whilst undoing the lock nut(s)) and lower the hub as far at it will go. If you are quick you should be able to get the top part of the shock out of the locating hole. |
Be careful reinstalling those little bolts. I had to drill and tap both of them in the passenger side LCA after they stripped way too easily tightening them. I wasn't 'going for it' when tightening them, either. I ended use some injector pump drive bolts from the injector pump in my F350 that were left over, that were a tiny bit bigger that the originals.
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Those are nothing special bolts. I use a 10mm 12 point half inch drive with an extension. easy peasy. put penetrating oil on them and they should come right out. The tip about unhooking the top of the shock and leaning it either way is also crucial to the job.
A little different but a good setup once you see how it has to work.;) |
Agreed, 12 point hex, not torx.
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I forgot to say when replacing them you are meant to use loctite.
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Heat.
Cook 'em, cool 'em. Three, maybe four cycles. Copious amounts of penetrating lube. I'm among the AeroKroil devotees.
Jay. |
Left-hand bits.
Oh, yeah, if it's too late, and you've already buggered the 10mm 12-point heads, reverse drill bits are one of the seven wonders of the modern world.
Jay. |
I think we've seen some pictures of the underside of the car in other threads. I'm guessing those bolts are REALLY rusty. May not be an easy job.
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Craftsman 12 point 10mm fit on mine.
Assuming you get them out, a tap to clean/re-cut the threads is probably a good idea to enable proper tightening torque on re-install. The new shocks should come with replacement bolts. If you're unsure of the tap size, the bolt-matching templates at Lowe's/HD are useful. Diameter and coarse/fine thread need to match. |
here's my DIY:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123FrontShocks Id recommend getting the liquid bottle of liquid wrench, or else kroil, and getting a good amount of that penetrating fluid on the bolts where they mount to the LCA. Give them a little while (a few days of continuous application would be nice), some sharp pressure (hit them via a screwdriver, punch or similar) to help break up the bonds and help the fluid to flow... then be patient. If they are bad beyond that, youll need t move towards more severe removal processes... |
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