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  #31  
Old 07-04-2011, 11:11 PM
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IF you pull to try to start it....and need to stop.... you have no boost to the brakes... sure better be ready to pull against the wheel and put all your leg power into the brake pedal ...
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  #32  
Old 07-04-2011, 11:16 PM
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Just last week I had to get an '80 300D started after it sat for years. The P.O. fried the starter trying to start it. After replacing the starter, I cracked all 5 injector lines, and no fuel squirting out. I used an electric fuel pump to force fuel to the lift pump, and finally got fuel to squirt out. After tightening up the lines, I sprayed WD-40 in the intake, and it fired up. The rings will seal better with something like WD-40 in the cyls in an engine that has been siting a while.
Basically do what "babyjames" said above a few posts.
By the way (aquaticedge), 1980 had no turbo, so it would be a TD, NOT a TD-T.

Last edited by ROLLGUY; 07-04-2011 at 11:40 PM.
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  #33  
Old 07-05-2011, 08:47 AM
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At this time I have no way to tow start it unfortunately.

I'll try the WD-40 trick and see if it will fire, if it doesn't it sounds like I may just need to overhaul the engine and do piston rings, head gasket, and get the injectiors and injection pump rebuilt
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  #34  
Old 07-05-2011, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CommieGIR View Post
At this time I have no way to tow start it unfortunately.

I'll try the WD-40 trick and see if it will fire, if it doesn't it sounds like I may just need to overhaul the engine and do piston rings, head gasket, and get the injectiors and injection pump rebuilt
I wouldn't reach that conclusion without at least doing a compression test.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #35  
Old 07-05-2011, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by kerry View Post
I wouldn't reach that conclusion without at least doing a compression test.
X2
You have a long way to go before you get to pulling it to pieces.
Best find out why it wont start first.
If you pull each GP out to test for glow, squirt 1/2 a teaspoon of ATF in each hole before putting them back in. Often that will give it a bit of extra compression & get it to go.
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I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #36  
Old 07-05-2011, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
X2
You have a long way to go before you get to pulling it to pieces.
Best find out why it wont start first.
If you pull each GP out to test for glow, squirt 1/2 a teaspoon of ATF in each hole before putting them back in. Often that will give it a bit of extra compression & get it to go.
Will do when I get home.

Question, there isn't an electric boost pump in the tank is there?
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  #37  
Old 07-05-2011, 11:00 AM
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Could it be possible that the timing is out of whack enough to not let it start properly? Also, it might not hurt to do a valve adjustment. If they are too tight it might be enough to keep them open and you are losing compression that way. Since it sounds like you have good glow and air intake, you are down to fuel delivery and compression to get it to light off.
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1983 Mercedes 300D 335K (diesel commuter)
1965 Corvair Corsa 98K (fun car)
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  #38  
Old 07-05-2011, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by CommieGIR View Post
Will do when I get home.

Question, there isn't an electric boost pump in the tank is there?
No, unless some one put one there to help with WVO.
I really hope you get it to start so you can give it a run before you decide what to do.
Trying to start during the warmest part of the day helps as well.

Good Luck !!!
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I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #39  
Old 07-05-2011, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psaboic View Post
Could it be possible that the timing is out of whack enough to not let it start properly? Also, it might not hurt to do a valve adjustment. If they are too tight it might be enough to keep them open and you are losing compression that way. Since it sounds like you have good glow and air intake, you are down to fuel delivery and compression to get it to light off.
Yeah, and those are both questionable because those are both the unknowns. I don't like the fuel pressure the IP is delivering, I doubt if the IP was running like that on my TDI or 1.6l IDI that it would have the strength to pop the injectors.

At the same time, I don't know how good the compression is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
No, unless some one put one there to help with WVO.
I really hope you get it to start so you can give it a run before you decide what to do.
Trying to start during the warmest part of the day helps as well.

Good Luck !!!
It was 89-92 this whole weekend, pretty damned warm.

Is there any way to tell if the boost pump on the side of the IP is going bad?
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  #40  
Old 07-05-2011, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by psaboic View Post
Could it be possible that the timing is out of whack enough to not let it start properly? Also, it might not hurt to do a valve adjustment. If they are too tight it might be enough to keep them open and you are losing compression that way. Since it sounds like you have good glow and air intake, you are down to fuel delivery and compression to get it to light off.
Given its a N/A, if you crank it over without the air cleaner lid on, you will soon see & hear if the inlet valves are too tight.
It wouldnt hurt to adjust them though, thats how I got my second 300D going after I purchased it. Much to the shock of the seller.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #41  
Old 07-05-2011, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by CommieGIR View Post
Yeah, and those are both questionable because those are both the unknowns. I don't like the fuel pressure the IP is delivering, I doubt if the IP was running like that on my TDI or 1.6l IDI that it would have the strength to pop the injectors.

At the same time, I don't know how good the compression is.



It was 89-92 this whole weekend, pretty damned warm.

Is there any way to tell if the boost pump on the side of the IP is going bad?
It shouldnt stop it from starting. It will stop it from running under load initially.
Best see how you go with the auto trans fluid or similar first.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #42  
Old 07-05-2011, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
It shouldnt stop it from starting. It will stop it from running under load initially.
Best see how you go with the auto trans fluid or similar first.
Will do, much appreciated.

I'll report my findings this afternoon and give the valves a good adjustment too.
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  #43  
Old 07-05-2011, 02:19 PM
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Progress!

Like advised, I picked up a can of WD-40 and last night I had removed the injector lines and bled the pump and left them sitting empty.

TODAY: Attempted to crank after reinstalling and re-bleeding. Fuel pressure is significantly stronger today. Added WD-40 and engine is sputtering and trying to start, still won't go but its coughing hard trying to live.

Have to let the battery charge and I'll re-report this afternoon

Last edited by CommieGIR; 07-05-2011 at 02:36 PM.
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  #44  
Old 07-05-2011, 02:54 PM
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While you are waiting for the battery to recover, adjust the valves to eliminate that as a source of low compression.
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2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO

2007 ML320 CDI .. / 2005 E320 CDI .../ 1998 SLK 230 .../ 1991 Daihatsu Rocky
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  #45  
Old 07-05-2011, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
While you are waiting for the battery to recover, adjust the valves to eliminate that as a source of low compression.
Will do after work, I'm stuck till then
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