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  #61  
Old 07-12-2011, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
Yes that is correct.
Tonight at 9:56PM Mountain time the engine took its first coughs into life...and then sputtered out.

It is running though, just got bleeding to do and the battery is drained.

Otherwise, success is at hand!

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  #62  
Old 07-13-2011, 11:38 PM
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New problem.

I can get engine to crank, it runs, and then dies after 2-3 seconds.

Acting like there is an air bubble, does the same thing on both the normal tank lines and running off of a bottle.

Ideas? This is starting to wear on me
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  #63  
Old 07-13-2011, 11:45 PM
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Fuel filters maybe not completely filled? Air in the IP or injector lines? Have you tried cracking the lines on top of the injectors and cranking for a bit to get any air out? Timing possibly off a bit? Keep going with it, you are almost there, it is definitely showing signs of life
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
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  #64  
Old 07-13-2011, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by psaboic View Post
Fuel filters maybe not completely filled? Air in the IP or injector lines? Have you tried cracking the lines on top of the injectors and cranking for a bit to get any air out? Timing possibly off a bit? Keep going with it, you are almost there, it is definitely showing signs of life
Cracked the lines, they are well bled, multiple times, individually.

There was an air bubble that persisted in the pre-filter at the boost pump, I bled it out.

When its running, timing sounds perfect, the ONLY culprit I can think of is air, because it cuts off so suddenly, and is so eager to catch once its bled.

Got any recommendations for bleeding the IP?

Also, why the HELL is a 1000 CA battery so easy to kill? Maybe I need a new starter?
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  #65  
Old 07-14-2011, 12:02 AM
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have you pushed the accelerator pedal down when it runs? pushing it down slightly to raise the RPM's should help bleed out the air.
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  #66  
Old 07-14-2011, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Aquaticedge View Post
have you pushed the accelerator pedal down when it runs? pushing it down slightly to raise the RPM's should help bleed out the air.
It tries to accelerate then dies
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  #67  
Old 07-14-2011, 12:17 AM
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It doesnt sound like air any more. Is your lift pump good?
I think you said b4 that you had checked the banjo bolt/ pres reg.
In the past, I have run a motor on wd40 in the air inlet. Get some one to spray wd40 in the air inlet while you crank, once it starts keep the wd40 going & try and rev the motor up ro say 2000 rpm & see how it goes for say 30 sec.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
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  #68  
Old 07-14-2011, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
It doesnt sound like air any more. Is your lift pump good?
I think you said b4 that you had checked the banjo bolt/ pres reg.
I suspect it a little.... unfortunately I don't have an alternative, I may go to the junkyard tomorrow and grab a lift pump.

Other option: Could I install an electric diesel fuel pump and see if it helps?
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  #69  
Old 07-14-2011, 12:22 AM
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yes you could. the wvo guys do this quite regularly.
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  #70  
Old 07-14-2011, 12:23 AM
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Is it possible that one of the connections is not tight, or you have some cracked/deteriorated rubber line. It almost sounds like you are sucking in air at some point. Might want to check the seal and O ring on the secondary fuel filter. Hope this helps
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2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)
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  #71  
Old 07-14-2011, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by psaboic View Post
Is it possible that one of the connections is not tight, or you have some cracked/deteriorated rubber line. It almost sounds like you are sucking in air at some point. Might want to check the seal and O ring on the secondary fuel filter. Hope this helps
Will do, I'm picking up a new lift pump and an electric fuel pump to bypass the lift pump if it is weak tommorrow
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  #72  
Old 07-14-2011, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by CommieGIR View Post
I suspect it a little.... unfortunately I don't have an alternative, I may go to the junkyard tomorrow and grab a lift pump.

Other option: Could I install an electric diesel fuel pump and see if it helps?
You could if you have one handy.
Army did a good write up on rebuilding a lift pump. Worth a read !!
Running the motor on wd40 does work, I have done it.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #73  
Old 07-14-2011, 12:27 AM
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Man, He has come so far....I want to see him get her running!
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)
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  #74  
Old 07-14-2011, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by psaboic View Post
Man, He has come so far....I want to see him get her running!
Me too, me too. I'm not giving this Mercedes up, may not be as easy as my VW, but has been worth the challenge.

She WILL live!
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  #75  
Old 07-14-2011, 01:06 AM
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Broken record.

The o-ring on the secondary fuel filter fixing bolt and the hand primer pump are two common sources of air leaks.

Jay.

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