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  #1  
Old 07-15-2011, 02:39 PM
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OM617 Water Pump Replacement

I want to replace it sometime within the next year, but I'm trying to decide if it's easy enough to do myself, or if it's better left to my mechanic. Suggestions?

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  #2  
Old 07-15-2011, 02:44 PM
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Won't know until you try it. If you can change the oil you can do it, just take your time. Hardest part will be removing the old gasket. I'd go for it if I were you.
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  #3  
Old 07-15-2011, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
If you can change the oil you can do it...
Or maybe if you can change a fan belt...

Or an alternator.
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  #4  
Old 07-15-2011, 04:04 PM
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Or a waterpump.

There are potential pitfalls. Do your homework, and you'll probably be fine.

Jay.
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  #5  
Old 07-15-2011, 04:09 PM
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It's pretty straightforward, just be sure to replace the old bolts or they will snap easily with some torque. I did mine out in the street in 35* temperature.
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  #6  
Old 07-15-2011, 04:34 PM
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It's a pretty basic job. Nothing to tricky, unless you shear one of the bolts off.
You'll have to remove the fan to get to the pump. Drain the coolant, but still be ready for more to come out when you break loose the pump.
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  #7  
Old 07-15-2011, 04:41 PM
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Gotcha.

I'll be sure to replace those bolts. Anything else I should consider replacing while I've got the fan off?
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  #8  
Old 07-15-2011, 04:47 PM
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I would recommend checking out the bypass hose, its the 3-4" little hose behind the WP going up to the thermostat housing. Replace if its old or getting cracked around the edges...you don't want to have to do that unless you've got the WP or thermostat housing off (IIRC the EGR gets in the way of that as well?) Unfortunately they only sell the hose in 3 foot lengths, a lot of us have extra hose laying around (I'd offer but I'm not near my MB parts stash). Replace all the belts if they are getting old--you have to take them off anyways.


Edit: also a tip - the fan bolts can be a royal PITA. I was able to use vice grips and a copious amount of PB blaster to get them loose every time I've had it off, but reportely a ground-down box wrench (ground to make it thinner) works well. You only need to get 2 of the bolts out, 3rd and 4th can be loose and you can finagle it out. I'd recommend soaking those overnight in PB/WD-40 or related penetrant. Also after you get the fan and shroud out, slip a piece of cardboard or thin plywood in back of the radiator (engine side) to protect it from the inevitable series of dings and dents while getting the WP out.
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  #9  
Old 07-15-2011, 04:48 PM
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I am getting ready to change mine this weekend. I need to replace my A/C belt SO I need to remove the P/S belt so while both those are off I am going to replace the two on the alt. and while all that is off I am going to replace the water pump. It's 26 years old and a $31 part. I need to do a little cleaning also on the front of my engine from a small lower old pan leak.

Does not look to be a bad job.
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  #10  
Old 07-15-2011, 05:31 PM
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617 pumps are easy. Next time you have the chance, take a look at some of Ford's latest diesel engines and see how you'ld like to do a pump on one of those.
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  #11  
Old 07-15-2011, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbomachines View Post
I would recommend checking out the bypass hose, its the 3-4" little hose behind the WP going up to the thermostat housing. Replace if its old or getting cracked around the edges...you don't want to have to do that unless you've got the WP or thermostat housing off (IIRC the EGR gets in the way of that as well?)
To replace the bypass hose, it is necessary to remove the water pump housing or the thermostat housing. It is not necessary to remove either to replace the water pump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbomachines View Post
Unfortunately they only sell the hose in 3 foot lengths
That would depend entirely on the particular "they" involved. The hose can be obtained already cut to size, and priced accordingly.
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  #12  
Old 08-03-2011, 10:56 PM
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Bypass hose

It the bypass hose a particular size that could be obtained from a local auto supplier? Or is the type of hose (material, thickness, etc.) specific to that application where a standard heater hose would not be durable enough?
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  #13  
Old 08-03-2011, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Styler_Colfax View Post
I am getting ready to change mine this weekend. I need to replace my A/C belt SO I need to remove the P/S belt so while both those are off I am going to replace the two on the alt. and while all that is off I am going to replace the water pump. It's 26 years old and a $31 part. I need to do a little cleaning also on the front of my engine from a small lower old pan leak.

Does not look to be a bad job.
Post some Pictures if you can.
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  #14  
Old 08-03-2011, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaagIII View Post
It the bypass hose a particular size that could be obtained from a local auto supplier? Or is the type of hose (material, thickness, etc.) specific to that application where a standard heater hose would not be durable enough?
I believe the size will be somewhere in the threads below:
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

When I changed my Bypass Hose I found that the Metal of the Hose Nipple was deeply corroded.
I ground out and wire brushed the crevices down to the bare metal and filled it in with JB Weld. After the JB Weld cured I filed and sanded it down.
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  #15  
Old 08-03-2011, 11:59 PM
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I found a size
Cooling/Coolant Hose; Bypass Hose to Thermostat Housing; 42mm ID; 13 Inch Length Trim To Fit
Mercedes offers as a bulk hose, must trim to proper length on engine. 1 per car.
Part number 900271-042012

1-5/8" is about thee .03" of an inch too small and 1-3/4" is .096" too large.

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