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  #31  
Old 07-21-2011, 03:46 PM
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Have you looked at the cam mark thread in my signature ?
Basically means you can not trust your chain elongation estimate...

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  #32  
Old 07-21-2011, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
There might be another possible for you. Fast lane (the pictures are from Fast Lane special Tools for Diesel page 58).

The timing tools in the pictures go into a Plug that you remove from the side of the Governor Housing.

On my 84 I used the one in the left picture. (Note: The timing is done 15 degrees After Top Dead Center.)

You most likely need the one in the right hand picture.

It would be best if you could post a pic of your Fuel Injection Pump so I could see what type of Plug you have on the side of your Governor Housing.
RIV port is only avail on 84 and up MW pumps.


To the OP, there is a bit in the FSM that SOME pumps are offset by 3 teeth due to a problem from the bosch factory.
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  #33  
Old 07-21-2011, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
RIV port is only avail on 84 and up MW pumps.


To the OP, there is a bit in the FSM that SOME pumps are offset by 3 teeth due to a problem from the bosch factory.
But, there is a Timing/Locking pin that fits some of the Older Pumps with the smaller Plug on the side of the Governor Housing.

I have not read instructions on how to use it but I bet it is the same 15 degrees ATDC after the Compression stroke just like the later models. That is the same timing degrees that the RIV,AB light references to.

If he happend to have one of the IPs that needed the 3 tooth offset it would still flow time at the normal range of degrees.
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  #34  
Old 07-21-2011, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post

To the OP, there is a bit in the FSM that SOME pumps are offset by 3 teeth due to a problem from the bosch factory.
The FSM? Is the FSM you are referencing applicable to a '79 240D?
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  #35  
Old 07-21-2011, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
The FSM? Is the FSM you are referencing applicable to a '79 240D?
Im referring to the W123 manual. I dont think the teeth being off applies here just a sugg.
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  #36  
Old 07-21-2011, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
But, there is a Timing/Locking pin that fits some of the Older Pumps with the smaller Plug on the side of the Governor Housing.

I have not read instructions on how to use it but I bet it is the same 15 degrees ATDC after the Compression stroke just like the later models. That is the same timing degrees that the RIV,AB light references to.

If he happend to have one of the IPs that needed the 3 tooth offset it would still flow time at the normal range of degrees.

This is true. But the use of that port is very inaccurate do to chain wear etc.

That does not mean one should not use it. Good call.
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  #37  
Old 07-21-2011, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
This is true. But the use of that port is very inaccurate do to chain wear etc.

That does not mean one should not use it. Good call.
I am OK with the Drip Method.

But, if you are unable to do the Drip Method and you need to get you Car on the Road; and, one of the Timing Pins will work on your IP a person could use that a get the job done.

While using the Timing Pin does not compensate for wear inside of the Fuel Injection Pump it does compensate for Timing Chain/Gear stretch/wear.
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  #38  
Old 07-21-2011, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I am OK with the Drip Method.


While using the Timing Pin does not compensate for wear inside of the Fuel Injection Pump it does compensate for Timing Chain/Gear stretch/wear.

We should not get off-topic on anther's thread, but that is not correct.

Being a few degrees off in a tight situation is not a big deal, however.
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  #39  
Old 07-21-2011, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I am OK with the Drip Method.
I am glad to hear that....since that IS the specified way to set it in the FSM... LOL
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  #40  
Old 07-22-2011, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
I am glad to hear that....since that IS the specified way to set it in the FSM... LOL
But, what can be done to help others learn how to do it?
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  #41  
Old 07-22-2011, 12:43 AM
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I don't think it is a learning problem.... I think it is an ' avoiding it' problem... several really good threads with pics have been done.. have not looked at them lately... it is really straight forward once you have seen it done... I wonder if Whunter has or would do a video on it.. ? Or anyone else that wanted to... ?
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  #42  
Old 07-22-2011, 02:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
I don't think it is a learning problem.... I think it is an ' avoiding it' problem... several really good threads with pics have been done.. have not looked at them lately... it is really straight forward once you have seen it done... I wonder if Whunter has or would do a video on it.. ? Or anyone else that wanted to... ?
It doesn't sound to me like the OP is avoiding it - may be others are but not he!
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  #43  
Old 07-22-2011, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by sethza View Post
awesome!
this is the type of discussion i was hoping for!
...

The guy who rebuilt my engine put something together wrong, so that even though everything is actually working correctly, the marks will never line up properly for the purpose of timing the engine.

...
That seems really unlikely to me. It is pretty simple. It is also pretty simple to check. Get hold of a DTI (dial test indicator) and have a look at the chain elongation check in the wiki

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TimingChainStretch
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  #44  
Old 07-22-2011, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post


To the OP, there is a bit in the FSM that SOME pumps are offset by 3 teeth due to a problem from the bosch factory.
Here is a quote from an old post I have concerning the problem you are refurring to.

"It turns out that a number of IPs made in 1982 were mismarked, so that you actually have to set the driven element so that the wide mark is 3 splines PAST the timing mark. If you've done this, the pump works like any other. This information is clearly set forth in the OM617 engine manual, proving yet again that, even if you know how to do a job, RTFM first."
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  #45  
Old 07-22-2011, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
Here is a quote from an old post I have concerning the problem you are refurring to.

"It turns out that a number of IPs made in 1982 were mismarked, so that you actually have to set the driven element so that the wide mark is 3 splines PAST the timing mark. If you've done this, the pump works like any other. This information is clearly set forth in the OM617 engine manual, proving yet again that, even if you know how to do a job, RTFM first."
Just make sure the manual that you are reading fits the car that you are working on. It's highly unlikely that an OM616 in a '79 240D is going to be fitted with an OM617 IP manufactured in 1982.

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