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  #31  
Old 07-22-2011, 12:53 AM
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And to align the fingers, just you a drill bit or a nail.

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  #32  
Old 07-22-2011, 12:54 AM
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guess who is going to install bushings at 1am?!... I need to find a nail and or my calipers to verify that it is 6mm. Wish I had a drill index... darn
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  #33  
Old 07-22-2011, 12:56 AM
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Pfff. Poke something in the holes until it fits....
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  #34  
Old 07-22-2011, 12:57 AM
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The rod that Andrew (BioD) ships with his SLS valve oring kits is the same thing. Just in case you have one of those handy...
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  #35  
Old 07-22-2011, 12:59 AM
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I do not have one of those things that andrew ships. I'll see what I can find. im going to go install the bushings in a few minutes.


I'm going to install them later, my step dad has to leave for work in an hour and I should probably get some sleep. It shifts fine into and out of the other gears just fine.

I have a nifty set of seal pullers I used for pulling the hydraulic line clips on the cabrio that I can use to remove those clips on the rod and I'll see what I have as far as drill bits and 6mm diameter rods. As well as order the top hat bushing and call Pierre tomorrow.
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  #36  
Old 07-22-2011, 06:35 AM
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What happened? Inquiring minds want to know...

It's good that you have the Haynes manual- this area is one of the few where it really comes in handy. If you are going to the dealer for the top hat, that other flat trapeziodial one is also very likely to be bad. They made them out of some cheesy kind of plastic that gets brittle. I didn't find messing with the mechanism very hard once you understand the principle. When it is working properly it will make a big difference.
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  #37  
Old 07-22-2011, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
I do not have one of those things that andrew ships. I'll see what I can find. im going to go install the bushings in a few minutes.


I'm going to install them later, my step dad has to leave for work in an hour and I should probably get some sleep. It shifts fine into and out of the other gears just fine.

I have a nifty set of seal pullers I used for pulling the hydraulic line clips on the cabrio that I can use to remove those clips on the rod and I'll see what I have as far as drill bits and 6mm diameter rods. As well as order the top hat bushing and call Pierre tomorrow.
Careful with those clips, if they are old and have seen a corrosive environment, they can easily break.

If you order new ones, they are a different design that is somewhat more difficult to remove, but a little more secure.

As said above, super easy to remove. Flat head screwdriver to push up the tab, hand or pair of pliers to pull the clip off the slotted groove on the linkage.

Bushings on the trans side will push in and pop in place with little effort, no heat or prep work is needed, bushings on the shifter side will do the same.

To replace all six bushings and all six clips only takes a few minutes

Once that is done, and the most obvious issue that needs to be fixed is resolved, then you can go further into what could be ailing the tranny, but its better to eliminate this as a contributing factor. The tranny has 3 side linkages, each with its own bushing, the issue with first could very well be the fact that the bushing on 1-2 shift arm is more worn that the others. However, since its an old car with an old manual tranny, you might as well prepare yourself for potentially larger issues, because its definitely a possibility.

On the plus side, these 4-speed boxes are so light that working on them is a breeze. I think a 240 4-speed weighs something like 50-60 lbs, very easy to remove to get at the clutch, or replace and rebuild
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  #38  
Old 07-22-2011, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
I think a 240 4-speed weighs something like 50-60 lbs
There were two types, one that had a separate bellhousing and cast iron box (made by MB, I think) and an all alloy one piece unit made by Getrag. Joe's should be the cast iron one, more like 60-70 lbs
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  #39  
Old 07-22-2011, 09:08 AM
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I really hope it's not a big issue. I do not want to have to get another transmission or rebuild this one.


on the shifter arms on the transmission, which way should the big bushing end be

Last edited by TheDon; 07-22-2011 at 09:30 AM.
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  #40  
Old 07-22-2011, 09:31 AM
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...nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition!

Don't stress over it. I am thinking a complete rebuild of the linkage/lever may solve it.
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  #41  
Old 07-22-2011, 09:34 AM
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talking to fields mercedes. they like me when I call since I have epc open

parts needed for a complete shifter mechanism bushing refresh and shifter rods.
Part numbers and prices(may vary from dealership to dealership) listed below

top hat (115 267 07 50).....$10
trapezoid (115 267 06 76) ......$11
super small bushing ( 115 267 22 50) ......$29
clips ( 000 994 29 60) $6 each .... $1.89 (online)
bushings for the shifter rod end ( 115 992 01 10) .....$0.71(online)
bushings for transmission arms ( 000 992 05 10) .....$0.58 (online)

Last edited by TheDon; 07-22-2011 at 10:21 AM.
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  #42  
Old 07-22-2011, 09:42 AM
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Ripoff ...what did you expect ....it's a Mer-say-deeeeez. And they LIKE you?
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  #43  
Old 07-22-2011, 09:49 AM
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Well how often does a customer call with actual part numbers lol... I'll call my trusted parts guy that is in Cali that doesn't jack the prices of OEM parts through the roof.

I didn't even bother calling Mercedes Benz at Millenia. Now those guys are real ass hats
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  #44  
Old 07-22-2011, 11:02 AM
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Linkage bushings first.
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  #45  
Old 07-22-2011, 11:13 AM
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Will do!, I still need to order that top hat and such. I would rather use the correct bushing than what I have.

I hope I do not break any of those stupid clips.

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