oil filter canister to block gasket change out
 

So both my wagons leak oil at the oil filter housing to block gasket location. I've pulled the housing off and cleaned both surface areas and think I am ready to re-install with a new gasket. Do I need to put some form a gasket on either side of the gasket? If so this one or this one or this one? If no form a gasket then nothing (or something else?) goes on the gasket- just install clean and tighten the five 6mm allen bolts to around 20fp?

Either of The first Two .... as thin a layer on both sides of the gasket as you can do... with a brush or fingers... and the surfaces they are going to... starting so clean that a white rag with lacquer thinner on it gets no smudge.... would be what I would go with...

Everyone else agree?

I do not agree.

The key to no leaks in this area is to simply purchase the OE gasket. It's entirely different than any aftermarket product and significantly thicker.

It can be installed without any additional sealants.

The proof is in the application on the SD...........four years and not a drop of oil from this area.

If you get a gasket that says ' use no sealants' then use no sealants...
I assume this is what Brian is saying ... that the OEM is treated to not need any..
but any normal fiber or paper gaskets... I treat and have for 40 years.. If you ever have to take a bunch of stuff off and start over.... it concentrates your focus on getting a good seal the first time...
I had to re do a water pump gasket on a 74 Dodge pickup truck ..this thing had the old York compressor up front and high...and some of the braces went onto the water pump bolts.... I vowed never to do that again... I have not had any gasket leak since... but you do have to follow manufacturers directions if they are special....

Make 100% certain ALL remaining gasket material is OFF the block as well as the filter housing as they sometimes really don't want to let go of the block. Don't rely just on sight or feel....wipe it down with a quick drying solvent to make sure, use a strong light. If anything remains you WILL have a leak. Trust me. Found that out the hard way. Its bad enough to do once without doing it twice. I thought it was all off the first time too.

Well the housing is back on- I cleaned everything three times. The gasket came off without issue and since I cleaned the engine bay quite well in advance the whole job was not bad. I won't be able to test until tuesday. After that I do my other wagon.

It's important to note that you'll need to make or borrow a special tool for this job. There are 5 bolts- four on the outside and one longer one nearer the middle. The middle one is too close to the steering box and you either need to cut down the short end of a standard 6 mm hex wrench, or cut off part of the long end, stick it in the bolt and use a 6mm wrench to turn the cut off portion (and thus the bolt). Only the one on the top can accessed by a socket allen via extention- all others are best accessed from under and with a standard allen wrench or the cut off/shorter version.

You have a little bit more room on a W116 doing that but its still a major pain. One I won't soon forget. My gasket appeared to have molecularly bonded to the block...and fought me to the last little bit.

Nice that it is a ' very few times in a lifetime' job...per car I mean... can't believe you have two to do in a row....

See post #19 and #20 for pics of the OEM gasket.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/294339-fight-back%3B-post-list-where-parts-you-bought-were-made-2.html
I put the OEM one on mine and it has special features;and believe it is well worth the extra money.

I also use a Copper Copper Coat Gasket Sealant one side of the Gasket and glued it to the Oil Filter Housing.

So you used the OE but went ahead and put some sealant on it despite what BC said it needs none?


Uh oh. I used the aftermarket gasket and no nothing but it. Should I start a thread with chances of it leaking now?

Although it's a bit late now..............a 1/4" ratcheting box wrench works perfectly on that cutoff portion............otherwise, you install and remove the wrench about 20 times...........

And, they are socket head cap screws.............not bolts.

Yes; I have my own opinions and experiences that I draw from.

I also use Silicone Sealant inside of the Valve Cover Gasket and a thin Coating on the bottom of the Valve Cover Gasket.
If someone wants to follow BC's advice or use their own judgement I am OK with that. It is their Engine/Car.

I have had Gaskets leak for other reasons but have never had a Gasket leak because I used a Gasket Sealer on it.

Also having the Gasket Stuck to one side of the work makes the Job of insalling parts easier; the Gasket is not going to fall off or get out of position like it can if it is loose.

Your Aftermarket Gasket will be OK.
The original Gasket that I removed was not very thick and just made of what appears to be just regular Gasket Material. And, it lasted from 1984 until last year.
It is just that it is clear that they paid a lot of extra attention when the Made the newest OEM Gasket. I think I paid $4 more for the OEM Gasket than an aftermarket one would have cost.

X2 for Diesel911's post...
It is often very useful on vertical gasket placement to glue to one side with a tacky thin sealant to the moveable part... and let it cure... then you don't need three hands up in a tight spot to align and put in the first bolt...

Did you try tightening those socket head cap screws first to see if it will stop the leak? Is the boat in NY yet?