urgent- buying another benz tomorrow, info needed - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

weird beard · #1 07-23-2011, 07:51 PM

What should I be looking for to make sure I get the car I really can drive for years to come? I am a licensed mechanic, the basic check over and mechanical stuff I have covered. It is the in depth wealth of mercedes specific knowledge I am seeking on this one. (The #14 head thing etc)

1982 300D with 192000km, never winter driven. When You live in the rust belt this is a big deal.

from the ad -

Quote:

never winter driven...but Great commuter, 40+ MPG, in 4500lbs of ultimate safety. Runs straight, motor is perfect, as is trans. Has highway gears for quiet economical transportation. excllent tires.
Original paint, interior is very good, 2 small cracks in dash have just developed this summer under tarp. . A/C needs compressor, rear window gears , but window motors work. aftermarket radio ...attenna snapped off..
underbody clean no rust, no dents or dings. straight body

The rear end has been swapped with one with taller gears from a gasser, speedo head swapped at the same time. Still has all the original parts including the original speedo head. Two owners, well maintained, all documented.

leathermang · #2 07-23-2011, 07:58 PM

Did you do a compression check ?

kerry · #3 07-23-2011, 08:05 PM

Even with imperial gallons, 40mpg isn't possible so it sends a red flag to me.

MTUpower · #4 07-23-2011, 08:35 PM

The #14 head is the next engine so that's not an issue with the 617-952- which is the engine in the 1982 300D. If it drives nicely with smooth transmission shifts when both warm and cold, starts up quickly after glowing and restarts with no glow when warm, all the stuff works like lights, brakes, wipers etc then give us pictures and we'll give you a good ball park figure to pay.

Skippy · #5 07-23-2011, 08:44 PM

Mileage (kilometerage?) works out to 120,000 mi. This is awfully low for a 1982 model. If it's extensively documented, you probably have yourself a good find. Otherwise assume the thing really has more like a quarter million miles (400,000 km) on it. This isn't really that bad, but it's a time when you need to start worrying about timing chains, front end rebuilds, and the auto trans wearing out.

The rear end swap sounds nice. I have the stock 3.07 in my '83 and a slightly taller rear end (or overdrive) would really be nice on the highway. If the quoted mpg is in imperial gallons, I could believe it with the rear end swap and conservative driving. 40 mpg imperial is only 33.3 mpg U.S. I get 29-30 with my manual trans and 3.07 rear end, and I don't drive that conservatively.

As for the 4500 lbs bit, yet another person has confused the gross vehicle weight rating with the curb weight. This happens all the time.

Jeremy5848 · #6 07-23-2011, 08:46 PM

Fortunately there are no "#14 head"-type issues with the OM617 engine but it's still possible to damage them if you work at it. Make sure there's no evidence of oil in the coolant or vice-versa. The 4500 pounds is erroneous, more like 3500 at most. If possible have a professional look at the car. A hundred bucks spent now will avoid a lot of pain in the future. Less than 200,000 km is very good (if true). Look at the service records, see if they confirm the odometer reading. More records = good. Quoted fuel economy is blatantly wrong, sounds like the seller is looking for a gullible buyer. Who knows what else is being covered up? Suspicious, especially if there are no service records offered for your inspection.

vstech · #7 07-23-2011, 09:00 PM

mileage is impossible to verify. what's the mileage on the original odo? what's the mileage on the replacement odo? what OTHER odo's have been installed?
anyway, the 123D has many spots to inspect! hinge pockets, PULL the plastic fender liners in the front wheel wells... check the METAL pinch points below the door sills under the car. any signs of spreading and you've got rust inside the floorpanels UNDER the hingepockets also, the hinge pockets dump into a fenderwell where additional holes are... lots of places for rust to begin... also you have to PULL the battery tray and look for rust.

zeke · #8 07-23-2011, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

Even with imperial gallons, 40mpg isn't possible so it sends a red flag to me.

Had the same thought....Either the seller is being dishonest, or has not really driven this car because there is no way if he/she has actually driven it that he/she would make such an outrageous claim.

Also, the odometers are so unreliable and easily altered in w123, you have to go by things like steering wheel wear, upholstery or engine condition/compression to really get a sense of the mileage. As said above, unless the mileage is documented since say 1985, don't believe the number in the cluster!

tbomachines · #9 07-23-2011, 09:03 PM

The car is not 4500 lbs...I don't get why people just pick numbers out of their bottoms and put them in ads...why not just leave that out??

tangofox007 · #10 07-23-2011, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremy5848

The 4500 pounds is erroneous, more like 3500 at most.

If the seller is charging by the pound, take the car to a scale before writing a check.

1980sd · #11 07-23-2011, 09:08 PM

Pray, wear some Hoyts cologne, carry a chicken foot...

Won't hurt...

tangofox007 · #12 07-23-2011, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbomachines

I don't get why people just pick numbers out of their bottoms and put them in ads...why not just leave that out??

I could not agree with you more. It was only a few weeks ago that someone on this very forum was claiming 35 mpg in an SDL!!!

leathermang · #13 07-23-2011, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbomachines

The car is not 4500 lbs...I don't get why people just pick numbers out of their bottoms and put them in ads...why not just leave that out??

Shoot, people do it within threads here on the forum.... so does not surprise me that general public does it...

layback40 · #14 07-23-2011, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by weird beard

What should I be looking for to make sure I get the car I really can drive for years to come? I am a licensed mechanic, the basic check over and mechanical stuff I have covered. It is the in depth wealth of mercedes specific knowledge I am seeking on this one. (The #14 head thing etc)

1982 300D with 192000km, never winter driven. When You live in the rust belt this is a big deal.

from the ad -

The rear end has been swapped with one with taller gears from a gasser, speedo head swapped at the same time. Still has all the original parts including the original speedo head. Two owners, well maintained, all documented.

Now Weird,
Lets get your thoughts straight first off !! You are going to look at a car & if its as good as the owner says, you will consider buying.

It is a lot different to your 250 !!

The 617 is more like a rattly conventional diesel.
It will lack the zippyness of the 124 but will be much smoother.
The trans will be similar to yours. watch for flairing & strange changing.
I bet if you look hard enough you will find some rust.
The front tires will give you a hint to the front end. They tend to ware on the inside edge when things are not right. The front end is completely different to the 124.
The steering wheel & brake peddle are a better indicator of the mileage than the oddo.

Good luck with your considerations.
Remember you can always go back and increase your offer. Going down is harder.

leathermang · #15 07-23-2011, 10:53 PM

Having someone like " Lemon Busters " for $130 perform 75 empirical tests (?).... with no emotion involved... unlike car buyers.... can be worth thousands of dollars....... if you buy it... then use the list as the ' things to be corrected ' list....