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#1
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Post purchase inspection/maintenance 1982 300SD
Hi all...I hate my first post to be asking for advice but I ran across a deal I couldn't pass up. I just bought an 82 300SD with 122,000 on the clock. I have owned diesels before, a Rabbit diesel (great car) and a Peugeot (don't get me started), but this is my first Mercedes.
I'll pick it up in a couple of hours, but at first blush, it looks pretty good. No rust whatsoever but the paint is faded and peeling a bit. New paint will have to come sooner or later. I drove it in 90 Degree heat for about half an hour and the temp needle didn't budge over halfway. No leaks, no strange noises, plenty of power and overall pretty good condition. Items needing attention will be: A/C blows warm air. Hopefully will just need a charge but I realize it could be an expensive fix. Driver's side door panel armrest is broken and the seat switch buttons are gone. Seat still moves in all directions but no buttons. Driver's window doesn't roll up or down. Other windows are ok. Cruise doesn't work. My question is: with the above in mind, and in addition to changing fluids and filters...what should I be on the lookout for? The suspension seems tight but I'll go over that while I have it up in the air. What quirks should I be aware of? Thanks in advance for the kind advice. I am looking it as kind of a rolling restoration and will just do little projects while I enjoy it. By the way, I paid $1,500 for the car. |
#2
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Just drove the car about 25 miles home. It is even better than I expected. No rust, good power and steers straight, etc. I'll put it on the lift and take a look underneath tomorrow. I plan to change the fluids and filters and give it a once over. At 122,000, what normally wears out that I should look out for? I'll look at the tie rods and suspension, hoses and brakes...anything else? Thanks in advance. I'll post pics tomorrow.
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#3
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Well, first off change the oil, all filters. Also a valve adjustment, and check the condition of the engine mounts, tranny mount, and all rubber hoses (fuel, brake, engine cooling)
Seems like you got a really good deal, but also remember, nothing is more expensive than a cheap Mercedes. That said, once to get it all up to snuff, it will be a very nice reliable car.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#4
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Not only the hoses/filters...but all the fluids.....
Don't rely on the odometer as to wear.... check your suspension , front end and Brakes first thing.... no matter what they feel like.... in this many years it is possible for many Yahhoos to have had their wrenches on your car... And read the AC sticky at the top of the page ...so you will know what to post regarding your AC.
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#5
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First like to say congratulations. I bought my '82 300sd exactly one week ago. I love it!
At a bare minimum, change the oil and filters. A complete inspection, service everything and a tuneup is recommended. I'm on a bit of a budget right now so have to draw this process out longer than I would like. Having someone who knows these cars take a look at it would be best. Having not driven the car since new, you won't know how it should run, ride, power output etc. Also expect the unexpected. In one week, I blew out a front guide rod mount due to all the potholes around here. A combination of age and wear probably meant they were fragile to begin with. $1500! good deal if it is in good shape. Mine cost 2X that! I'm planning a rolling restoration as well. Mine is in between the expensive ones that are almost perfect and the ones that have seen better days. With a little work it can be restored. Neglect the issues it has and it will be in sad condition in short time. Rust is cancer. Catch it early and most of the time the prognosis is good. Ignore it and well, you know how it will end.
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1982 300sd, new project car to restore It doesn't matter if you know what you're doing, as long as you look like you know what you're doing. |
#6
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When an expert or experienced driver isn't available, ask yourself, would someone have paid $50K for a car that behaves like this 25-30 years ago? Then decide if it's worth the cost to make like new.
Sixto 87 300D |
#7
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After a thorough detailing today, this car is still amazes me. The PO really cared, evidently. The first aid kit has never been touched and I have 2 spares on the same type of rims. All fluids up and fresh (I'm changing them anyway) and not one flake of rust anywhere except some surface rust under the battery, as they all do. No rust in the trunk or anywhere else.
The thing runs very good. In Utah, they make you do your emissions inspection at a central place located in every county. PITA because I can't schedule an appointment until this Saturday. Government "assistance" at its best. I can do the safety inspection elsewhere, though. By the way, what is the plastic thing in the trunk with a large yellow wire going to it? It looks like some sort of fuel pump but it can't be that. Nearby is a red wire with a pigtail that looks like it plugs in to it. It is just laying loose near the spare tire. I have a lot to learn. |
#8
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Y'know, I'll bet all of 0.01% of those first aid kits is ever touched. I don't understand people's fascination with 30 year old first aid kits, touched or untouched
Sounds like you found the central locking pump. It should be sheathed in thick foam. I don't know why it's unplugged. Maybe the pump is bad and gets stuck in a loop of locking and unlocking the doors. Sixto 87 300D |
#9
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Yes, that is the door lock air or vacuum, pump. It has an electrical connection and the yellow line is the vac line.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#10
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Sorry for a dumb question but...what do I do with it? Is it unplugged so as not to activate the system because of some fault, I wonder? Thanks!
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#11
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Plug it in and see what happens. Worst case is you blow a fuse.
Sixto 87 300D |
#12
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If you have a MityVac, and you should with a car like that, pull a vacuum on the yellow line and check that the doors lock. Send pressure out the other port of the MityVac and check that the doors unlock. Can't check the trunk with the lid open and the driver door should lock when that door is open.
Sixto 87 300D |
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