What do I do in the rubber seal track on the doors??? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JHZR2 · #1 07-31-2011, 05:26 PM

Hi,

Trying to get a lot of stuff done on my 82 300CD. One of the tasks is to replace the rubber seals...

It really is a mess. The metal liner that holds the front of the seal in place has "clips" that are so tight that they break my plastic wedge and the metal deforms because so much force is required to back these things out...

Anyway, pulled the seal out and noticed the lower track had some goop in it:

It seems to me that it is just some kind of goop. It has no real tack to it, but it isnt dried, it is very thick and can get moved around with a tool in the area.

FSM 72-220 indicates that areas by the clips need MB universal adhesive (what is a good alternative to this???), and that "union cement" should be used at the bottom corner of the front door.

No info related to this stuff. Is it some kind of rubber friendly anti-corrosion coating? Some kind of lube to help get the seal in? Something else?

Dont want to install it wrong...

Thanks!

MTUpower · #2 07-31-2011, 08:48 PM

The best FSM72 substitute is rubber cement ( I think the MB stuff IS rubber cement) - I just did the job on the 82 wagon's driver's door. The white plastic clips are available from worldpac parts dealers and are a must as the old clips get messed up in removal and so does the thin metal part you have pics of. I made sure the door and seal track were free of rust, very clean and repainted if needed prior to the new seal install. I do not know what the yellow stuff is- my cars do not have it.

JHZR2 · #3 08-07-2011, 01:08 AM

Bump, Im going to work on this some tomorrow. Got the official (in an MB can) adhesive... So Ill be using that. Any suggestions/recommendations regarding dealing with the track pictured above? If Im going to try to clean all that junk out, what is the best way to do so? It is really tough to get any tools in there...

Thanks!

whunter · #4 08-07-2011, 01:16 AM

The yellow is 3M™ trim adhesive.

All auto parts stores stock it.

FYI: It now comes in yellow or black color.

trim adhesive remover
http://www.google.com/search?q=3m+trim+adhesive&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=#sclient=psy&hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&source=hp&q=trim+adhesive+remover&aq=0&aqi=g1g-m1&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=6ddf1ab0fb59f6d0&biw=1280&bih=830

Stretch · #5 08-07-2011, 05:13 AM

I'm sorry to say - as I'm paint them anyway - I used ye olde angle grindere and wire brushe attachment... followed by brake cleaner marine clean and then POR15...

JHZR2 · #6 08-07-2011, 10:26 PM

I have MB Universal adhesive, in a can with a brush...

The question now is... The FSM does not indicate to use adhesive IN the channels. 72-220 says that the adhesive is to be used in the area of the clips. Union cement is used only at the location of the top of the channel on the front door (last picture in 72-220).

Yet I have all that stuff in the ENTIRE channel. What does this mean? Do I do as they say, or do as they do?

There is ZERO way to get the old stuff out short of using tons of solvent and mechanical action. Since the paint is perfect, Ive run a few wipes over the old stuff with some 3M adhesive remover (didnt get much off at all but softened). I actually found that a soft touch with a small flat screwdriver is the best. However it is too dangerous. Right now Im inclined to replace the removed adhesive in the one spot where I cleaned well due to flaky paint, and the rest of the track install it dry with no new adhesive. Thoughts???

Stretch · #7 08-08-2011, 03:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

I have MB Universal adhesive, in a can with a brush...

The question now is... The FSM does not indicate to use adhesive IN the channels. 72-220 says that the adhesive is to be used in the area of the clips. Union cement is used only at the location of the top of the channel on the front door (last picture in 72-220).

Yet I have all that stuff in the ENTIRE channel. What does this mean? Do I do as they say, or do as they do?

There is ZERO way to get the old stuff out short of using tons of solvent and mechanical action. Since the paint is perfect, Ive run a few wipes over the old stuff with some 3M adhesive remover (didnt get much off at all but softened). I actually found that a soft touch with a small flat screwdriver is the best. However it is too dangerous. Right now Im inclined to replace the removed adhesive in the one spot where I cleaned well due to flaky paint, and the rest of the track install it dry with no new adhesive. Thoughts???

This is risky - perhaps too risky - but I bet thinner will kill the glue... could also kill the paint too if you're not quick enough.

I have been using a sort of degreaser / cleaner called U-pol system 20. It is made in the UK so I'm not sure if it is available where you are.

Cleaning paint work whilst painting!

This stuff stinks - worse than thinner - so use a mask.

Compared with some other stuff I've tried it is great for not killing paintwork - even recently sprayed primer and base coat.

Eastwoods sell some slightly more aggressive stuff called pre-paint. This won't hurt old paint work too much but it does kill the more freshly painted. Perhaps it will help with glue removal?

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pre-painting-prep.html

JHZR2 · #8 08-08-2011, 08:00 AM

I have eastwood pre painting prep and used it. I did feel some of the paint seemingly feel softer...

Even the eastwood stuff didnt get it all out, and all the same, the geometry of that track will NOT let you get all the old stuff out. It just can not due to the inaccessibility of the right angles and vertical surfaces...