1987 300d somethings not right..? - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Iheartboost · #76 08-27-2011, 10:30 AM

Welp changed the trans fluid. It looked really really good.....

I drained both the torque converter and pan,changed the filter and gasket. And added some trans fix. Seems to help but I can tell the trans is going to need a rebuild.

Next on the agenda is probably diesel purge(even though I kinda did seafoam) hopefully that will cleab the IP out good, then pull the injectors and give them agood cleaning then check timing / replace timing chain and tensioner.

jonbobshinigin · #77 08-28-2011, 12:23 AM

Have you bypassed the overboost protection valve? There is one above drivers front tire near the our saucer and on along the drivers side firewall/fuse box area. I know you said you did, I'm just letting you know there are two.

You also could have swapped the fule lines up front to determine if screen was plugged. The whole egr system can be bypassed by golf tees blocking everything on the passengers side. You should go around and check and replace vacuum fittings and make sure you don't have a vacuum leak before tinking with timing and other adjustments.

Iheartboost · #78 08-28-2011, 09:23 AM

I blocked off the egr and arv with bb's in the lines. I know both are by passed because my alda is broken and removed

jonbobshinigin · #79 08-28-2011, 09:46 AM

Dont assume the trans needs rebuilt yet...you have more issues than that. I would start with checking vacuum fittings all over. There is one that is on the drivers side of the trans which connects a tube to the Modulator; often overlooked. One vacuum leak and you trans wont shift correctly and you will not have full power. Just get several feet of the vacuum hose and get some injector return line as well because you will need it when you remove injectors. The engine appears to have life left and do not discount your trans just yet. We will help you, this is a great group of people!

Injectors and nozzles could very well be original. I am looking at having Sean Watts rebuild mine with new nozzles but he has not responded to my PM.

Iheartboost · #80 08-28-2011, 10:30 AM

Yea the engine sounds pretty healthy. I guess ill just redo all my vac lines. Hopefully thatll do something.

jonbobshinigin · #81 08-28-2011, 10:50 AM

Not so much the lines as the fittings, just make sure the plastic line are not cracked or clogged by blowing through them.

Iheartboost · #82 08-28-2011, 11:44 AM

Thats what I meant like the little rubber connectors.

Iheartboost · #83 09-13-2011, 05:08 PM

So i was testing my trans today. if i just mash it from a stop its slow. and if i put it in 2 its slow. but the thing is if it really is starting in 1 it would shift to 2 right?

in both situations it starts in the same gear so in D it has one shift (presumably to two). and when its in 2 it wont shift up. (it wont change gear.) so if it was starting in 1 then i should get at least one shift up to 2.

this makes me strongly think its starting in 2.

sixto · #84 09-13-2011, 07:27 PM

Lowest gear you can engage with the shift lever in 2, get the engine to 4000 rpm, what does the speedometer indicate?

Sixto
87 300D

Iheartboost · #85 11-28-2011, 02:02 PM

so soon i will be able to pull the valve cover off and check timing and pull the injectors as well.

today i heard something that could give me another lead to whats wrong. i heard a dripping sort of sound coming from the car after i drove it.

im thinking stuck injector. could explain my white smoke on start up. or it could be coolant getting pushed back through a crack in the head :/

when i pull the injectors how can i tell if they are stuck?

inkblotz · #86 11-30-2011, 08:38 AM

Regarding the rear wheel bearings for those on a shoestring budget. I did one of mine this past weekend and found these Youtube videos on the BMW 325 I rear bearing R/R to work perfectly for replacing the 124 rear bearings as well. And you don't need to dismantle the entire axle.
Rear Wheel Bearing Removal With No Special Tools BMW 325i - YouTube
Rear Wheel Bearing Installation With No Special Tools BMW 325i - YouTube

One suggestion is to buy 2 of the 3/4 plumbing pieces (grind one down to the actual diameter of the bearing making install easy. Also have your metal cutting dremel handy in case the old bearing housing is stubborn to come out. (ask me how I know this

)
Mark

Iheartboost · #87 11-30-2011, 03:55 PM

thanks alot man! yea ill have to get around to that. its gonna be a pita when i do lol.

Iheartboost · #88 12-19-2011, 03:58 PM

well good news and bad news!!

bad news first-

blew up my trans trying to do a burn out lol. has no forward only reverse now lol. but w/e that means ill be putting an 722.6 in it with controler

now the good!

was able to check timing! and my chain stretch was a WOPPING!!........~1 deg lol.

so i still have no idea why its not running right

video

(EDIT! my battery is very weak... so theres not much juice to start/heat glow plugs)

jonbobshinigin · #89 12-19-2011, 11:11 PM

1. 722.6 will be a lot more work than you may think as it is electronically controlled.
2. Mine starts rough because I have at least one worn/bad glow plug which causes it to start without those cylinders for a few seconds.
3. You should see if changing the ELR settings to get it to idle properly. You are idling at 500 rpms according to the Tach. You should be at 700ish. Stock setting is 4 I believe, I run mine at 6 I think. Either way let's assure that it is working!

vstech · #90 12-19-2011, 11:19 PM

two questions...
why is your exhaust exiting the passenger's side of the car?

and
why is the exhaust note so loud?

same answer? straight piped to the passenger's side?
open pipe under the car?

anyway, you only gave the car 12 seconds of glow. I'd give it at least 30 seconds, and try it again. depending on how cold it is there. (the ice on the window says it's at LEAST below 30...) perhaps let the glows sit until the relay clicks off, then recycle the key for another 30 or so seconds...