Hey...that 240D looks pretty nice, cosmetically...the seats, door panels, dash are all better than mine. Curious that the antenna is on the front right, as I thought only the Euro models came that way...though it may have been the manual vs. power antenna option. BTW, does the heater blower motor work?

Too bad you guys hadn't found this yet when I was visiting you - I would have liked to see it. Anyway, I'm wondering if the oil pump failed or is failing and thus the engine wasn't getting lubrication and damaged the rod bearings? That's definitely not injector knock like I first thought it might be.

If you need to replace the engine, you can use a W115 220D, 240D or 300D engine but the W123 versions won't fit without relocating the oil filter and a few other modifications.
BTW -welcome to the forum, I figured you'd come here eventually!

-Alain

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1976 240D "Katja"

Nice, just needs a nice buffing.

Well bring yours here and we'll do an engine swap

The blower motor seems to work, the heater was on when we were drove it here. The ac appears to have coolant but disconnected. I thought that too. I wanted to look up the vin to see what it says but haven't got the chance. It is the factory antenna as it has the h on it.

I was also thinking that the oil pump went bad and thats what ruined the engine. But now I am think bad maintenance.

Thanks, I was here for something before as I was already a member and had a few posts....not sure when I was.

Okay so heres an update. We pulled the valve cover. Inside looks very nice but you can clearly see that the oil is very bad. It is very stick and there is deposits on everything. I am thinking lack of oil changes or wrong oil. My 300D is soooo much cleaner when I remove the VC. With this one I could barely wipe the oil off the tools.

All the valves were fine but for the #4 exhaust which was extremely tight, couldn't even get a feeler gauge in it...or brake the nut lose. I got that adjusted.

Heres another problem, I can't remove the injectors. I wanted to check heat shields and look at the injectors. I put all my weigh into the wrench and could brake one free. Why is this? and how do I remove them?

Heres a pic of this inside.

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You didn`t happen to drive by the Vancouver PNP today and see me there did you. ?????

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

The injectors can be pretty tight, normally will need a breaker bar to get them loose. I think you should leave them alone for now. Fixing/finding the knock is your big problem.

A few more suggestions.

Loosen the injector lines then snug back up, but not too tight. start engine run up to knocking speed, loosen one injector at a time (have safety glasses on) see if knock stops, if so then you have located the bad cylinder. No 1 rod bearing seems to be the first one to go. If you are lucky and it is no 1,then this is the only one you can get to with the engine in the car. The sheet metal oil pan gets you to no1 rod, no1 and 2 main and the oil pump. Everything else needs the engine out to get the aluminum pan off.

I am still not to fond of running it, so you may just want to pull the pan and pop a bearing cap even though you can only get to one just to see what it looks like. Nice and all grey, and most likely good, copper showing a lot is bad. Copper showing then grey in the middle could be all the way through the overlay, then the copper, and now showing the backing metal. If it has gone this far the crank will be scoured. rebuild time.

For just a basic check on bearing get "plasti gage" You remove the bearing cap put a piece of this in , retighten the bearing cap, do not turn the engine. then remove cap and look at how wide the plasti gage has spread. Compare to the marks on the plasti gage wrapper to see what the clearance is. This is not super accurate, but will give you enough to say it's bad or not.

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1977 240D turbo

With zero oil pressure a knock, and novice mechanics, it would be much more
realistic to search for a replacement engine. Amateurs ( and thats me) can do that kind of remove/replace project, and it is very satisfying, and saves a car.
Here in New England, engines are easier to find than cars. Where you are, its the reverse really.

Either way, a teardown will sit in the yard until the tow truck comes. But Im jealous of the rust free body.

yes for amateurs it would be easyer to just replace the engine. However if he wants to learn, more power to him for at least looking into it. We all start somewhere. For me it was an old 76 datsun pickup rusted out and well worn when I got it. Then the 47 Dodge. This was some time ago. Do still have a 47 Dodge just not the same one. Although I did have the first one for 20 years.

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1977 240D turbo

Okay, So we found 2 engines today. One is from a 240D 75 and a 220D 65. We found out we can get them for 280$ a piece and a 1 year warranty. Problem is, we can't test them out.

Here are 2 photos. This one is from a 240D, has 130,000 miles. It looks good, indicates it was taken care of at some point with new glow plugs and return lines. Problem is the injector pump side, hood and fire wall are covered in oil. The transmission is already gone so pulling is simply. The second one is clean from a rusted out bucket, no signs of maintenance or oil leaks. Which one should we start with first? Remember we can exchange them. Also any tips on removal? We are going to to try a few more mech tricks on the old before we go and do a pull.

pictures aren't the best

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Well we have the first engine in the back of the pickup. We are going to get some fuel line, either and a batter....start her up and see what she does. The engine had nice bright green coolant, oil was not shiny and no melt shavings were found in the pan. We also attempted to move the rods on No 1 cylinder up and down to listen for a knock...but there was no play. The car had a biofuel sticker in the rear window. We are assuming the oil is from wither the oil cooler lines or the injection pump. I read that you to change that oil...you need to blow or suck it out...blowing it out causes a real mess...ie what we see under the hood...Of course it was easy to remove the engine from the pick n pull car but with ours we need to be a lot more careful. The car a pnp also had a passenger side mirror.

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how many miles on the second one? don't like the missing oil cap, has it been exposed to rain, dirt, etc? Any idea of miles?

Oil all over on the first one is likely to be from the oil filter. Could be the gasket on the oil filter,easy to get a little off when putting the lid back on. Then you start it and oil goes everywhere. With the low miles of 130,000 it would be the one I would try first.

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1977 240D turbo

Anyone want to check out our crazy hilly billy engine testing video?

Turns out the oily engine out of the pnp 240d....is nice and strong sounding...now we just have to get it into the car...didn't want to let it run to long with out the cooling system...but if there was a rod knock it would be able to be heard...there was also no shavings in the oil pan and the coolant nice and bright green. We just need to degrease incase there is a leak somewhere we can catch it after we install it. We plan to replace all filters, motor mounts, fuel hoses and oil pan gasket.

Junk Yard OM616 - YouTube

Heres a few snap shots of the engine.

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Nice! That engine sounds MUCH better...and the video was hilarious

I see the glow plugs have been upgraded to the newer parallel-wired type. Fuel lines also look newish, though it's hard to tell from a photo.

If the primer pump leaked even a tiny bit, replace it now, as it will be much easier with the engine out of the car. There is an upgraded type that doesn't screw down, just has a black plastic handle.

There's no way to tell the TRUE number of miles on these cars, unless very good service records were kept. The odometer is only 5 digits, and who knows if the odometer was working the whole time (mine wasn't). I still find it ironic that Mercedes would use 5-digit odometers on cars designed to last many hundred thousand miles, particularly these models, which were often used in taxi service. The 5-digit odometers would seem more appropriate to use on a Kia, or Ford Escort.

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1976 240D "Katja"

Thanks, I told him if it goes viral...and we see it on TV...we'll be rich and famous

Oh yeh this engine has the unscrew and pump and so bad you can't pump it. The engine in the car has a new black push down pump...so once we pull it will switch them over.

I thought it was also funny how those gauges only show 5 digits. But I also find it fun how on the w123 the speedo...is the worst design...guess that was fixed on the next model.

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Now, wasnt that fun? Sure, youre going to find issues, but you'll be driving it!

I just did the job you are looking at, pull and replace the motor in a w115 240d. This was the first car I have ever done that too and the job was pretty easy. Was your donor motor also a manual trans car? If so great, if not you will have to verify both the new and the old fly wheel's are neutrally balanced, at least that is what I was advised on this forum. Also have you got a service manual yet? If not PM me. Also I live in North San Diego county and have a parts car if you need some parts and can't locate maybe I can help you out.

Good luck!

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1972 280SE 4.5