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  #46  
Old 08-19-2011, 06:25 PM
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Well, I guess my idea was not so great after all.

The tension spring was about worn threw... defiantly not much life left in it. every thing else looked fine. Popped off the cam pulley, turned the cam to line up the timing mark.

Got everything lined up and back together turned it over and the cam shaft broke in 3 places.... I'm calling this engine scrap metal.

Oh well... pain in the ass that I spent all week working on it to rebuild the starter and get the A/c working put in the new glow plugs etc... but whatever. I'll transfer those parts over to my CD's engine.

Now just have to decide to part it out or put another engine in.

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  #47  
Old 08-19-2011, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ngarover View Post
Got everything lined up and back together turned it over and the cam shaft broke in 3 places....
That's the definition of epic fail.

Sometimes I wonder why I post on here................
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  #48  
Old 08-19-2011, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
That's the definition of epic fail.

Sometimes I wonder why I post on here................
seriously? I tried at least. I've spent the last 7 days combing for information as to what to try next. The only thing that came close to my issue required engine rebuild. One that cost more that than the whole cars worth. I gave it a shot and it broke. Oh well. No one had the answer. I have 500 bucks and some sweat in the car. I'll make that back on scrapping the body after I part everything else off her. I figured it was in good enough shape to at least try to put it on the road but live and learn.

The interiors absolutely perfect in this car, all the wood work looks new. All the windows work smooth, the sunroof is smooth and there is almost no rust on the car. Plenty left for parts.
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  #49  
Old 08-19-2011, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
If you proceed with this approach, based solely upon your data from the marks, you're probably going to get into the "epic fail" mode........whereby return is almost impossible.
You're going to get a reputation as a Nostradamus.

I'm guessing something really was hitting something once the cam was turned.
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  #50  
Old 08-19-2011, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ngarover View Post
seriously? I tried at least. I've spent the last 7 days combing for information as to what to try next. The only thing that came close to my issue required engine rebuild. One that cost more that than the whole cars worth. I gave it a shot and it broke. .
Why did you think that moving the cam that much on a running engine wouldn't cause some serious maladjustment? Did you turn it over by hand before using the starter?
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1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #51  
Old 08-19-2011, 06:58 PM
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Why did you think that moving the cam that much on a running engine wouldn't cause some serious maladjustment? Did you turn it over by hand before using the starter?
Well, then what's the point of the timing marks? If engine was so fubar that those factory timing marks where that far off then screw the engine. There was no way that as it was it was going to line up enough for those marks to be on and readable at the damper at the same time. So, something was messed up.

Brian posted in the thread all day, but never really gave any insight as to what could be the issue or any solution as to how to fix it. I really don't think he had a clue either.

I was tired of messing with it so I tried this. it failed, as things sometimes do, but you just move on to the next thing.
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  #52  
Old 08-19-2011, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by kerry View Post
You're going to get a reputation as a Nostradamus.

I'm guessing something really was hitting something once the cam was turned.
It was obvious that the cam mark was screwed up by a previous idiot.........the engine couldn't rotate in such a condition.

Adjusting it to the "proper" marks had to result in "epic fail". No other possibility.
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  #53  
Old 08-19-2011, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
It was obvious that the cam mark was screwed up by a previous idiot.........the engine couldn't rotate in such a condition.

Adjusting it to the "proper" marks had to result in "epic fail". No other possibility.
See, now that would have been a good comment to make before I tried to take it back where it should be. I was looking at it like maybe they had replaced the chain and not put in on correct, hence it being off and causing the knock. The chain itself looks new. IF I would have known it would bust the cam shaft trying to correct it to the factory position I obviously would not have tried that.

Again.. I'm new to this. So it's all a learning experience. I'll know better next time. Still does not explain how it got so screwed up in the first place. I'll know more one the engines out and I tear it down for scrap. I hope to have it ready to pull out by tomorrow afternoon, but I need a new engine lift so It will be a few days before I can actually get it out of the car.
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  #54  
Old 08-19-2011, 08:14 PM
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See, now that would have been a good comment to make before I tried to take it back where it should be. I was looking at it like maybe they had replaced the chain and not put in on correct, hence it being off and causing the knock. The chain itself looks new. IF I would have known it would bust the cam shaft trying to correct it to the factory position I obviously would not have tried that.

You decide to do various things to the engine without reading what was posted. Go back and read post #38. I explained in that post that the marks could not possibly be correct or the valves would hit the pistons.


You can then understand that the reverse is also the case. If you have a running engine and you rotate the camshaft by 90 degrees, the valves will definitely hit the pistons.

And, yet, you do it anyway.
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  #55  
Old 08-19-2011, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
It was obvious that the cam mark was screwed up by a previous idiot.........the engine couldn't rotate in such a condition.

Adjusting it to the "proper" marks had to result in "epic fail". No other possibility.
One another note, it's kind of annoying that you seem to get joy out of the failure rather that offering any constructive help on the situation in the first place. Are you always like this? If so, what's your point? Really kind of makes you look like an ass if you ask me.

Unlike you, if I know an answer to something, I try to share it and help others. I will bend over backward getting people back on the road if needed. I've been known to replace alternators, water pumps and even a starter for people in the parking lots of hotels just because they needed the help. No charge, just to give them a hand. I'll spend an entire weekend helping someone replace an engine just to do it. I enjoy working on cars, and enjoy learning new stuff about them. It's the whole reason I have so many of these MB's at this point, cause I think they are fun.

Anyways...blah blah blah on to the next project.
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  #56  
Old 08-19-2011, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ngarover View Post
IF I would have known it would bust the cam shaft trying to correct it to the factory position I obviously would not have tried that.
.

If you proceed with this approach, based solely upon your data from the marks, you're probably going to get into the "epic fail" mode........whereby return is almost impossible.



Brian wrote that. Seems like a pretty clear warning to me.
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1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #57  
Old 08-19-2011, 08:26 PM
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If you proceed with this approach, based solely upon your data from the marks, you're probably going to get into the "epic fail" mode........whereby return is almost impossible.



Brian wrote that. Seems like a pretty clear warning to me.
He also wrote

"The camshaft cannot be out by the amount indicated or the valves would hit the pistons on one of the strokes.

Apparently, some moron was involved with this engine and, therefore, all bets are off as to what was done.

You really don't have much choice but to procure the equipment to measure the chain via the 2mm valve lift method as indicted from the beginning of the procedure."

The first sentence pretty much states exactly what the engine was currently doing... so one would think, ok, so the engines knocking like a pistons hitting a valve, and it says that the timing being off by that much could cause that, so that might be the issue here and by fixing it maybe the knock will lessen or go away.

Without access to the tool described I did what I could to the a best guess and was wrong. Got it. I don't see anyone offering up a link to said tool in the first place... I did go into town and asked 4 different places for something like the gauge I needed. no go and no clue.

Theres an 83 sitting in a field about 2 miles from me. maybe I could pull off it's upper and try again.
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  #58  
Old 08-19-2011, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ngarover View Post
One another note, it's kind of annoying that you seem to get joy out of the failure rather that offering any constructive help on the situation in the first place. Are you always like this? If so, what's your point? Really kind of makes you look like an ass if you ask me.

Unlike you, if I know an answer to something, I try to share it and help others. I will bend over backward getting people back on the road if needed. I've been known to replace alternators, water pumps and even a starter for people in the parking lots of hotels just because they needed the help. No charge, just to give them a hand. I'll spend an entire weekend helping someone replace an engine just to do it. I enjoy working on cars, and enjoy learning new stuff about them. It's the whole reason I have so many of these MB's at this point, cause I think they are fun.

Anyways...blah blah blah on to the next project.

Actually, I'm the one who's annoyed.......at you.

I provide the best advice possible and you ignore it.

I suggest that the cam marks cannot be correct if the engine is running...........and you ignore it.

I suggest that you need to use the dial indicator method to verify your actual cam timing............and you ignore it.

I suggest that the problem with the noise is in the valvetrain............and you ignore it.

If you bother to look at my past on this forum, you'll find that I've helped hundreds of people.........but, unlike yourself, they actually read what is written and follow it. If they do not understand it.........they ask an additional question to clarify their knowledge. And, finally, they don't go off and do things that they have no knowledge or understanding.

Like I said previously, sometimes I wonder why I post here.
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  #59  
Old 08-19-2011, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Actually, I'm the one who's annoyed.......at you.

I provide the best advice possible and you ignore it.

I suggest that the cam marks cannot be correct if the engine is running...........and you ignore it.

I suggest that you need to use the dial indicator method to verify your actual cam timing............and you ignore it.

I suggest that the problem with the noise is in the valvetrain............and you ignore it.

If you bother to look at my past on this forum, you'll find that I've helped hundreds of people.........but, unlike yourself, they actually read what is written and follow it. If they do not understand it.........they ask an additional question to clarify their knowledge. And, finally, they don't go off and do things that they have no knowledge or understanding.

Like I said previously, sometimes I wonder why I post here.
Fine. Thanks for your help then.
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  #60  
Old 08-19-2011, 10:51 PM
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Do you have a Harbor Frieght? here is a dial indicator they sell.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-623.html

They also have this digital gauge.

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/calipers-dial-indicators-micrometers/1-inch-sae-metric-digital-indicator-93295.html

This is the magnetic base.

http://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html

This one has a clamping base
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/calipers-dial-indicators-micrometers/clamping-dial-indicator-93051.html

Charlie

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