The engine in your car and shared with the 87 300TD (wagon) is a 603.960. I use 603.96x to denote either engine. The 86-87 300SDL has a very similar 603.961. The 3.5 liter versions of the OM603 are the 603.970 and 603.971, at least in the US. The shorthand is 603.97x or just .97.

Some places concatenate the turbo designation into 300DT and 300TDT much to the chagrin of JimmyL. This shorthand is superfluous for US spec 300Ds and TDs since they all have turbos.

Many of us don't drive on public roads so EGR isn't necessary

Sixto
87 300D

Wheres the best place to get parts. I usually buy from autohauz but they send me like four wrong parts and they don't have certain parts I need. Please post links and that rusty guy. I keep hearing about him.

If your from Bastan, the cahstahts!
Its a one year engine configuration, its pretty rare compared to the millions of W123 300Ds. sold
Nothing more expensive than a cheap mercedes.
You can get a replacement head fo 7-1200. Will need to go to machine shop.
Cant wait to prove you wrong..... When is VStech going to send me that damn U tube

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

There is a buy parts link at the top of the page. They pay for this place to stay online, I recommend you consider atleast purchasing some parts from them. Or atleast entertain the idea.

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

There's nothing to prove. Power is made by fuel, not air. Stuff more air into the engine and you'll get... zero power gain. Note that the Finns don't just add larger turbos.

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Pics of the turbo







Pics of the car!!!!









Lol I posted all these pics on the wrong thread I hope I deleted them!!

Can't waited to work on her

******** has good prices and is a good vendor, but you need to know what part numbers you need, and you need to know what brands to NOT buy (never buy any Uro, APA, or FEQ brand parts - total garbage). Their online catalog may not be totally accurate either.

If you're serious about this car, the ONLY accurate method is to get the factory EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog), same exact thing the MB dealership parts guys use. It's a free online subscription (Windows PC required). Get the right part numbers, look those up, order based on p/n only. This will eliminate 99.44% of your "wrong" parts - after you learn how to use the EPC properly!!!

Rusty's prices may be slightly higher but you can get personal service, he'll look up what you need and help you out, worth the couple extra bucks if you need the assistance (buymbparts dot biz, email or call him, he can get OE dealer parts too which is not shown on his website).

One vendor to avoid like the plague is Adsitco, click here to read up on that joint.

Ok...my phone is hooked up to photo bucket so I can do lots of pics....should I start a new thread call it Restoring my 87 300d?? Put it here or diesel performance or can someone change the title so I can keep using this thread?

So what turbo is it im atching to buy parts!!

First 2 pictures show the EGR valve. Third picture shows the wastegate actuator rod for a Garrett so I'll say Garrett.

Sixto
87 300D

Ok weres the plate stamped on it that has the number. If I type the number in ebay I can get a complete rebuild kit. How do I know if the turbo is shot and need to be replace. Obvious broken fins etc. If the fins have been eating the side no go correct?

Sixto how do I delete the egr?

IIRC the identification tag is on the compressor backing plate. If it is, it's going to be a challenge to see it with the turbo installed.

Remove the hose from the air cleaner to the turbo. Hold the end of the shaft. Don't touch the impellers because they can and will cut you! There shouldn't be more than a hair's width of play side-to-side. There's shouldn't be any play fore-and-aft.

That's a basic test. There can be a bearing failure or internal cracks and other things you can't tell just by looking under the hood. Get it running and do some diagnostics like removing the turbo exhaust gas feed pipe to see if that's how oil is getting into the exhaust section.

Sixto
87 300D

If I tell you and you do it, you have to promise not to drive your car on public roads. I'll assume you agree

The most basic way to disable EGR is to disable the EGR vacuum actuator. Some owners have found ball bearings mysteriously lodged in the vacuum hose. That won't stop EGR if the EGR valve is stuck ajar. A more positive alternative is to put a solid plate between the EGR valve and the mixing pipe. As you see in some pictures, some go as far as physically removing the EGR valve and capping both the EGR source port in the turbo exhaust gas feed pipe and the mixing pipe port where the EGR valve attaches.

Since you're staying off public roads anyway, you might disable the ARV as well. That's the device beside the turbo air inlet. It diverts some of the pressurized charge from the compressor outlet to the compressor inlet to reduce the onset of charge pressure. I don't remember why MB thought this was a good idea. Anyway, some have found a similar mysterious ball bearing lodged in the ARV vacuum hose. You might confirm that the ARV plunger is properly seated. If you go that far, move the spring to the other side of the diaphragm so it forces the plunger closed rather than forces the plunger open. It'll be obvious when you open the ARV. Positively sealing the ARV is difficult because the compressor inlet port is an odd shape. You'd need to weld aluminum or retrofit a non-ARV compressor housing to fully plug the port.

Sixto
87 300D

Ok sixto I will be pm ing you when the time comes! Off road use only :-). Should I make a new thread in the performance or stay here?