I have never replaced window seals in any car before. As it is raining like Noah's Flood here, I will check for the ingress of moisture once it lets up, and if any wetness has made its way inside my 123, I will replace all the window seals. What tools are likely to be needed? Is it a big deal? What is involved?
Regards...

The seals at the base of the window typically clip onto the door on the outside and onto the door panel on the inside. Both are easily replaced without removing the window.

The window channel is typically one piece, and the window regulator and front channel (front door) or rear channel (rear door) usually need to be removed in order to pull it out. It is clipped at the top center, too on the W115 chassis doors. I expect the W123 to be similar, but I am sure someone else in the group can provide details.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

If anyone has any detailed info or advice on replacing the seals for the window channel please post them. I have a terrible whistle on the driver's side and I want to fix it. The door seal itself needs to be replaced (as it has cracked in several places).

This is the only "seal" issue I have on my car. I did have to replace the rear window seal as it had just started dripping (couple of drops on the inside of the trunk) after a hard rain. I bought the seal and had a good glass shop that I have done lots of business with replace it. They did a good job and fixed my small rear window leak. I was lucky because they told me it looked as though it had just started leaking and there was no rust in the body where the rear window goes.

So, anyone out there have any experience with this job and also know where to get the necessary parts? I know that fastlane has the door frame seal....but not sure if they have the other parts.
I want to pretty much rebuild the rubber seal at the base of the window, the door frame, and the inside channel where the window closes on once the window in rolled up.

thanks,
mike

Just recently replaced side window on mine after some piece of scum scratched a swastika on it.The job is a relatively easy one, I got my replacement parts from the local breakers.
First wind the window down fully,then remove interior panel care should be taken with this.All the clips will release with a slot head screwdriver, except the one behind the compartment.To release this wiggle and lift whole panel if it needs force it hasn't released yet.When the panel is out ,the inside rubber's clips can be gently removed with screwdriver.To get to the exterior one you must GENTLY prise off the chrome strip.Starting from one end lever screwdriver under strip and work along to other end.Then you can prise off clips on rubber seal.Removal of rubber around window is simple just pull it out it only goes down into door a couple of inches. Fitting is reversal of removal.
If you want to do a dry run get your parts from a local breaker who lets you recover your own bits.I hope this helps you out happy motoring. BEAR

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W123 '82 300D red 202,000 miles

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Front and rear windshields? Or door windows? Just noticed you didn't specify (I'm getting dotty, I think).

Windshields are not diffucut, but you run the risk of breaking the glass.

To remove, pry off all the trim -- there is a lock piece that goes in the center of the seal, makes it look as though it is two parts. Pry this out carefully, it is very hard to straighten if you bend it. Pry off the trim at the bottom -- this will be clipped to the body.

If the seal is really hard, and it will be if it is leaking, it is best to have someone hold the window through the door inside and out, and cut the seal through the loc slot with a heavy knife. Lift window out and peel off rubber. If it is in better shape, you MAY be able to pry the seal lip up and remove the glass that way, but I'd cut the old seal. Less chance of breaking the glass.

Clean glass and the body lip -- if there is any roughness or rust under the seal, it must be replaired and painted before attempting to re-install the glass, or the seal will continue to leak.

To install: Place glass on a support and install gasket and lock strip after spraying the seal down with silicone lubricant. Wrap some stout greased cord around the seal, leaving the ends hanging out. Place glass on body -- you will need an assistant to hold the glass in place -- and start the inner edge of the seal over the body flange BETWEEN the ends of the cord. Use the cord, by pulling it out of the slot in the gasket towards the interior to force the seal lip over the body flange. It helps to wrap the cord around twice, in case something goes wrong and you don't get the lip over the flange first time around. You can pull the cord out easily enough if all goes well.

I don't know if it makes any difference if you start at the top center or bottom center -- my brother has always started at the top, but that wasn't on MB windows.

Check for plugged sunroof drains, and the cowl drains at the corners of the firewall while you are in there, too -- they can clog and dump water on the floor also.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Dear psfred,

The question was regarding door window seals....not front or rear windshield/window seals. Well, at least that was my question. I'm not sure which seals Ducati was wondering about. Thanks for offering though.

Anyone else out there have experience or advice. I want to replace the window (the one you role up and down) channel seal with new stuff.....anyone know where to find the real deal?

thanks,
mike