Cant seem to bleed air after delivery valve seals - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

taylorsyn · #16 08-21-2011, 05:40 PM

Yes thank you, the battery is charged and hooked up to a 10amp battery charger while cranking. The starter is spinning fast enough just as fast as when it was last working.

The glow plugs are new, I just did them when I replaced the delivery valves. But just to make sure I tested there Ohm resistance and there all good. I also tested the glow plug relay. I used the following guide for that: http://www.dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm

Somehow I suspect when I first did this without a torque wrench I crushed the copper washers and now there not sealing correctly. Does anyone have any guesses?

pimpernell · #17 08-21-2011, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by taylorsyn

Yes thank you, the battery is charged and hooked up to a 10amp battery charger while cranking. The starter is spinning fast enough just as fast as when it was last working.

The glow plugs are new, I just did them when I replaced the delivery valves. But just to make sure I tested there Ohm resistance and there all good. I also tested the glow plug relay. I used the following guide for that: http://www.dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm

Somehow I suspect when I first did this without a torque wrench I crushed the copper washers and now there not sealing correctly. Does anyone have any guesses?

I did my delivery valves twice. A few posters on the board said it was not necessary to change out the crush washers, so the first time I did the job, I reused the old washers. Car started, but ran like crap. Prior to doing the job, the engine was a smooth as silk. I decided to do the job again, only this time changing out both the seals and crush washers, and the engine ran fine. It is imperative that you use a torque wrench and insure that you torque it to specks. This is a DIY posted by Parrot of Doom. Pay particular attention to the part about hand tightening the valve and rocking it back and forth as you screw it in. It helps to center the elements within the valve body. Good luck

OM606 engine (W210 E300D/TD) delivery valve seals

engatwork · #18 08-21-2011, 06:16 PM

Quote:

changing out both the seals and crush washers, and the engine ran fine. It is imperative that you use a torque wrench and insure that you torque it to specks. This is a DIY posted by Parrot of Doom. Pay particular attention to the part about hand tightening the valve and rocking it back and forth as you screw it in.

x2

Also, just out of curiosity did you pull the part that is marked as item 7b out when you did the job. They do not have to come out and if they are not installed in the correct orientation you will have issues. Ask me how I know

.

taylorsyn · #19 08-21-2011, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

x2

Also, just out of curiosity did you pull the part that is marked as item 7b out when you did the job. They do not have to come out and if they are not installed in the correct orientation you will have issues. Ask me how I know

.

In the PDF there is no part marked 7b, do you mean 7g? Because if so 7g is the pressure valve carrier and I did remove this! How do you put it back in the correct orientation? I put it back the way it went in with the groove side facing down just like the diagram. But its only a up or down rotation

engatwork · #20 08-21-2011, 08:03 PM

opps - sorry it is 7g.

I'm speaking for the 606 engine but if it is like that then I have some bad news. There is a "pin" that the slot on the side of 7g has to fit over. If it is put in and not aligned with the pin then it shears the pin off and you will have some issues that have to be repaired by an authorized Bosch injection shop.

I did one one time where I sheared the pin off. The car would run but idled rough and smoked a little. Took it to the injection shop and they were able to open up the side of the pump and there was enough pin left that they were able to force the pin back into position and re-install 7g properly. That was the only one that I had pulled out.

taylorsyn · #21 08-21-2011, 08:47 PM

Well mine is just a round piece of metal with no pin or slot just a groove on the bottom. I actually cranked the engine with the delivery valves off and checked and the plungers are all moving up and down as there supposed to. At least from what I can see.

engatwork · #22 08-21-2011, 08:53 PM

Quote:

I actually cranked the engine with the delivery valves off and checked and the plungers are all moving up and down as there supposed to.

hmmmm

Yea, I was not sure they were the same. I'm not sure doing what you did as stated above would have caused the issue you are having or not but I don't think it would have done it any good.

Have you tried torqueing them to the correct setting? I think this could also cause some issues.

taylorsyn · #23 08-21-2011, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

hmmmm

Yea, I was not sure they were the same. I'm not sure doing what you did as stated above would have caused the issue you are having or not but I don't think it would have done it any good.

Have you tried torqueing them to the correct setting? I think this could also cause some issues.

I dont see why this would of caused any issues I was just checking its operation there are round discs below 7g and they have these pins in the middle of them that move up and down with the engine/ip.

Yes I used a torque wrench!

whunter · #24 08-22-2011, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by taylorsyn

Just posting again because I am desperately trying to get my car working again.

Can reusing the copper crush washers make the car not start?

YES = massive internal leaking = failure to start and/or rough running..

The washers will NOT seal correctly the second time...

taylorsyn · #25 08-22-2011, 01:57 PM

Well that explains everything! The dealer does not stock this item strange enough

Diesel911 · #26 08-22-2011, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by taylorsyn

Yes thank you, the battery is charged and hooked up to a 10amp battery charger while cranking. The starter is spinning fast enough just as fast as when it was last working.

The glow plugs are new, I just did them when I replaced the delivery valves. But just to make sure I tested there Ohm resistance and there all good. I also tested the glow plug relay. I used the following guide for that: http://www.dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm

Somehow I suspect when I first did this without a torque wrench I crushed the copper washers and now there not sealing correctly. Does anyone have any guesses?

This is new info!
The Fuel Injection Pump Housing is Aluminum. Over torqueing can damage the Housing. It can also push the Elements down into the housing.
I cannot say if the above actually happend or not.

Diesel911 · #27 08-22-2011, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pimpernell

I did my delivery valves twice. A few posters on the board said it was not necessary to change out the crush washers, so the first time I did the job, I reused the old washers. Car started, but ran like crap. Prior to doing the job, the engine was a smooth as silk. I decided to do the job again, only this time changing out both the seals and crush washers, and the engine ran fine. It is imperative that you use a torque wrench and insure that you torque it to specks. This is a DIY posted by Parrot of Doom. Pay particular attention to the part about hand tightening the valve and rocking it back and forth as you screw it in. It helps to center the elements within the valve body. Good luck

OM606 engine (W210 E300D/TD) delivery valve seals

What I said is that he should be able to start even if he re-used the Crush Washers. I did not comment on how the Engine Would run with the re-used Crush Washers.

I also had assumed that the Crush Washers that were to be re-used (just to see if the Engine would start) had been torqued properly to begin with.

Apparently no Torque Wrench was used and that seems to have made a critical difference in his success.

whunter · #28 08-22-2011, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by taylorsyn

Well that explains everything! The dealer does not stock this item strange enough

Here are the seals for your engine

Fastlane: INJECTION PUMP DELIVERY VALVE SEAL... RUBBER O-RING
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=0179974148

Fastlane: SEAL RING, INJECTION PUMP DELIVERY VALVE (CRUSH WASHER)
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=0019973440

This procedure is CRITICAL.

To ensure that the seals of the delivery valve holders are correctly located.
#1. Tighten the delivery valve holder to 30 Nm and slacken.
#2. Once again tighten to 30 Nm and slacken.
#3. And tighten finally to 35 Nm.

"Slacken" in this case means to relax tension on the torque wrench...

Another view of the procedure is:

A#. Tighten to 30 Nm.
B#. Relax tension on the torque wrench.
C#. Tighten to 30 Nm.
D#. Relax tension on the torque wrench.
E#. Re-set the torque wrench to 35 Nm.
F#. Tighten to 35 Nm.

If you loosen the delivery valve once the procedure is started = the crush seal is junk and must be replaced with a new one again..

.

taylorsyn · #29 08-23-2011, 12:31 AM

Why thank you! I had the dealer order me the washers, they will be in the morning. Let you know how it goes!

taylorsyn · #30 08-24-2011, 05:24 PM

Well isn't that awesome I dropped part 7K behind the injection pump and cant retrive it with any of my magnets!!

Anyone out there got an extra pressure valve?