Yeah you could I was think more along the lines of aircraft components - I can't remember the name of the types of cables but you've got ones that you can push as well as pull... I think they are also used in production line automation... I'll look it up in a bit.

You could also mount a Mercedes-like looking knob under the dash just next to the hand brake release... make it look like it was meant to be there.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Teleflex.

Bingo! Well done.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Also choke cables on lawn mowers. If these are too short, hood release cables, especially on big old American cars for the longer ones.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

MB keys are cut in Texas. The price is about 18.00. The key is alot thicker than the hardware store ones and will be less likely to break in the lock.

I never saw that when I had an 85 300D

A few years ago they were still selling generic Choke Cables for Cars and Trucks that would be longer than a Law Mower Cable. Try eBay.
You can buy the components for Bicycle Cables including the outer Tubing/sheath.

So there is a lot of ways it could be done and a lot of improvements that could be made.

It would be nice to have the Electric Solenoid that someone suggested but I am not sure that the Trunk would actually pop open. On mine the Trunk Lid jus sits there it does not move up any.

That means if you released the switch the Solenoid would return the Latch to the locked position and you could not open the Trunk.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

[QUOTE=Army;2777982]Sorry to hear about the broken hip - nightmare injury...
[QUOTE]

Actually, it is not healing.
Apparently when the Ball of the Hip is Broken off the Blood Supply is cut off to it.
They Screwed (with 3 Screws) the Ball back to the rest of the Hip/Femur Bone but it was up to nature to restore the Blood Supply.

(Oddly from what I have read; even if the Blood Supply retuns in a couple of years it is possible for the Ball to die off anyway.)

And, in my case the Blood Supply did not return and the Ball is Dead.
At the end of Sep I am going for another operation to have an Artificial Hip put in.

(Because Artificial Hips can wear out in as little as 15 years I am about 5 years younger than they would like. In 15 years I will be 75 years old and may need another operation.
Anyway nothing I can do about it except try to follow the Drs orders.)

And, in my case the Blood Supply did not return and the Ball is Dead.
At the end of Sep I am going for another operation to have an Artificial Hip put in.

I like the Wooden T handle that some one suggested. That will be an easy mod to my existing setup and make it easier to pull the Cable.

On the left of the pic is where I am at now. On the Right of the pic is where I will end up at the end of September.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

[QUOTE=Diesel911;2778226][QUOTE=Army;2777982]Sorry to hear about the broken hip - nightmare injury...
Holy cow - can't they improve the life span of these components?

A 15 year life span wouldn't be bad for a part for a car - but for a human... hmmm I'm not impressed.

However, according to this web page it may not be as bad as you think

http://orthopedics.about.com/od/hipreplacementsurgery/f/How-Long-Do-Hip-Replacements-Last.htm

"One very large study found that 80% of hip replacements were functioning well after 15 years in the younger (less than 65) patients"

Lets hope you're in the 80% bracket.

Good luck in September.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

If someone wanted to do a nicer job:
It looks like what are called Truck Choke Conversion Kits are still available at the local Pep-Boys in the (Dorman) Help section. One of them was $11.
They have various kits with various Cable Lengths and other do dads.
I did not see the length of the Cable listed on the one I looked at?

The one in the pic is one I got from the internet and is more extensive than the ones I saw at Pep-Boys. It was listed as having a 5 foot Cable.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Perhaps those equipped with the said pull cable had the factory car alarms installed.

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

That is certainly the case with our '85 parts car. Has both the pull cable and the factory alarm system. Seems like this was briefly discussed some time ago, and that was the conclusion then.

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1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

My car has the factory alarm option. It's a 4/84 build date. It has the pull cable.

My friends new 85 cali car has the factory alarm. It also has the pull cable.

We've had to use both cars cables, as the factory alarm system locks you out of the trunk once you unplug the alarm relay.

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1981 300TD 4 speed manual
Euro bumpers, zender valance and skirts, H&R springs, billy HD's, leveled sls, real AMG Pentas 16x8 et11, vdo boost/egt gauges intergrated into ash tray, eurolights, led 3rd brake light

Which chassis number is that then?

(I'm not looking for the whole VIN - though it would help at the dealer - I'm looking for the second group chassis designation such as 123.130 <= I know it isn't fitted to a .130 though)

I've been looking on the Russian EPC for the part numbers for the official kit...

I'm at an ideal stage where I can fit this sort of thing...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

So I have updated my Pull Cable with a Sheathed Cable I got at Pepboys.
Over the course of 4 months I lost some of the Details such as how long the Cable is (I think it is 16 feet but I am not sure).

It streches from the Front Drives seat all the way back to the Trunk Lock.

I made a bracket to mount it under the Front Seat and I believe you may of may not need a longer Bolt to replace the one that holds down the seat.

I removed the Rear Sealt and routed the Cable through the Shock Absorber access area and under the Fuel Tank into the Trunk.

Attached Thumbnails

       

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel