Manual Pull Cable/Wire to open trunk, 123
 

Like many when I bought my Car it only came with the Valet Key. This means you cannot open the Trunk with a Key and must rely on the Central Locking System and Vacuum to open it.

(I have never gotten around to ordering a new Tumbler with both Master and Valet Keys from the Dealer and may never get around to doing that as long as my Ignition Lock Tumbler is OK.)
The above is reason enough to want to have another way to open the Trunk.

In the last several Months I have been having intermittent Vacuum Issues with the Door Locks to the point were if the Car sits for 1 hour the locks do not work.

I have also been trying to recover from a Broken Hip and have not had much interest in troubleshooting the Vacuum Problem.
So what I did was a rush job just to have some fictional manual way of unlocking my Trunk in the Event of a total loss of Vacuum so I could get at my Spare Tire and Tools in the Trunk.

After removing the Cover that goes over the linkages the operate the Trunk Lock I determined that pushing the Linkages towards the Right of the Car allowed you to press on the Trunk Lock Button and open the Trunk.

I drilled a single 1/8” hole; see 2nd pic blue arrow.

I ran stiff Steel wire through the Hole to the Linkage and twisted the Wire onto the Linkage but left it loose.

I made a loop to act as a Wire Guide on the Trunk Spring Bracket.
I routed the wire above the Fuel Tank (I had removed the Fuel Take Sheet Metal Cover several years ago and never put it back) and through the Speaker Hole (I removed the Speaker to do that).
I routed the wire under the Rear Deck and out the Right Side and mad a loop to pull with.

Not nice looking but it works.

As it turned out the Wire is stiff enough that if I pull on it I can go around by Myself and open the Trunk. This also means you need to pull the Wire to loosen it before you close the Trunk so it will lock.

I commend your creativity.

But why not just order a new master key from the dealer?

Thats a good safetly line. Why not go to the dealer and get the real key for the car?

IIRC 1985 model 300D's had these as standard. Love a good idea, maybe from this point somebody can refine the method.

The 1985 model had the trunk pull cable below the rear seat, close to the left side rear door.

[QUOTE=Zacharias;2777469]I commend your creativity.

But why not just order a new master key from the dealer?[/QUOTE]

Part of it is procrastination; part cost wise it is better go get the Ignition Lock Tumble with it and I do not need an Ignition Tumbler yet.

The Local Mercedes of Long Beach does not have good reviews on the internet so I have never been there.

Also apparently different Mercedes Dealers sell the Cut Keys and Tumbler set for different prices.

So we are back to lack of convince + unknow cost = procrastination.

The job took me less than 20 minutes and I had to find where I put the wire and the Drill Motor.

Since I was taking pics I decided to start the trouble shooting. So far know the IP Shutoff circuit is not the cause of the leak.

I have the Green with Red Strip (Climate Control) Tubing un-plugged and the Vacuum Source Plugged off.

If I go out and still have Vacuum to operate the locks it must be the Climate Control that has a leak but I have not tested it yet.

Will not go any further testing to day than to reconnect the Climate Control Tubing if it is not the problem.

My Euro 85 240D with a build date of 12/85 doesn't have it, I wonder if its a Euro thing, or probably none of the lowly 240s got the emergency trunk pull. ;)

I did almost exactly the same thing a few years ago. Used the same glavanized tie wire and twisted it oto the same spot. The pull only works when the trunk key is horizontal, when the vacuum lock also works. If you figure out how to have a pull with the key veritical, when vacuum locks do not work to unlock the trunk, LMK. I always leave my trunk lock in the vertical position for more security. It's too easy for thieves to smash your window, pull up on the door knob and have access to the trunk.

Well I am going to tuck the Wire under the Rear Deck Carpet so it cannot be seen.

I cannot turn my Trunk Lock at all because I have no Key so it always stays were it is.

(I removed the Trunk Tumbler assembly thinking I could go inside and re-pin the lock as I have done on some other Locks. But it is built like a Vault; no way I could see to take it apart. A new Trunk Tumbler Assembly with a generic coded Key is $165.)

Obviously the idea for the Manual Pull Cable is not new and infact I read about it here on the Forum several years ago (and I should have installed one back then but did not).
I just figured it needed some pictures.

I wonder what the parts for the Factory one for the 1985 costs.

Not as critical because I always try to fill up before my Tank gets 1/2 empty and the Car seldom goes further than a 10 mile trip; but how would someone get the cover open to fill the Fuel Tank if the Vacuum is not working?

I thought the filler flap was spring loaded to open, but some diagrams show an open and a close line and some people say they've got two lines for the filler door. My '83 only had a "close" line on the filler door: no vac on the close circuit = it sprung open. Years and VIN series may differ.

If your trunk is original, you should just be able to order a new key from the VIN, not a whole new tumbler. That may be what, $15-20? If they can cut a tumbler and a key, why not just a key? The ignition + key was around $100, I've heard it's higher now and your dealer may be pricier.

By "valet" you mean round head? The square is the master, the round is valet for all but trunk and glove box. Two squares probably means old master for doors, new ignition and maybe a busted trunk lock? Maybe try the valet in the glovebox and see what happens.

see the "I am so poor" thread.

My taxable income last year was less then 19k. This year it will be more.
But, besides that I have always lived like I was poor.

I just used my free knowledge of something to solve a problem for a little bit of Money. I already had everything I needed to do the job; so I did it.

Also on the surface my Car does not appear to be so bad but actually it is a Rust Bucket. I am not sure to what extent money should be invested in it. But, I do know that for now I need to keep it functional.

Motorcycle brake cable, a wooden pull handle, and a few hose clamps.

Nice job D-911

I forgotten about that fact. Those would be good parts to salvage and retrofit into older cars.


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Sorry to hear about the broken hip - nightmare injury...

...interesting fix for the trunk release. I do miss being able to reach down to the left hand side of the driver's seat and pull a lever like on my old Honda Civic.

I guess you need to have the wire come out on the passenger side of the car 'cos you can't push the wire.

You've got me thinking...

You could use a sheathed cable to solve that problem and loop it back to the driver side. Or use a solenoid to pull on it.