It can be a pain in the backside performing the simplest of things - I sympathise.

You are meant to check the fluid when it is warm - on a level surface - after wiping the dip stick (with extra special super expensive lint free yak hide from the Alps) several times when the engine is running and the transmission oil isn't foamy...

Have a look at this thread

Transmission Fluid Capacity (w/o draining TQ)

And scroll down to post #14 made by bobodaclown who's put in the best bit of information I've seen yet on the subject...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Ok this has got to be a major part of my original problem. I checked the fluid level after I drove it and let it sit for a bit...... It was over by a full empty to full line!!! It looks like the fluid was changed recently because itis very clean. I think I'm just gunn a change it and be safe. What kind of fluid and what is the proper amount?

Thanks in advance

-jimmy

Did you check it with the engine running? The engine is supposed to be running when you check it. From the 'let it sit for a bit' I get the impression the engine was not running.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

you are correct. i was unaware of this; i thought it was supposed to be turned off to get away from the "foaming of the fluid" that i have seen talked about. i will check it after my morning break after i take it for a drive.

thanks

-Jimmy

Sorry that is probably my fault - sometimes I get confused with negatives - (when they say no they mean yes etc) I've corrected my post above to when the engine IS running...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

no big deal haha. so i checked it when it was warm and running and it looked to be ok. kindof decieving tho because it did have a few bubbles showing.... its that foam again . hmmm i think i have the adjustment of the shift arm just about right. it is strange though how 2nd into 3rd gear revs a little higher than when it shifts 3rd to 4th.... you guys have this same situation?

You can fine tune the shift points with your foot on the accelerator pedal.
"Floor it" and it tends to rev out longer and hold gear longer.
"Ease off" the pedal and it tends to shift earlier.
This is assuming the transmission to throttle rod is set correct.
You may have to play around with the length of the rod to get it perfect, or at least where you're happy with it.

right now if i floor it, it has a very slight delay/flair shifting from 2-3 but 3-4 it shifts perfectly. i still feel so weird that this motor revs so high. even when its in the proper shifting point if you floor it, it revs out way higher than lets say a chevy V8 diesel.

I'd like to see it too. The .118 on my 1980 300TD sure didn't....

__________________


Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

That has more or less been cleared up

722.118 Automatic transmission rebuild (Monster DIY)

Merc 1979 posted it for us back on page 2



It isn't the bit circled! you can see the rod sticking out of the casing on the other side of the brake band piston housings.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

so when i went to make an adjustment on the screw behind the cap circled above, i unscrewed the cap and noticed a copper crush washer. unsccrewed it a little more and trans fluid started to come out. this is not the drain plug right? and why if this is just an adjustment screw, is there fluid coming out of there?

You only need to unscrew the end bit (end cap). Not the whole thing. You may need to use two spanners to prevent the whole thing turning when you remove the end cap.
This will expose the adjusting screw. Use a large flat blade screwdriver for the adjusting screw.
Best to make small adjustments at a time. Say a quarter of a turn.

How did you go??
Did you figure it out?

Good luck getting a large flat blade in there, they barely left any clearance to get anything in there for the adjustment.
I had to use a flat head socket and slowly turn it with vise grips. I'd love to hear if anyone else has a better method for this adjustment.