Alright guys time to diagnose so I disconnected the kick down switch and there was no difference.
Then I did the following:
Disconnected the Bowden rod at the valve cover no throttle lol then took a closer look with the air filter housing off. I found that that the Bowden cable is attached to the other side of the throttle linkage that needs to remain intact. So with the Bowden cable disconnected, the car shifted really nicely under normal acceleration. If I put the pedal to the floor, between shifts it would flair till I let off.

Ath this point based on the comments above' should I shorted the Bowden cable and "tune" till suitable for me?

Thanks again for the great input

-Jimmy

Leave the bowden cable disconnected and unhook the vacuum to the modulator. If this stiffens up the shift and gets rid of the flare, then reconnect and adjust the bowden cable and monitor the vacuum levels to the modulator at various throttle positions and report back the results.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

My trans does not have a vacuum modulator. It is all electronic.... Major surprise upon my inspection. I'll adjust the Bowden rod in the am and report back

Should be on the passenger side rear.

__________________
Jesse.
'80 300sd modded everything begging for more fuel.
'98 f-250 psd, d60 elocker front, intake, exhaust, dp tuner F5 etc..
'70 f-250
'83 242 Volvo project
'66 volvo amazon
'10 fuso FE-180 service truck, welder, compressor, 3500lb crane, oil tanks, etc...

So you are saying you have a 722.118 with a "Bowden rod"? (Terrible expression but I must go with the flow!)

Would you take a photograph of that for me please?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

You may have a mechanical modulator like the one circled in this pic.
You can unscrew the end and inside is a screw to adjust firmness of shifts.
Screw in to firm up shifts. No vacuum to worry about. Bonus
The transmission rod is for adjusting shift points.
Longer to shift earlier, Shorter to shift later.
or is it the other way around, can't remember.

Merc79

That's exactly what mine looks like. I'll adjust the shift rod and let yall know how it goes.

Subiracer06 and Merc 1979...

I'm back!

Are you guys certain you've got 722.118s?

I'm trying to get a load of information about transmissions that were fitted to diesel engines and I thought the 722.118 didn't have the rod connection to the throttle.

In the picture I posted previously the transmission in the fore ground is a 722.120

and the .118 is behind it...



But if you're saying that you've got .118s that have the rod connection like this one (see the bit sticking out just above the kick down solenoid to the right of the smaller brake band piston cover)



Then - well - ermmmm - I don't know what to say!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Army
Yes definitely 722.118. On a 03/1979 300D W123.130 N/A sedan with rear SLS.
Transmission number 722118-02-047131
It has the transmission to throttle rod, and non-vacuum modulator.
cheers

Alright!!! Success))

Started out by adjusting the shift rod tighter, and it made it shift way too high Rpms. Next tried a drastic change of lengthening it 1.5 times what it was. Ended up shifting perfectly for me! Thank u for all the input u guys have given me.

After I adjusted the the cable today, I changed the water pump, thermostat, hose under the thermostat, fuel filter, fuel pre filter, air filter, and power steering pump O-ring. Thing runs like a champ now!!!!

Very good

Thanks for getting back with that...

Like I said - I don't know what to say!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Since my phone will not cooperate with copy/paste of the URL....
The exact serial is 722 118 123 270 0701038990
Once I get on my pc I'll post the pic

Thanks very much for your help with the information.

I think 1980 was the magic year when the 722.118 changed... if I get to the bottom of this I'll post back here.

@subiracer06 - I'm glad to see you've fixed the problem

I'm sorry not to have posted this link before - I got a bit rapped up in the shock of hearing about a 722.118 with a rod - here's some shift point data for you

Has anyone got 722.XXX diesel engined transmission shift point data?

Follow the link in this thread to a whole load of information on benzworld...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Another thing to check on these transmissions is the bushing on the transmission rod.(circled in pic) The one on my vehicle had completely disintegrated and was missing. This caused it to shift way too early.
Glad to hear you got yours sorted.

alright so i may have found another issue. just for verification, i double checked the trans oil level the other day when it was cold, and found that the oil is double the heighth of the full level. the previous owner had said that he just had the oil chaged..... the oil was red and looked new, but this was rather alarming. i will check it again when it is warm, but what kind of levels should i be expecting when the trans is cold?