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#1
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84 300d A/C oil charge
I am going to be replacing the seized AC compressor on my 84 300d this weekend, and while I am at it the expansion valve, the drier, and one of the rubber lines are going to be replaced as well. I plan to flush the entire system and I have read the numerous posts about recharging the system with 8 oz of oil. I have BG Frdgiquiet, but my question is where to spead the oil throughout the system and in what amounts. I know that the drier should receive several ounces and so should the compressor (which was shipped without oil to my knowledge), but the exact amounts and in what locations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for any help and advice on the project!
glidehm |
#2
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RE: 84 300d AC oil charge
I apologize that I forgot to ask one more question. It will probably be a few days before I can take the car to get the AC system charged with R-12, is this a problem? If the oil should be circulated first before having the system charged, which switch on the AC system has to jumped in order to get the compressor to kick on. Thanks again!
glidehm |
#3
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Do Not Expose Your NEW Receiver/Dryer to Atmosphere!
Wait until "Just Before",You have the system "Vacuumed Down" !
[The desiccant material (Just like the little packets you find in foods,etc.,etc.) in the R/D will absorb up to it's limit in moisture from the air in a short period of time.] You're NOT gonna "Circulate" any OIL without Refrigerant. Sequence SHOULD BE: 1.Flush Everything, EXCEPT the Compressor (You'd "ROTATE" the Old Oil out of it BY HAND.) [Called Draining] 2.Install New (Or Old) parts with the oil in them. 3.Vacuum down the closed system. 4.Pressurize the System with Nitrogen (An Inert Gas) to check for leaks. 5.Vacuum the System,AGAIN,and leave it for a couple of Hours. VACUUMED. 6. Fill with the correct amount of Refrigerant BY WEIGHT! CALL B.G. and MAKE SURE you've got the correct Frigi-Quiet for your application! [Hint: ask them if you can use ONLY/Exclusively Frigi-Quiet for the Only Lubricant ,OR do you have to mix it with a Conventional Lubricant ALSO?] (800) 961-6228 http://www.bgprod.com/products/climatecontrol.html
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 Last edited by compress ignite; 09-01-2011 at 11:43 PM. |
#4
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I appreciate the response compress ignite. Maybe I should clarify my situation in order to get a more detailed answer. I will be changing these parts on Saturday. It may be up to a week before the car is taken to my Indy to have the system charged. Should I install all off the parts excect for the new drier on Saturday and leave the old one in place until the day of taking it to the shop so that the drier doesnt absorb its limit in moisture while sitting for a week? I am going to close the system back up when I am done on Saturday but I have no way of pulling a vacuum and recharging the system until I get more time off work. Also, would you add four ounces into the compressor after it is "drained" and four ounces into the new drier, or would you spread the 8 ounces throughout the compressor, the drier, and the lines that are opened at the expansion valve? I will call BG today and see if the Fridiquiet that I have can be used by itself or it needs to be mixed with a conventional lubricant. Thanks for the information so far!
glidehm |
#5
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Ideally, do all your work, distributing the 8 oz. throughout the system and then install the new r/d at the very last and then immediately evacuate and charge.
From what you describe, you might think about getting all your work done EXCEPT r/d installation. Seal off the lines that go to the r/d. You could then even bolt the new r/d in place but leave the caps on it. THEN just before going to the shop for evac and charge, unseal lines and r/d and connect. Good luck, Larry |
#6
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The FSM has different amounts when replacing different components,
Compressor 90 cc Condensor 50 cc Evaporator 70 cc R/D 40 cc Since you're not opening all those up, how you divvy it up is up to you. I'd say 1/3 to 1/2 in the compressor, maybe 1/4 in the R/D, and the remainder into whatever component/line you can get it to flow in to. I did this job a while back and did a DIY. Before or while diving in, consider the condition of your other belts. Think about getting a 19 mm ratcheting wrench. (There's a cool set from Craftsman open and box ratchet combo). Here's my thread. I think it's worth a look: Installing a CompressorWorks R4 into a W123 |
#7
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If I flush every part of the system, do these partial amounts still apply? I was under the impression that if the system is flushed that you had to replace all of the oil in the sytem like it was new?
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#8
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They add up to 250 cc; which translates to 8.45 oz. So the 8 oz after a flush is fine, you are, in effect, replacing it "like new".
Breaking up the amounts in these recommended locations serves as a guide on how much to replace if a single component is replaced in isolation. It's M-B's recommendation based on how much oil is normally retained in the old removed component and helps mitigate the possibility of too much or too little oil in the sytem after a repair. It's all going to get re-distributed as the system works and the R-12 carries it around anyway, so a little extra in one area or a bit less in another is not critical. Try to get the 8 oz in, make sure the compressor is lubed and rotated. Put some in the R/D, put some in the other components. If you're close to 8 oz in the whole system after a flush, it should be okay. |
#9
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The chart applies to component replacement. When complete flush, distribute 8 oz.
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