It wasn't that thread, but the idea is the same. As in "there's no need to chase down an esoteric "MB only" primer pump when they're available elsewhere, if you know what to ask for..."

Maint. vs Linkage adjustment.

When the Linkage was sloppy on my Car it was slow accelerating off the line (in my case scary slow) but after it built up speed it could easily keep up on the Freeway.

If the Filters (or other Fuel Starvation issues) are plugged the faster try to go the more you should notice the loss of power.

If it is a Valve Adjustment issue (valves clearances too tight) the loss of power should show up or show up more after the Engine is up to temperature.

If it is a lack of Turbo Boost causes the loss of power it is going to show up after about 2,000 rpms.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'm going to attack the general maintenance items first (spin-on fuel filter is getting done tomorrow morning followed by a valve adjustment when I am able to find a valve cover gasket {hopefully NAPA} ) and then attack the other stuff like coolant flush and brake/PS fluid flushes and oil change. My buddy owns a shop and it'd be really super nice to be able to change the coolant using his stuff

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Java Developer/Linux SysAdmin

Current:
*1984 300D ~200K,1989 MR2 250K, 2012 Ford Fusion 4.5K (fiance's car to replace the uber-unsafe cavalier)
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Past: 1998 Chevy Cavalier ,2005 Saab 9-3 2.0T, 1996 Mazda Protege, 1974 Porsche 914 2.0, 1997 Land Rover Discovery 4.0L/5Speed, 1995 Jeep Wrangler

If your buddy owns a shop, . . . use his rack, get under the car and change all fluids from bumper to bumper. Don't forget to use the clear coolant, it keeps the system running anywhere from 4 - 10 degrees cooler . . . also flush out the heater system of the green stuff by having the heater going (engine idling) while running the water through the system. Don't forget to disconnect the heater hose at the firewall that goes through the thermostat housing, and fill from the uphill end (where it connects at the firewall) to insure there's no air in the lines.

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

IF you can't locate a valve cover gasket, you can ahem... us the old one IF you put a little of that non harding gasket sealer on it... just saying.... IF nothing else it will get you by until a new one shows up...

What clear coolant are you all talking about? I have about four gallons of Dex-cool, none of the green stuff, and I think the mercedes coolant is red-ish?

Also, the shop buddy is looking at the car for the wheel bearing and the flex discs and I hope he'll help with the engine oil and coolant flush.

__________________
Java Developer/Linux SysAdmin

Current:
*1984 300D ~200K,1989 MR2 250K, 2012 Ford Fusion 4.5K (fiance's car to replace the uber-unsafe cavalier)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Past: 1998 Chevy Cavalier ,2005 Saab 9-3 2.0T, 1996 Mazda Protege, 1974 Porsche 914 2.0, 1997 Land Rover Discovery 4.0L/5Speed, 1995 Jeep Wrangler

You mean Death Cool????

You should be using the G-05 coolant. It is a golden color, and Zerex does make it. IT does cost $16 per gallon here in TX.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K